EGR problem????

BullitSN95

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Hey guys.. Well I just got done installing a Bassani Catted Xpipe on my 94 GT. I also did some Mac headers.. Well I oviously broke that EGR pipe the goes to the pass side header. I tryed to use a pipe AIr fitting on the header and connected a rubber heater hose to it and connected the EGR.. WELL that lasted 2 days, I guess the heat was too much and cracked the rubber hose. Well to make a long story short, I capped the Header witha pipe plug and it doesent leak.. BUT I left the EGR pipe open.. Now my car surge's at idle and sometimes wants to stall out.. I put my finger under teh EGR tube and cant feel any suckin or anything.. Can this cause my car to run like it is?? I also took the upper intake off and painted it... but I did not run into ANY problems with reconnection. What do you guys think?
 

Glockz

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I would suggest blocking off the inlet to the EGR valve in the same manner as you did at the header. You shouldn't have any issues other than the occasional "check engine" light. I've had it disconnected from my 86 GT for several years without any problems. The vacuum leak caused by your EGR is certainly causing your driveability issues.

NOTE: I'm not sure what part of the country you live in but some states by do a visual inspection of emissions equipment and that could cost you some grief.

-Glockz
 

ryclef331

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you block it off on these cars WITHOUT shutting it off or tricking it, you will get part throttle detonation. The only people I've seen who say "well it didn't happen to me bla bla bla." were the ones running around 10 degrees of timing on 93. You can get a new tube from the dealership for cheap. I rigged up some copper tubing along LONG time ago on mine but I've since had the car tuned and the EGR function taken out of the ECU. I had some high temp orange silicone tubing as well. We use it as firesleeves on Helo's. It worked pretty good but I don't know where you can just "buy" it.

You can also take the egr solenoid out of the valve and somehow secure the plunger halfway down and block off the hole on the intake (a fuel pump block off plate works great). Tuck the modified solenoid away somewhere. This also will "trick" ECU into think its working properly. I've also used a series of resistors in the end of the plug with limited success. this is the diagram. I got them at radio shack. Solder them into the connector and sealed the end up with RTV silicone. It worked ok. The check engine light no longer came on instantly but after about 20 minutes of driving it would. It COULD have been another error code all together though...

147354129.jpg



There you have it man.
 

Glockz

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ryclef331 said:
you block it off on these cars WITHOUT shutting it off or tricking it, you will get part throttle detonation.

What would cause it detonation? If you leave the vaccum line hooked up to the EGR the plunger it would operate normally and sensor would relay everything is working okay to the EEC. With the EGR blocked off there wouldn't be a vacuum leak and no heated exhaust gasses being passed to the intake so I would think everything is fine. Am I missing something?
 

ryclef331

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spent exhaust gases recirculated into the combustion chamber actually lower the temps during the combustion process. With out EGR, the higher temps in the chamber cause detonation...this only happens at part throttle b/c thats when EGR is operating. Don't take my word for it. Read this.

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egr.htm

"If the engine stumbles or stalls at idle or lacks power under load, EGR may be staying on and not shutting off. On the other hand, if the engine is pinking at cruise, EGR may not be turning on to cool down combustion chamber temperatures."
 

chrajohns0

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ryclef331 said:
you block it off on these cars WITHOUT shutting it off or tricking it, you will get part throttle detonation. The only people I've seen who say "well it didn't happen to me bla bla bla." were the ones running around 10 degrees of timing on 93. You can get a new tube from the dealership for cheap. I rigged up some copper tubing along LONG time ago on mine but I've since had the car tuned and the EGR function taken out of the ECU. I had some high temp orange silicone tubing as well. We use it as firesleeves on Helo's. It worked pretty good but I don't know where you can just "buy" it.

You can also take the egr solenoid out of the valve and somehow secure the plunger halfway down and block off the hole on the intake (a fuel pump block off plate works great). Tuck the modified solenoid away somewhere. This also will "trick" ECU into think its working properly. I've also used a series of resistors in the end of the plug with limited success. this is the diagram. I got them at radio shack. Solder them into the connector and sealed the end up with RTV silicone. It worked ok. The check engine light no longer came on instantly but after about 20 minutes of driving it would. It COULD have been another error code all together though...

147354129.jpg



There you have it man.
i read up on this and thought that i would give it a try. the only thing that i am having problems with is figuring out where the "plunger" is...... ryclef... you got a diagram for this?
 

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