Explorer motor.

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How necessary is it to upgrade the injectors and pump? I only thought you had to upgrade those for over 300hp?
 

rz5.0

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They are old..
19lb/hr = 258hp N/A
@ 80% duty cycle.
If your going to replace the pump might as well go bigger 255 is usually the same price as the 190lph

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So with the gt40p heads with upgraded springs and 1.6 rr. Trick flow stage 1 cam, #24 injectors and 255lph and a chip from the guy you mentioned along with my current cai, 70mm throttle body, headers and full castles exhaust....what kind of power to the wheels should I be looking at achieving?
 
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S when it comes time to take the heads to the machine shop, what exactly should I tell them? I've never taken anything to a machine shop before. I'm going to have them replace the springs to the ones I purchase but what else should I have them do? Don't want to sound like a newb or an idiot and get taken to the cleaners so to speak.
 

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Just tell them what your plan is, and see what they recommend.

They'll most likely want to check them for cracks and see if they are flat. I priced a complete overhaul of GT40 heads at a shop here for $650 (cleaning plus some machine work), that's using all my parts (springs/valves). If you have them do port work it will just add to the cost.

I would have them disassemble, clean/tank, maybe run them on the machine to deck the heads, then re-assemble. See if they recommend anything else.

What's the budget?
 

rz5.0

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Machine work can get expensive. I would just clean then up. Replace springs valve seals. Get them flat and call it good

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So budget is somewhat tight. Not wanting to spend a fortune but I know I will have to spend money on this though so it'll be a couple month project. The motor I found is a 2001 gt40 p motor with 120k miles on it. They want $450 for the motor plus $100 core and tax. So right at $600 out the door. I figure I could sell the complete motor out of my stang for a couple hundred and recoup the core or just swallow the core and keep my stock motor and do the striker kit in it down the road.
 
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There is a set of gt40 3 bar heads and explorer intake for sale near me for $365 for the set. If I just bought those I would keep my bottom end I have but it would require my stang to be down until the build is complete. Which route would you guys go?
 

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The heads and intake for $365 is a little high. I'd offer $300 if you still need to do machine work. If not, and they're ready to install I'd get them.

It's a fair price if they're bolt on ready. You just need to score a SN elbow, head/intake/exhaust gaskets and you're ready to rock.
 
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Keeping my stock bottom end, should I keep the stock ho cam and run 1.7rr or e303 cam and 1.6rr?
 

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Or E303 and 1.7rr. :shocked:
 
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So I bought the gt40 3 bar heads and intake. Got him down to $330 for all of it. The heads look really. He said he pulled off a running 96 explorer with 78k miles. Heads are clean. Going to have the heads cleaned and inspected. Thinking of swapping the springs myself. Code on the heads are F3ZZ-AA. Which are 93 heads. I know ford used old parts to save money. Just need to get these cleaned up and painted. Thinking of using the Trick Flow Stage 1 cam, 1.6 RR, 24# injectors and upgraded fuel pump to 255lph. From the searching I've done, people say they like the tfs1 over the e cam.
 
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Nice. Decent price, make sure you install the valves in the exact same spot. Maybe do the springs 1 at a time, wouldn't hurt to do the seals while you're in there.
 
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I believe the spring kit from trick flow comes with new seals. I was planning on doing one at a time taking care to do it right.
 
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Ordered the Trick Flow spring kit, TFS-2500100 to upgrade the springs. Includes new valve seals, spring height gage, and all parts needed to upgrade the springs. Hoping they are her by next weekend. Hoping to clean up the heads and swap the springs then. When the weather breaks I'll get the car home from storage and begin the process of removing the motor and begin the work. Hoping to have the heads done and the intake cleaned and painted prior to that though. Need to figure out what vacuum lines I need to keep and which ones to plug up before I paint it.
 
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Springs came in a few days ago. Cleaned the heads up by soaking them in perple power in a storage tote for 4 days. They cleaned up nice. Need to rent a spring compressor before I can change the springs out. Started cleaning the intake. Smoothed down the throttle cable bracket and began smoothing other casting marks out. This thing has way too many vacuum ports in it. What has some of you done to remove some of the ports? I think the front ports aren't needed from the pics I've seen.
 
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Been working on cleaning up the intake when I have days off work. Figured out my plan for the extra vacuum ports going to pull the extra ports out, then tap the holes to accept plugs. Going today to pick up a 93 motor from a mustang gt. Motor has 65k on it and getting it for $200. Going to build that motor then when all is done I will be able to just swap them out. Going to also be purchasing all the big ticket items today to get this thing going. Cam, injectors, fuel pump, and the list goes on.

On on that note, what is everyone's thoughts on using the l pan rails? Are they a must have or not? I'm going to go with the 1pc oil pan gasket just wasn't sure if I needed those or not.
 

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I always put them back in. The rubber 1 piece is the only way to go, valve covers as well.
 

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