Dropping T5 - post your tips/tricks/knowledge inside

joemomma

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Going to tackle u-joints and hopefully the speedo gear change tomorrow on my '94. Any tips/tricks/knowledge that you feel helpful drop them below. I'll be doing this on jack stands (yay for my back) in the garage. The driveshaft looks fairly straightforward, as does the trans removal. The speedo gear inside the trans shouldn't be much of an issue from the videos I've seen. I've got a pretty good selection of tools, including a couple of cordless impacts that should make the job easier.
 

weendoggy

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Get yourself (if you don't have one) a small propane torch/bottle. You'll most likely need it to remove the rear flange bolts on the pinion. Just heat up the outer side of the flange near each bolt and apply brute strength to break them loose, one at a time. Be sure to center punch (or use a paint pen) both flanges near one bolt so you get it back in the same relationship. I think it's a 12mm 12pt socket that works best. I use an impact socket 3/8" drive. If you have a ball joint tool kit (big one) the C clamp is good for the joints. When putting new ones in, I like to "clock" the zerk fitting (if they have one) in the same plane both ends and be sure to install it with the zerk toward the shaft, not the flange.

As for the speedo gear, that should be easy. The T5 just pulls out of the trans and then you un-clip the gear and put a new one on. I think there's a chart somewhere that'll get you close to what you need to match your speed. It may just get close. I did this on my Cobra when I built it, matching gear ratio. Now it has a TKO.

Q? Why are you dropping the T5?
 
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joemomma

joemomma

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Get yourself (if you don't have one) a small propane torch/bottle. You'll most likely need it to remove the rear flange bolts on the pinion. Just heat up the outer side of the flange near each bolt and apply brute strength to break them loose, one at a time. Be sure to center punch (or use a paint pen) both flanges near one bolt so you get it back in the same relationship. I think it's a 12mm 12pt socket that works best. I use an impact socket 3/8" drive. If you have a ball joint tool kit (big one) the C clamp is good for the joints. When putting new ones in, I like to "clock" the zerk fitting (if they have one) in the same plane both ends and be sure to install it with the zerk toward the shaft, not the flange.

As for the speedo gear, that should be easy. The T5 just pulls out of the trans and then you un-clip the gear and put a new one on. I think there's a chart somewhere that'll get you close to what you need to match your speed. It may just get close. I did this on my Cobra when I built it, matching gear ratio. Now it has a TKO.

Q? Why are you dropping the T5?

Right on, thanks for the tips. Dropping the trans to change the internal speedo gear. With the 4.10s, it just chews up the gear on the end of the speedo cable after a couple of weeks. To do it "right", you have to change the internal gear on the shaft in the back half of the trans.
 

weendoggy

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OK, gotcha. For me, the best thing is get everything out of the way for the T5, i.e. exhaust, clamps etc. Make it easy on yourself. Drain the T5 prior to pulling the d-line and all the other stuff. If you're not replacing the clutch you should be able to just pull the T5 by itself. You may have to loosen the motor mount bolt to let the engine tilt a bit, but maybe not. Just wait and see.

If you've never taken a T5 apart, be cautious. You have to remove the shift tower and knock the linkage pin down to free it from the shaft. You CAN NOT pull the rear cover off before that or you'll break something. Once the shift block is free, you can remove the rear cover. When you remove the rear cover, be mindful of the detent spring, ball and pin you just knocked out. After that it's not too hard. You can either leave the black factory plug on or off when putting it all back together. If the T5 hasn't been apart before, the cover bolts might need some heat (like the flange bolts) to loosen the locking sealer on the bolts. Not as much heat, but be prepared.
 

Maximum95

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Good luck buddy, I just had mine in and out a few times for several reasons. I love the T5 because it is so easy to remove. Definitely pull the shifter handle from inside the car before dropping the transmission. As stated above, driveshaft and exhaust is pretty much the only thing holding you back! Definitely plan on having a second set of hands. I can lift the trans by myself, but having a second person to help remove/install bolts and get it off/on your chest for the T5 bench press. Also, just as stated above, if you're not doing the clutch you don't have to touch anything in front of the trans. But, do take a peek at your pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch fork pivot.
 
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joemomma

joemomma

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This project is shelved for the time being, I'll update my build thread with details later today.
 

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