Coyote SN95

Discussion in 'Build Ups & Projects' started by neverenuff, Nov 23, 2015.

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  1. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Well three motors later and it's time for something newer, not pushrod and not an LS, it's time for a semi-budget friendly coyote swap.
     
  2. wmfateam

    wmfateam Active Member

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    Are you going the route of an F150 coyote and piecing it together or dropping the dough and going crate?
    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
     
  3. Mustanger

    Mustanger Well-Known Member

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    Very interested in following this!!! Post as often as you can please....
     
  4. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Sorry for the late reply, busy with holiday things, I'm going the F150 route, same cylinder heads, crankshaft, intake manifold. I plan on changing intake cams, front timing cover and exhaust manifolds.
     
  5. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Will do MUSTANGER! Very excited about this as I've been dreaming about it since the introduction of the coyote and been planning it for over a year now; full UPR front suspension, k-member, coil-overs, tubular A-arms.
     
  6. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    [​IMG]
    A little about the car... I've had it for 8 years now, many cars bought and sold but I still kept it, even sold my 2008 GT to help with all the bills for the swap, it is pricey!;)
     
  7. Mrstangerbanger

    Mrstangerbanger Well-Known Member

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    Clean car. I am also going the ford truck motor swap soon.
     
  8. BMAC96GT

    BMAC96GT Active Member

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    Looking forward to seeing this. I'm going back and forth between coyote swapping mine, or just throwing a vortech on it and being happy for a while
     
  9. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Well it isn't the best looking engine as of right now, but it is a start....
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  10. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    SN95 4.6 2V to 2012 coyote swap

    First things first, this is a post build write-up- still only 90% done, with my job and and working till the mid night hours trying to get all the bugs worked out, there just wasn't enough time to work, swap, and write a build until now. I've done hours of research and have watched just about every youtube video dealing with this swap. Keep in mind mine was semi-budget friendly and you can go mild to wild! Here is the long and short of the parts list (please chime in if you have any good advice or parts to use instead).

    Major Items:
    2012 F150 Coyote engine w/50k- used for $1500

    FRPP Coyote Engine Control pack P/N: M-6017-504V $1500

    Power By the Hour Coyote Swap Accessory Bracket kit- $599 (this requires the alternator, 96-10 or 2011 up mounted backwards and retains factory AC and power steering locations.)

    Engine Wiring Harness- if you purchase a used engine- P/N :BU5Z-12A581-GB (double check engine years, they changed the Ti-VCT plugs) $205

    Factory / aftermarket 4.6 motor mounts will work - $100-$150

    4.6 bellhousing Spacer Plate (Manual) P/N:
    M-7007-A
    $35

    4.6 Starter - Use the smaller 4.6 starter to clear the headers, the factory coyote unit is larger in diameter

    New style timing cover P/N: BR3Z6019G (this is a must for Power By the Hour Kit) $97

    BBK Longtube headers P/N 1634 (a few brands to choose from or use factory) $570-$750

    BBK swap X-pipe (again choose your poison, I choose the catted version) $250-480

    Battery relocation kit (this is custom to you or your shop to install, I have a rear mounted starter solenoid, On/Off kill switch behind my license plate, you might get away with a small battery in factory location or mounting it in fender) $300

    8-bolt flywheel (I found a good deal on a Fidanza aluminum piece, any 99-04 8 bolt one will do) Do not use 2011 and up 8 bolt flywheel with 96-04 transmission, I'm told it is thicker.

    Aftermarket 1999-04 Clutch (array of clutches out there but stock will not hold up)

    Fuel Pressure regulator - Many choices as long as it goes to 55 PSI, I purchased the Aeromotive piece P/N: AMV 13129 Return Style - Must use ORB fittings! $122Fuel fittings / EFI braided hose (I connected to the factory return style system, still pricey and tedious) PM me if you have questions on this. Multiple trips to the local parts store, I have all part numbers. $150

    Fuel pump - My personal choice is a USA made Walboro 255 unit, this is the minimum lph required $110

    Billet Fuel Pedal bracket $80 (Scram Speed)

    Ford Racing Speed-Dial ( this is a must for 96-98 VSS transmissions, it is a factory fix to tell the new coyote computer that your car is moving, however I believe you can wire 99-up OSS transmissions directly to the ECU)

    Ford Racing Plug Pins (two) This enables you to re-pin the factory 50-Way "Key C" harness, not too difficult, I will explain in the write-up. Call FORD RACING they shipped them free-of charge.

    Factory Mustang intake camshafts, F150 ones are good too, and will save you $$$ on the factory torque to yield hardware.
    P/N: Left - BR3Z-6250-F / Right- BR3Z-6250-E - Around $100 piece

    New hardware(12) for camshaft phasers - torque-to-yield and do not recommend reusing

    New hardware for camshaft caps - again reusing is not recommended

    Coyote heater hoses - right + left $50 a piece

    Various shims and spacers, my set-up includes Maximum Motorsports K-member spacers, Scram Speed motor mount spacers, and a Stifflers transmission cross member

    There is plenty more to come.......






     
  11. BMAC96GT

    BMAC96GT Active Member

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    This is awesome. Great job. I've done a lot of research on the swap as well, so Im interested to see this! Two things...#1: You got a hell of a deal on that engine #2: I had no clue the FRPP engine control pack was that freakin expensive?
     
  12. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    BMAC96GT, Yes it is costly, I did a cost comparison on a built supercharged 4.6 vs stock coyote and it is almost the same but there is something to be said about buying OEM parts directly from FORD off the shelf - our cars are nearing the 20 year mark! This a great engine, it revs deep into the factory redline, gobs of torque (just installed 3.73's) will spin the tires in third, and this is my daily driver that is 1/3 of the cost as a newer GT.
     
  13. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Battery Relocation, this should be your first step in a swap or even taking 40+ pounds out of the engine bay. I bought the Moroso sealed box, Quick Car kill switch and starter solenoid so I do not have a constant hot 0 gauge wire running through the vehicle.
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  14. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Here is a close-up of the cam phasers, the three bolts in the middle are the torque to yield type and you have to remove all 12 to swap the cams, as well as all 40 camshaft cap bolts , yes counting the crankshaft bolt, I purchased 53 ARP bolts which are worth their weight in gold.
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  15. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Coyote's are very similar to the 4.6, except all sensors are located in the rear.
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  16. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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  17. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    While I had the timing cover off, I painted it flat black. I haven't seen this on any new 5.0 engines yet and it matches the accessory kit and the valve covers. Circled is the mount you need to grind down flush with the timing cover for the Power By the Hour kit. This is a must as the belt can rub against any metal left here.
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  18. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Not too bad seeing as this engine came from Montreal Canada, everything steel on this engine was rusted! I even got a slight refund for the exhaust manifolds because they were in such bad shape. Here I started assembling the Power By the Hour accessory brackets.
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  19. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Here is the aluminum flywheel and RAM clutch installed...notice the MMR head cooling mod right above the top two transmission mount bolts, supposedly these engines have a #8 cylinder cooling problem.
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  20. neverenuff

    neverenuff Active Member

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    Do NOT forget this ring when you are installing the engine, it is similar to the 4.6, however this sits between the flywheel and the crankshaft as it is the crankshaft sensor ring P/N BR3Z-12A227-A. I found this out the hard way after I installed the headers, engine, transmission, wired it all up and... nothing, all for a $20 piece- lesson learned.
     
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