Current Issues

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KillNThrill24, Feb 24, 2014.

  1. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    Put insurance back on it today and made it my daily already. And I forgot all the issues it had with it when I pulled insurance and parked it.

    The biggest ones are:

    Battery drain. Something is causing my brand new battery to die within a few hours (quite literally actually). I have my buddies battery in it right now since he's not driving his yet. It's the biggest and most annoying problem currently. Voltage gauge is past halfway but not quite 3/4 so I know the voltage is there.

    Rear end grind? It almost sounds like a grinding when I back out of a parking spot or turn into a parking spot or driveway. Not sure if that's normal or.... **** Royal Purple btw. I hate that crap and as soon as I get some money it's getting drained and Redline is going back in it. It's a 31 spline Auburn pro diff so I'm really not sure if it's normal or not. I'm newer to the rear end game

    And finally the heat. Yeah most people say "because racecar" well I daily my racecar so the heat is essential. I blew the heater core last summer and replaced it back last fall with one from Autozone. Ever since then the heat takes a century to work. For instance I left my buddies tonight and drove about 20min to Sheetz (to charge the battery) and then another 10min home and it finally started working on the way home from Sheetz. Temp gauge finally got to just below middle during that time. Not sure if it's the t-stat crapping out on me or what. I do not remember if I replaced it or not last fall.

    Think that's it for the moment, it leaks a good amount of oil but I already found out it's leaking from the front main. And everything else that's wrong with it I know how to fix. Damn racecars doesn't matter how much money you put into them they are still filled with issues. Fugg it :)
     
  2. DeepList

    DeepList Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    9,692
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2013
    Location:
    Auburn, IN
    Battery Drain: Start pulling fuses and put a voltmeter across them to see which circuit is causing the drain to narrow it down.

    Rear End Noise: Auburn makes good diffs. (The factory is right down the road from my house and I used to work security there.) The noise is actually pretty normal for those and most noticeable when you're making a sharp turn at a low speed. Don't worry about it. If you want, put some friction modifier in there.

    Heat: It shouldn't take that long to heat up. The thermostat may be stuck open. It's an easy fix and a cheap part. No harm in changing it out to see what happens.
     
  3. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    I definitely did not think about pulling the fuses to check voltage. Awesome idea there

    The diff is great no denying that, but that's exactly when it seems to make noise. It got really bad when I first installed the rear end so I added the only modifier I could find at autozone (won't use that shit again I'll be getting FRPP). Thing handles launches like a champ I couldn't be happier with it. And I remember you telling me about them being right down the road and working there, small world man but that's pretty cool

    Yeah I was thinking it was getting stuck open as well. Like I said I really can't remember if I replaced it or not but no matter I've dropped in brand new stats and ripped them out right away because they were faulty. Probably the best place to start

    Thanks Charles I appreciate the insight
     
  4. DeepList

    DeepList Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    9,692
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2013
    Location:
    Auburn, IN
    Keep us posted. :thumbsup:
     
  5. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,227
    Likes Received:
    247
    Joined:
    May 6, 2012
    Location:
    CO
    Battery drain, do the fuse thing like Deep suggested. If you have any non-stock electrical stuff, I'd start there. Stupid stuff like radio/amps on all night long will do that, even if there is no music playing.

    Rear end, had an issue with the rear end howling on my SVO. Only in reverse, replaced the fluid with fresh recommended Valvoline. Stopped it right away. I would do the same as a 1st step, but see what Auburn recommends for your model.

    Heat, definitely check the thermostat. Thermostats don't fail very often, so make sure you are installing them correctly. Mod motors are a piece of cake, so get the spec temperature and put one back in. I'd bet there is not one even in there, or it can be stuck open. Make sure the spring part is pointing inside the motor.
     
  6. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    Went out to start it after sitting for about 12hrs of sitting and it started right up, with my buddies battery. Took my battery up to Autozone and told them I'm having issues with it. They threw their little battery tester on it and it said it needs a charge. Dude started tapping on the battery, then dropped it on the ground (from about an inch off the ground) and determined that it was frozen. About time those idiots know more than me. I never would have guessed it was frozen. So he swapped it out with a new one under warranty. I bought that battery back in October so it was still brand new. Note to self, don't leave battery in the car if weather drops below zero like it did this year. By far the coldest winter I can ever remember, and he said that I wasn't the only one with frozen battery issues. I still think I have a small drain somewhere, either from my radio or my amp for my sub, I'll check those out eventually.

    Also picked up a stat while I was up there for $10. The gasket that came with it did not fit my manifold (guess I should have told him 01 bullitt) but fortunately I was able to use the old gasket I already had on. I checked it for cracks and what have you and it looked fine so I didn't have an issue re using it. The old stat was stuck alright, usually I don't have any issues pressing them into the open position by hand, this one I couldn't budge. Probably a good thing I had coolant in the block because this thing wasn't moving.

    Thanks for the input guys, glad it was easy stuff so far. As for the diff I plan on picking up Redline heavy duty gear oil and Auburn friction modifier that Auburn recommends using in all their diff's. That won't be for awhile as that's about $50 but knocking things out. Funny what parking the car and forgetting about it for awhile does in terms of problem solving..
     
  7. DeepList

    DeepList Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    9,692
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2013
    Location:
    Auburn, IN
    Did you buy your diff new from Auburn? They usually include some of their own friction modifier in the box.
    Too bad I don't still work there, I could have got you a bottle for next to nothing or free.
     
  8. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,761
    Likes Received:
    198
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2007
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Trade you my issues for yours! :D
     
  9. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    Charles no sir I bought it in a rear end out of a 98 cobra with 12k on it. So it's close to new but not brand new. And that would have been sweet but fortunately they are only about $12/bottle from Summit

    Chris LOL I have extensive issues with mine that I've just learned to deal with. Leaking rear end (out of the vent tube...), front main leak, the issues a listed in this thread, no ac (I like my creature comforts), bubbles forming on quarter (will be addressed this summer if all goes to plan), ebrake handle ripped out of the floor on the front, bad coils... I could go on and on and on lol. Part of my goal this year is to get it running and get it running properly. And now that my job is literally 5min from home I won't have to worry about driving it as far with all the problems.

    But on the same token I have no idea what else is wrong with your car besides the bad trans

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
     
  10. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,761
    Likes Received:
    198
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2007
    Location:
    Cincinnati, OH
    Just the bad trans on mine. I've replaced everything else with quality parts. LoL
     
  11. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    I've been doing much the same since I bought mine man. But when you're the 9th owner of a car... Boy it sure takes a LOT of replacing! I replace as I blow up. Next on the list will be trans and lower end, seeing as are the only 2 things I haven't blown up. Blew up the rear, busted the clutch line twice, blew a spark plug out of the head and stripped the head, cracked the intake manifold, blew the heater core, hell even the stock radio which I had taken a liking too died on me. I'm thinking about getting a special plate for it like MRPHYLW or something to commemorate the hard work I've put into this thing to get it where it is
     
  12. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    Kentucky
    Your rear diff problem kinda sounds like what happened to mine after getting caught in a downpour with street drag radials. Guess it overworked the clutch packs, after that it would partially lock up the diff then make the sound and unlock. All would be fine as long as i didnt make sharp turns. I would definetly check into that so it doesnt eat your axles up. Mine simply needed a rebuild, but i got a good deal on a FRPP locker, so now i have it just sitting around ready to rebuild.
     
  13. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    O man that worries me a little. It came out of a car with 12k on it. An old guy owned the car I doubt he beat the piss out of it. I'm going to replace the fluid and change the modifier in it and see if it goes away. I really don't want to ship this thing off to get it rebuilt already
     
  14. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    14,331
    Likes Received:
    612
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Location:
    Prairieville, Louisiana
    :finger: Royal Purpler

    Mobil 1 synthetic is my top choice [not that my opinion means dick, but still, IMO LOL ]
     
  15. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    I've always liked Mobil 1, I use their full synth oil in all my cars, but Summit doesn't carry it in diff fluid (at least online) and I had good success with Redline last time around. I switched to Royal garbage because it was at Autozone and I didn't feel like driving down to Summit to get more Redline. I should have. But didn't. I'll look into pricing on the Mobil 1 tho Josef thanks for the opinion
     
  16. white95

    white95 Administrator Staff Member SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    14,331
    Likes Received:
    612
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2007
    Location:
    Prairieville, Louisiana
    Shit son!!! Vatozone carries that shit, well, at least around here they do..