Engine Cuts Out While Driving MAF Problem???

[Sidewinder]

Man You Get What You Pay For. I got a FREE Car. O0 That Should Tell You Something :hammer:

Anyway I have it running pretty good now except that it will just die for a split second while driving. Does not seem to matter what RPM or Throttle position or even engine load. It will do it a low RPM and under acceleration or cruise. It acts like the injectors shut down for a split second then start again. It gives a buck then drives on. Sometime 1 buck others several in a row. When I first got it it would not rev past 3K so I cleaned the MAF and WOW what a difference. It was MAJOR dirty like twice the diameter is was supposed to be before I cleaned it. I wonder if it was damaged by being so dirty. but it is expensive so I would rather not replace it until I get into mods and go to bigger injectors. Car is bone stock. Any suggestions? Sorry for the long post.

 

[GREG@SN95]

I doubt your MAF is bad...

run some fuel system cleaner, check the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and buy a new fuel filter...

 

[Sidewinder]

I have already put in a new fuel filter, cap, Rotor, Plugs, and wires. I even installed my MSD 6AL box. It ran much better but did not impact the bucking. I also ran a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner through it with no change. If it is not the MAF then I am at a real loss. It feels too quick to be a loss of pressure. That would be a stumble this just shuts off then right back on no loss of power before and instant recovery.

 

[GREG@SN95]

read this...

http://www.sn95forums.com/idlefix.html

 

[Sidewinder]

Sounds like it is worth a try. I have not reset the TPS yet. What is the WOT voltage. I may as well check that while I am checking and setting the closed position. Thanks for the suggestion. i will give it a try tomorrow.

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

I believe idle is .97v and WOT is around 3.xx

 

[ryclef331]

WOT should be close to 5 volts. Closed throttle should read ideally .97-.99

 

[Sidewinder]

I did the TPS tests like the above post suggested with no improvment. It does feel like the overall throttle response is better now but it did not help my bucking problem. I am really stumped here I even rerouted all of my plug wires just in case I was getting some sotr of induction cross fire or something but still no help. :help2:

 

[GREG@SN95]

check the distributor, plugs, etc

 

[97blackgt]

your TPS could have a deadspot in it...

 

[Sidewinder]

Update. I went ahead and changed the TPS even though it tested good hoping for a dead spot. No luck. I cleaned the Salt & Pepper connectors. They felt tight but I took them apart and cleaned them out. No change. I pulled the codes doing the KOEO test. I got 6 codes: 637,654,621,622,652,624. All of these are auto Trans codes, which is no surprise as I have converted from AOD to T5 and have not changed computers. I don't think any of these codes explain my problem and I don't think that it is the computer telling the Trans to shift, as it does not happen with any kind of pattern. For example I would think that if it was the computer trying to tell the trans to shift then I should be able to get it to happen the same during multiple WOT runs. This does not happen. I also removed the vacuum from the EGR (I capped it so no leak) with no change. Could this be O2 sensors even though there are no O2 codes? I am running out of ideas? I have changed all of the ignition parts including the wires and I also did the "Induction fire TSB" and rerouted the plug wires so that none of them can touch each other.

 

[97blackgt]

hmmm sorry to hear that didnt work..since all your electronics are working ok...have u checked engine vaccum? maybe you have a machanical problem

 

[Sidewinder]

Funny you should mention vacuum. I just ordered an new vacuum tester cause I was a bone head and dropped my other one. I am wondering if there isn't something mechanical as well.

 

[95SVTCobraVA]

This kind of sounds like I problem I had. Try replacing the stator in your distributor. Once that was changed the problem went away. The part cost about $60. Of course you have to pull the distributor to replace the part. Good luck.

 

[Win]

I know it may be something you looked at before but you said you got it for free is there a alarm on it. Stock or Aftermarket

 

[Sidewinder]

There does not appear to be any kind of aftermarket alarm that I can find. Just the factory keyless entry. Is there a write-up anywhere about replacing the stator? That sounds like it may be worth a shot. Thanks

 

[Sidewinder]

I changed the Stator and it did make the car run much better. It has a lot better power in the top end then it did before but it did not fix my original problem. I am thinking about the IAC now. I have one on the shelf from a 90 GT but it looks different. Does anyone know if it will work for testing? A new IAC looks to be close to $100 and I don't want to change this one unless it is going to solve my main problem. Any suggestions? :comando:

 

[Stangbangin]

it sounds like you have a loose connection in your fuel pump... when I got mine my fuel pump had been hacked on and someone pulled onr og the connectors too hard and it pulled the wire enough out of the plug that it would work but if I hit a bump or just because it felt liek ti it;d stop then stasrt again. which could explain why sometimes its one buck and then its a few in a row. I know its a pain but pull that fuel pump and check it out.

 

[Pennywise2]

Go clean your MAF and see what happens.
If your MAF sensor is bad replace it.

 

[Stangbangin]

I seriously doubt the MAF being the culprit. but could be wrong. whenever I've had a problem with the MAF it'd still run just like crap and wouldn't cut in and out it would just run bad.