Coyote swap in 95 gt

95Five0

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I have a clean low milage 95 Gt . Looking into coyote swapping car. For the money making power any other way doesn't make any sense. Want to do it as cheap as possable for now . I'm thinking of doing an f150 coyote and a ford performace controle pack and a t45 just to get it up and running. From what I read people say it is much easier to swap into a 96-98 car. I know the modular engine cars engine mounts would be a more direct swap, the t45 from 96-98 would mate with coyote, and I plan on running a tube crossmember Can someone tell me what else would be different that would make this job harder on a 95. This would be my first swap and will take me a while. Please dumb down your answer for me so I can understand lol

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96blak54

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Lwarrior1016 and white95 would be your goto info source. They did the swaps and went as far as multiple alternative engine management units. I do believe they are happy with the Holley engine management. They will probably chime in here soon, give them a few days
 

duh09

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There are a handful of threads those fellas have put together with a TON of information on the swap.

Problem with a coyote swap, there is no great way to do it cheaply. A T45 barely survives behind a 4V Cobra, it will not survive long behind a Coyote. It is easier to start with a 4.6L because a lot of the 4.6L parts can transfer over that you'd have to source starting with a 302 car.

You will need a gameplan for accessory brackets. Coyotes have electric P/S so you'll have to figure out a solution for P/S.

What's your power goals and budget?
 
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95Five0

95Five0

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I am still at the brain storming part of this. My goals are 400whp street car. Budgit I was hoping to keep it around $6500. I just bought a dual sport motorcycle partiality to get me ready for this car to be down for a while. I need something to ride while building this thing. Again this is my first swap so this may take me a while. I want this to go the easiest way possable but I can already see a lot of swear words in my future.
 

Snorky

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I am still at the brain storming part of this. My goals are 400whp street car. Budgit I was hoping to keep it around $6500. I just bought a dual sport motorcycle partiality to get me ready for this car to be down for a while. I need something to ride while building this thing. Again this is my first swap so this may take me a while. I want this to go the easiest way possable but I can already see a lot of swear words in my future.
Can you fabricate/weld?
 
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95Five0

95Five0

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Fabricate no. Weld i can make it stick just not pretty
 

duh09

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Go through this thread, do a little digging on white's build thread and you can see a bit of the work involved and parts needed.


A Coyote swap can be pretty much bolt-in and pain-free if you're willing to spend the money. Doing it on a budget makes it a bit more difficult.
 
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95Five0

95Five0

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Lol I guess your the man I want to talk to. Thanks for coming in. How much is this realisticly going to cost me. I'm sitting down
 

white95

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It will cost your proposed $6500 budget. This is not unrealistic but you will need to get creative. I spend triple+ that but I am also irresponsible (retarded)


Engine management

@lwarrior1016 has his running on a stock ECU and that has the potential to save you a significant amount of money. I’ve invested nearly $4k in Holley stuff alone.

The T45

It will work and if you can restrain yourself from making 7,500 rpm shifts, it will last you awhile. William (lwarrior1016) went to the track with his T45, which was internally upgraded, and it lived. Talk to him about that. You could also do the same thing with a TR3650. Either way, plan to update to a TKO of some sort or T56.

K-member

I am a Maximum Motorsports fan but you can get by with BMR (cheapest but not junk) or Griggs k-members. I’ll speak in terms of MM since that’s what I know. My car is a ‘95 and I bought their K-member for 94-95 with an engine swap. The caveat to this was needing to run their control arms and coil-overs. The BMR allows the use of coil springs, I believe. Again, ask William. He runs one.

The rest is up to you. Which headers, what fuel system, intake, etc. Buying used parts helps.

You can find Gen 1 and 2 engines for under $3k depending on mileage, etc. suggest you stick with those generations. Truck engines are cheaper and don’t have many differences compared to the Mustang. Pretty sure Will went mid-11’s with his Gen 1 engine and bolt ons.

Throw stuff you find in here and we will help spend your money, I mean, suggest a good path.
 
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95Five0

95Five0

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Lol thanks for the info. Lot.of good deals on gen 1 truck motors . I think I'm going to put my current drive line of fb soon to try and gain some money towards tbis project . Car only has 46k miles . Someone may like the fact they can here it run and drive before I pull it out.

Dumb question . If I go control pack . I'm assuming the ccrm will not longer be needed to control electic fans ?
 

white95

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Happy to help. I love Coyote swaps!! Seeing you start yours may inspire me to get back to work on mine.

Honestly, there is a guy on Facebook that builds harnesses to keep all of the stock CCRM stuff intact. Lethal Nate Automative Performance & Wiring, I believe.

We removed our CCRM’s and use relays for the AC and standalone engine fan controllers with Delta PAG fans.
 
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95Five0

95Five0

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Thank you for all the info . I'm sure I'll be bothering the pissed out of you again at some point .
 

lwarrior1016

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Hey there, I’m here too!

I’ll try to cover all this, we are bound to miss something.

For ecu, control pack is easy. I have run mine on megasquirt, Holley, and a stock computer. I like the stock computer because of its driving manners, but Holley is probably the easiest to set up. If you get a stock ecu from the appropriate year mustang (needs to match the engine generation), then you have to send it out and get the pats deleted. You will also have to build the wiring harness that goes to a relay box for things such as injectors, coils, oxygen sensors, and so on.

Josef is spot on with the transmission stuff. I ran the t45 and it did just fine at 450 rwhp, shifting at 7800 rpm. I used to launch the car at 6-7k rpm on slicks. However, my transmission was built. I had everything I could inside that transmission except cryo treated gears and 26 spline input shaft. I’ve since gone to a 6r80 automatic.

K-member, yes I’ve got a BMR k member. I ran it with their control arms and later went to maximum Motorsports control arms. I really don’t have any complaints about their k member. They do have an option to use factory arms and perches to keep the coil springs.

Headers, you have options. I ran custom headers that I cobbled together from 2v headers and coyote flanges, then I had bbk, now I’ve got ultimate headers. Get whatever works in your budget. They all suck to install lol. But they all seem to do about the same. I made no different power going from 1-3/4 up to 1-7/8.

If I can steer you any one way, I’d say find a gen 1 truck engine. Preferably a 13-14 model, there were some changes to the cylinder heads. Mine made 436 rwhp with stock mustang cams, long tubes, and gen 3 intake manifold. In my opinion, the gen 1 engines idle better, and they are easier to tune. I later swapped mine to a gen 2 and I regret it.

Gen 2 engines have better connecting rods and cylinder heads, so if you buy one of those, swap in the gen 1 cams and use a gen 1 computer. So I guess I’d say get a 15-17 f150 engine, gen 1 mustang cams, and a gen 1 phaser/timing set.

Hope this all helps
 
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95Five0

95Five0

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The only part of this I'm worried about is the wiring. Power by the hour looks like they make it simple with there control pack but that comes with a price. I know I'll get the motor and trans in the car .Making it run and run correctly i want to to be easy as possable. I will pay more for plug and play within reason. From what I'm seeing there kit is 90 percent plug and play execpt for tapping into ignition and a few other things
 

lwarrior1016

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The only part of this I'm worried about is the wiring. Power by the hour looks like they make it simple with there control pack but that comes with a price. I know I'll get the motor and trans in the car .Making it run and run correctly i want to to be easy as possable. I will pay more for plug and play within reason. From what I'm seeing there kit is 90 percent plug and play execpt for tapping into ignition and a few other things
Power by the hour is a great source for coyote swap stuff. I think you’re on the right thought process as far as wiring is concerned. If you’re not proficient with wiring schematics and understanding exactly how circuits work, I would go with their control pack or a Holley terminator x max.
 

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