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egr system delete

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by godfearingman, Aug 10, 2015.

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  1. Aug 10, 2015 #1
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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    Hi I have an 94 GT I'm in the process of fixing up and I'm wanting to delete the egr system especially the piping to make it easier to work on and for looks as well. How would I go about doing so and the car be drivable? Have to get the computer flashed to get rid of the the egr system in the computer?
     
  2. Aug 10, 2015 #2
    evilcw311

    evilcw311 Most Evil Member! SN95 Supporter

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    You will need a chip with a tune to delete the egr or you will have a check engine light and idle issues.


    This message courtesy of crapatalk!
     
  3. Aug 10, 2015 #3
    lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    I made a block off plate with some scrap steel. Made a cork gasket. Just traced it all from the EGR valve. Pretty simple. I think I used a JIC hydraulic cap on the exhaust, don't think the threads were 100% match, but it was close, got tight, and seals, all i can ask for....
     
  4. Aug 10, 2015 #4
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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    I'm mainly wanting to get rid of the piping to make it easier to work on the car especially number 4 plug its a PITA to get to with the egr tube/pipe right next to it plus planning on installing headers once I get another transmission put in in the next couple months.
     
  5. Aug 10, 2015 #5
    SNorange94

    SNorange94 Member

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  6. Aug 10, 2015 #6
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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  7. Aug 10, 2015 #7
    SNorange94

    SNorange94 Member

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    Nope, it just blocks exhaust gases from recirculating.
    What do you have the timing set to?
     
  8. Aug 10, 2015 #8
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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    Don't know I've only had the car about 3 months now still in the process of fixing it up. I don't have a timing light but planning on buying one soon. Why will capping it off affect timing or something?
     
  9. Aug 10, 2015 #9
    lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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  10. Aug 10, 2015 #10
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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    I definitely don't have that kinda money to spend on something I might use once or twice was planning on getting $20 one from Harbor Freight.
     
  11. Aug 10, 2015 #11
    lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    lol ok, at least get the one with the advance dial. its like 30 bucks. make one mark on 0 deg. and adjust.
     
  12. Aug 10, 2015 #12
    SNorange94

    SNorange94 Member

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    It's not going to mess with your timing. Some people say that it leans out the fuel mix a bit, so when you time it listen for pinging.
    I had my timing set to 14* BTDC and it ran great.
     
  13. Aug 10, 2015 #13
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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  14. Aug 10, 2015 #14
    lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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  15. Aug 10, 2015 #15
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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    What makes it worth the extra money? The adjuster dial or what?
     
  16. Aug 10, 2015 #16
    lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    say you buy the cheap one. you have to mark the balancer at what ever timing you want to set it at. It's hard to check what its at currently without the dial.

    With the dial, mark zero deg on the balancer, and fine tune the dial until the mark lines up. Want to set it to 12, turn it to 12, then set the dizzy. Want to try 10, turn the dial to 10. Otherwise you'd have to make multiple marks on the balancer.
     
  17. Aug 10, 2015 #17
    godfearingman

    godfearingman Active Member

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    Ok I've never used a timing light or set timing before
     
  18. Aug 10, 2015 #18
    ttocs

    ttocs Post Whore

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    good to know as I need to get one. The way I see it is that while a timing light isn't all that difficult/technical of a piece it would still be really easy to screw up and cause problems.
     
  19. Aug 10, 2015 #19
    lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    It's real simple. Just be sure to unplug the spout connector before checking/adjusting. Any questions let me know :)
     
  20. Aug 10, 2015 #20
    duh09

    duh09 Legend

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    You guys are forgetting the cheapest block-off out there for the header! Cut the tube, pull the the screw part that screws onto the header off, throw a penny in it, and tighten it down. Ghetto? Mehhh Kinda. But fits perfectly, the copper will give a little bit and seal good, and if it ever blows out, it literally costs $0.01 to fix. When I deleted my EGR junk on the red 94, that's what I did. First penny would have lasted but my buddy "engraved" a X into it and wouldn't you know, it split along those lines. But the 2nd one was in the car for 6k miles before I sold it with no issue whatsoever.

    Can't remember what I did on the valve itself, but I left it attached for the time being.

    I think a 351W mechanical fuel pump block-off is the same dimensions as the EGR valve on the intake. It may be the 351C or something oddball like that because I'm pretty sure the 302 and 351W would be identical and I know it wasn't a 302 one because whatever size it was was something we don't stock at my store... Idk, quick search would probably turn up the correct one but there is SOME fuel pump block-off that fits perfectly over the EGR valve ports on the intake if you do remove the whole valve.
     
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