ELECTRICAL Water Temp & Oil Pressure gauge install

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by the5.ohh, May 30, 2016.

  1. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Have these gauges to go in. So far I got the proper fittings I needed for "adapters" for the new sending units. Water temp is done minus the wiring. Now for the oil pressure, I've been reading that if I don't use a Tee fitting and keep the stock sending switch hooked up, i'll have a low oil light on permanently? If thats true I'll get a tee and run both. My water temp and oil pressure gauges (factory) do whatever they want.
     
  2. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    I found a write up on here by Paul, but for the life of me cannot find the damn link.
     
  3. white95

    white95 Apex Junky Admin

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  4. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    there are two different sensors if you pull the one that goes to the dash the only bad part is the stock gauge will no longer read but no light
     
  5. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    There are two different senders for the coolant temp, not for oil pressure. For oil pressure, just remove the stock sender and use the aftermarket instead. There's no reason to keep the stock oil pressure, it just feeds the gauge on your dash, doesn't tell the ECU anything.

    I have completely replaced my cluster - if you have questions about anything, I'll be happy to help out.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Holy shit I love your setup. I'm just electrical ignorant, I despise it. So by taking out the oil sending switch and using the new one for the gauge, will it throw a low oil light? If its just the gauge that won't move I won't care tbh
     
  7. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    Thanks ;)

    So I re-read what I had typed, along with your question, and realized I probably wasn't very clear. Sorry about that :-/

    There are two oil related senders on your car (assuming we are talking about a 95 Mustang with a 5.0). One is for oil level, and is located on the driver side of your oil pan (the rear sump portion). The other is for oil pressure, and is located on the driver side of the block, close to where the oil filter goes. (This is not like the coolant temp, as there two coolant temp senders on the car, that perform an identical function: one for the gauge, and one for the ECU.)

    The gauge in your cluster hooks up to the oil pressure sender. The warning light in your cluster for low oil level hooks up to the low oil level sender. Neither of these connect to the ECU.

    For the oil pressure, if you want to put in an aftermarket gauge, you can completely replace the stock oil pressure sender with the one that came with your gauge. This will not affect the car (other than making the oil pressure gauge in your dash no longer work - which is fine, it's not very accurate anyway).

    There's no reason to replace the oil level sending unit in the oil pan unless it is faulty. If it is faulty, replace with a stock/OEM replacement.

    If you swapped out your oil pressure gauge, and are getting a low oil level light, you either replaced the wrong sender, OR your stock oil level sender happens to be faulty (or you have no oil in the car, which is a possibility).

    Edit: also, I have completely re-wired the dash (and some other stuff), if you have any electrical questions on that as well, I'd be happy to assist.
     
  8. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    here is how I stared off. I wanted use both a a oil temp sendor as well as an oil pressure sender. Needless to say teh factory piece got leff out of that monstrocity.
    [​IMG]
    Whe I got the oil cooler they offered a port on the side of teh sandwich plate that allowed me to move my aftermarlet sender there and then put the stock sender back in so it is not dead. You can buy there sandwich plates without the oil cooler fi you want it cleaner but dont srue how. The oil temp gauge can't be seen because the I found a bung on the bottom of the upper area. should be a perfect place to read the temp I hope..
    [​IMG]
    So as you can see it cleaned up really well. You do not need to use the oi cooler to use the sandwichplate to gain a place to stic a sensor.
     
  9. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    ^ For reference, the sending unit that comes with Auto Meter electric gauges is much smaller than the stock one: link. I'm not even sure if the stock/OEM unit will work with an aftermarket gauge - depends on the voltages that it puts out and what the gauge is expecting.
     
  10. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    So I got the oil pressure sending unit out.. that was a joy and a half. Got the new sensor threaded in as much as possible by hand. Just having trouble getting a socket hammered on deep enough to get a ratchet handle on to tighten it. Frustrating
     
  11. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    yes mine was much easier to work on, but I also did not have the rad in the way....
     
  12. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Its like everything that could be in the way, is in the way haha.
     
  13. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    see now I was thinking it was nice the way I was able to get pics and all. Just take out the rad and front end and it will be much easier....
     
  14. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    What the previous owner had done on my car that I continued until recently was he used an oil hose (kind of like a braided line, but cheaper rubber), and threaded that in there. Then ran the hose up to the shock tower, and threaded the sensor in there. I'll see if I can dig up a pic if you want. I don't recommend it, though it has worked for 3+ years. And because it was a hose, it was easier to thread into that tight place.
     
  15. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    I've seen that before tbh. I trust ya judgement, I won't go that route. It was like almost 11 last night, pitch black out. Lying under the car in the street haha, so I gave up for now