Drag suspension tips?

Rice_slayer

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Well, since my car is apparently making some power now, my suspension has become a limiting factor. Here is the video of my car launching and running, 60 was 1.69 in this pass.
[video=youtube;QbawvZYiXyA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbawvZYiXyA[/video]

Current set-up on this pass was as follows: Stock mach 1 springs, cut 1 coil in the front, uncut rears, MM rear LCAs, tokico 5 way adustable shocks/struts, fronts set to 1 (softest) rears were at 3(medium), no front sway bar, and 26x8.5x15 et drags at 12psi. I was only launching at 4500rpm, but the car squats and "bounces" a lot as you can see when I shift. Just wondering what are some good mods to look into to help get the power planted a little better. I am changing my wheel setup to SVE drag wheels, 17 fronts and 15 rears with 28x10.5 et drags. Also looking into full length subframe connectors. Anything else I should do? I think the car's suspension is absorbing a lot of the launch momentum :/.
 

Wichers123

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The left wheel really seems to not be planted as much as the right maybe setting up your suspension to lean alittle on the left side with help plant both wheels evenly.
 
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Rice_slayer

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Ya, Would setting the drive side 1 setting softer than the right help that? I want to see if FLSFC will help stiffen it up before touching my springs (ie; air bag). Car runs strong, as the mph says, but for some reason the ET isn't matching my MPH for crap :/ I think suspension/ wheels that don't weigh a ton will help a lot.
 

Wichers123

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Yeah high trap speeds generally mean wheel spin, when a car gets and hooks the mph will be down. I pulled a 14.7 at 97 mph but then cut a 14.5 at 95 mph. My civic days I used to pull a 13.1 at 115mph but a lot of spinning.

also try setting the the front struts alittle stiffer.
 

MustangChris

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quick! The bat signal:
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:)
 

Musturd

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How are the upper control arm bushings on the diff side ? My car used to do some funny stuff when they were torn .... Have you thought about a anti roll bar by chance ... It will leave a lot straighter .
 

MadStang

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How are the upper control arm bushings on the diff side ? My car used to do some funny stuff when they were torn .... Have you thought about a anti roll bar by chance ... It will leave a lot straighter .

this. i can almost guarantee the UCA bushings are shot. not to mention the entire 4 link suspension deserves to be shot lol. Personally if you're going to replace the UCA bushings, I'd go for a set of spherical bushings in the axle and double adjustable UCA's from Team Z or Steeda that use a heim joint end. But if you do that, make sure to weld your torque boxes or install a set of battle boxes because yes it will absolutely annihilate your torque boxes otherwise since there is no rubber/poly to absorb any impact. You do this and it will help the car leave "more straight", to really finish it up you're looking at an ARB.

This is what my bushings looked like after about 2 years of corner carving, the 4-link is not very confidence inspiring...

1150278_487895704633119_506259546_n.jpg
 
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Rice_slayer

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Good info! I might get my buddy to tack up my torque boxes (the one is ripping a little). I was considering the ARB but considering I daily the car, it's not something I want to do, I know they can be disconnected but It's not something I want to have put on the car :/ Guess I'm ordering some new uppers and subframes soon!
 

Musturd

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Madstangs right on point that's what I run on my car double adjustable uppers and spherical bushings even in my wet complex where my shop is yesterday I could actually tell the huge difference in weight transfer with my new suspension setup front and rear but my springs are pretty soft
 

ReplicaR

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Sorry, I don't comprende drag suspension... not do I choose to.
 

duff daddy

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I have a nice set of MetCo Upper control arms witch are Double adjustable, and lower HPM control arms, not pretty, or perfect but they are a better arm out there.

As far as the low et, Remember if you control the front a little, how easy it comes up, may help plant the rear. If you control how fast it comes up, it may leave more pressure on the rear for a longer time, not necessarily higher lift but longer and more solid. Take care of the obvious things first, then try to adjust some more.
 

MustangChris

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so.... I'm a MM nut-hugger and they suggest sticking with the OEM rubber bushings.... now that MadStang has posted pictures of his, i'm starting to second guess that advice.

is that advice targeted towards road-racing, or drag racing, or both, or neither (street car only) ??
 
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Rice_slayer

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Ya, These videos my buddy took are the first real close up vids I have of the car launching. I have too much weight transfer, and lots of twist. I will try the obvious first, and see from there. If I can get this down to 11.7 I would be happy, Don't want to go 11.5 due to roll cages and what not. Suspension is definitely a very important part I'm now realizing haha.
 

Musturd

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so.... I'm a MM nut-hugger and they suggest sticking with the OEM rubber bushings.... now that MadStang has posted pictures of his, i'm starting to second guess that advice.

is that advice targeted towards road-racing, or drag racing, or both, or neither (street car only) ??


Yea I guess it's only for corner carvers for a street car weekend racer I still ran poly eurethane bushings but now I run solid spherical bushings it's the only real way to go with the ghetto stock style 4 link it's direct and no play ... Even on street tires you can plant the rear pretty damn good with the rear shocks set nice and soft . Don't worry Chris 99% of people are mm nut huggers .... Or termi nut huggers .... I only really like there coilovers and rear control Arms...
 

MustangChris

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Yea I guess it's only for corner carvers for a street car weekend racer I still ran poly eurethane bushings but now I run solid spherical bushings it's the only real way to go with the ghetto stock style 4 link it's direct and no play ... Even on street tires you can plant the rear pretty damn good with the rear shocks set nice and soft . Don't worry Chris 99% of people are mm nut huggers .... Or termi nut huggers .... I only really like there coilovers and rear control Arms...

half the reason to be a MM nut hugger is because of their staff. They have awesome guys working for them.

Anyways, their "tech page" talks about axle binding with poly/solid bushings... is there a way to remedy that? is that for turning, or straight line?

and Termi> all.
;) lol.
 

twovalveterror

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half the reason to be a MM nut hugger is because of their staff. They have awesome guys working for them.

Anyways, their "tech page" talks about axle binding with poly/solid bushings... is there a way to remedy that? is that for turning, or straight line?

and Termi> all.
;) lol.

it is in relation to attempting a turn. the upper control arms are not ideal at all, but the rubber keeps them from binding, as you said. removing the stockers is taking an imperfect system and setting it in stone. you can make the 4 link work pretty damn well in a straight line, but it requires you to put a serious Achilles heel in your set up if you plan on taking a couple quick corners. TA/PHB solves this, as does IRS.
 

MustangChris

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ah. so as a straight-line kinda guy making the system solid would be a good idea?
 

twovalveterror

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ah. so as a straight-line kinda guy making the system solid would be a good idea?

this is all spoken from the perspective of a technical understanding, I've never driven a car with after market uppers. I imagine the problem wouldn't manifest itself til you were near the edge of the cars limits. as far as best system for straight line goes, a lot of that goes along with budget, see 95opals build for context. as musturd said, I'm betting it would beat the hell out of the stock system, but I'll defer to their expertise on it.

for the MM nut hugger in you, I believe their drag car utilizes a TA/PHB combo.
 

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