Engine build/ What's my best way to make more power

The block will probably split before you ever see 550. Why do you want 600-700hp? It's pretty much useless to have anything over 500 on the street in a Mustang platform IMO. If you really want 600+, better put a Dart block at the top of your list.

 

+1 on all the above info

 

Also worth noting, a turbo seems to be the death sentence for a stock block 5.0. People tend to blow head gaskets every other week, then once they upgrade to really good head gaskets the block tends to be the weakest link. Blower cars seem to last longer from what I've seen, and nitrous cars tend to last a lot longer.

 

That's a lot of compression to be throwing boost on kinda. Are you talking 600 hp at the motor or the wheels? If I were you'd I'd skip the on3 and get a Vortech kit in either the 5-6 lb kit or the 6-8. It'll go on easier than the on3 has a better product reputation and better customer service (from what I hear about on3). I didn't see you mention you're fuel pump, if it's stock you'll need a larger one like a 255, you'll need one of you go a turbo or the Vortech. You'll also need larger fuel injectors at least 42#'ers but I think I'd opt for the 60's. Keep your same maf and have it "calibrated" via a tune which is something you'll want/need anyway. At around 8 lbs of boost or so you'll be making north of 400 whp which is a good amount and probably more than your suspension can hold right now anyway. That is unless you have a good set of rear control arms etc.
Oh and remember, they tax the sht outta those bonuses.

Don't Sext and Drive.

 

Too much psi and poor tuning I think.
Nitrous cars lasting longer- it's because they only use it handful times a year.

Don't Sext and Drive.

 

I know plenty of turbo 5.0's around where I live that last with no problem. Luckily we have a great tuner local who gets them all running perfectly.

It's a known fact that blowers are harder on the car in general cause of how hard they come on as opposed the the slower hit that a turbo gives. Not to mention the less stress put on your crank by a turbo.

They both have ups and downs. Turbos have more parts that you have to maintain and super chargers are harder on parts and are less efficient.

Now that I've vented that, I didn't see the op asking which would be better.


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No, no he didn't. Would you use an on3 "kit" though? Not me man


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

After buying a on3 kit I wouldnt buy one. To many issues. Also 500 is the limit on a stock 302. I disagree with the 500 is to much on the street, but to each his own. A 351 will support more power with a 2 bolt but if youve got the coin go 4 bolt. And why not build a 351w 4 bolt if your building one it costs the same.

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He already has a 302 w aftermarket heads and such. He's wanting to make 600 hp using what he has by adding X amount of boost.
But really I don't think this guy know knows what he's getting into. He's wanting 700 horse power on a budget (hence the on3 kit) and there's no such thing. A 600-700 hp car needs a pretty expensive suspension setup. Heck even a 300 whp mustang needs a fairly decent suspension upgrade so you won't blow yer tires off or have your azz wagging all over the place.
I just realized that no one really answered your question on if you would make 600 hp w that kit. I didn't look at the link so I'm not sure how much boost you'll be making but I'm gonna have to bet no. N/A you're probably in the ballpark between 280-310 whp depending on what intake you use. If it's say 12 psi you might could make 450-460 at the tire which would be somewhere in the 500 crank hp range.
OP, do you have a car or just a motor?
If you have a car and I guess this would apply if you don't as well, step back from the power department Ricky Bobby. Before you start throwing money at the go fast stuff kinda evaluate the total project. How's my bottom end? How's my suspension? Is the body straight? How is my front end, nice and tight? Do I have enough brakes to rein in 600 hp? How are my tires? Is my exhaust old and rusty? Do I have enough $ for larger injectors and fuel pump? After I have the forced induction added do I have the $500-$700 for a tune?
Man, from a vet to a new boot, don't blow your whole bonus on an on3 kit.
For that matter don't blow the whole bonus on anything car related. Set aside a little bit for regular life. Once the bonus is gone, it'll be kinda tough to support the hobby on an E4 salary.
Ps: what branch?


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

Or......merge into the modular world. A coyote swap will be cheaper than a built windsor capable of 600hp and far more reliable. Best of all, the engine is stock. Put some psi in the ports and youll get your 600hp. Im not bashing the old school here, just opening the eyes

 

Kinda.... Are you building a race car or a street car? Are you wanting to have a car that's quick enough to hold its own on the street against just about everything that you'd run across on a Sunday afternoon? Or are you trying to strip the car down to "bare bones" so you can run a 9 second 1/4 a few times a year?
If it's the first case scenario I think that your horsepower goals are way too high and way too unrealistic, and pseudo fast and the furious esq.
For starters a 700 hp 95 mustang requires some serious money and you're not going to get there w an on3 "kit". Like I stated previously, it takes one heck of a car to handle 600 hp. We're talking everything from top to bottom. A 200k mi mustang GT with all original parts except for the 600 hp motor isn't going to cut the mustard.
I'll end with this, if you run the motor as is without any type of forced induction you'll be quick enough to not get embarrassed by too much on the street as long as the road isn't too long. If you were to add 100 more hp via "small" blower (say you're at 300 now and the "small" blower would put you above 400 whp) You'd be able to run with the best of them as long as your rear suspension and tires are good.
The moral of the story is you don't "need" 700 hp and I don't think that you can afford it.


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

He can't afford a $10k coyote swap, he's looking at a $2,400 turbo "kit":


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

Coyote swap is down to $4000 complete

 

Transmission, motor mounts, ecu, wiring harness etc?


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

Other than the motor what else is needed to make it work?


Don't Sext and Drive.

 

A new purchased package includes 0mile complete engine(throttle body to oil pan. even headers), wiring, ecu, electronic pedal, mounts....etc. This kit sells eveyday for around $7k. Alot of rebuilders are going this route too.
The kit can be cheaper by sourcing the parts separately and scavenging a used engine.

400+rwhp with 87octane! It just makes sence! Sad but technology has caught up to bite the engine builders profits.

 

My $10k guess was fairly close. Will the t5 work?

Don't Sext and Drive.