Few questions on my 347 build

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by ElrodKTPQ_89, Mar 6, 2016.

  1. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    What's up guys...I got the funds lined out to get the ball rolling on building my 347 and I need some experienced hands to shed some knowledge. So far I have the block, rods, and pistons (stock block, .40 over Probe forged pistons, Eagle I-beam rods, ARP head studs)...it already needed a crank, so my machine shop will be getting one for me when I drop everything else off with them. Yesterday I got a set of AFR 185's, assembled with springs, rocker studs and guide plates, and a set of TF pushrods that came with them. The guy I bought the heads from also has a set of Comp 1.6 roller rockers he purchased with the heads that I plan on buying from him soon. I still have not figured out what I should do for a cam at the moment. As for intake (some of you may not like this idea) I would like to keep my Cobra intake, but have it ported by TMoss. I plan on swapping the motor this year some time, so I will be keeping it N/A for now but eventually would like to look into putting a Vortech or ProCharger on it.

    Now that hat I got you up to speed on what I currently have, here's where the questions come in.
    1) If I eventually plan on adding boost, what fuel pump should I look at getting? (Currently running a stock pump)

    2) I have 24lb. injectors currently...are they going to be enough for me if I stay n/a or should I step up?

    3) Are stock fuel rails sufficient? Seems like I've read that they will hold up to a pretty good bit of power.

    4) I currently have a stock Cobra MAF and housing and 65mm throttle body. I plan on upgrading the TB, is 75mm overboard or what is recommended that I go with? Same question goes for MAF.

    5) Is there anything anyone recommends that I may have overlooked? Any upgrades to electronics/ignition, cooling, stock oil pan vs aftermarket bigger pan, what options do I have for tuning. (<---that's getting into something I really have noooo clue about)

    Sorry if anything above is missing or misleading. Feel free to ask me anything, I'm not stubborn and hard-headed like some and will take your knowledge and advice to heart lol.
     
  2. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Im not a pushrod guy, but their are plenty here that are. Give them a little bit and they will post up.

    I like your build idea. Should make for a strong ride.
     
  3. castine917

    castine917 Well-Known Member

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    1. Go Bigger than you need.
    2. 24s could be ok. 30s would be safer margin if you haven't bought 24s yet while still N.A. or can go 42s or 60s N.A. and then they could stay when boosted.
    3. Stock rails support more than block.
    4. (See #5 also.) 75 ok and 90 less restrictive. Can go 90 on both. No need to worry about 90 being too big. Ask Tom at what point the intake will become the restriction.
    5. Stock oil pan fine and keeps pan sensor, money for pocket, and shouldn't have fitment issues of aftermarket parts. Stock radiator or maybe a champion/eagle if yours is ready for replacement. No need to go bigger. Your tuning choice could effect which ignition/electronics you may want. Ex- Holley HP is speed density and MAF goes away which changes answer #4 purchases.
     
  4. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    [MENTION=11473]castine917[/MENTION] in response to your response, lol.

    1. 255 should be plenty for the foreseeable future, right?

    2. The 24's I have are only a year old...so it would be sweet if I could use them but I have another use for them still if I can't. I had 30 in my mind as a safer number for n/a as well.

    3. Exactly as I had thought.

    4. Also what I had in mind. I don't plan (yet) on ever having the need to run a 90mm tb so I figured a 75mm tb would do great for now without really being restrictive or too much. Same on the MAF, I see them for sale all the time fairly cheap. A far better deal than spending new price on a 76mm MAF and it being a limiting factor. I will ask Tom about it all though, I plan to email him today.

    5. I have another stock oil pan already so that route sounds great to me...not having to worry about spending any unnecessary money and running into clearance issues with my rack, etc. The radiator I have is a stock replacement, bought in late 2013 but it still has roughly 5000 miles or maybe a little more on it. As for tuning I'm starting to do some research into it.

    Thanks for the advice so far!
     
  5. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Megasquirt and tune it yourself!
     
  6. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Bet that would be all sorts of fun. Lol
     
  7. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    It is :cool:

    You can get a plug and play system though and just write your tunes.
     
  8. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    I've actually never given it any thought, it always looked like more than I wanted on my plate.
     
  9. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Anyone else care to shed some knowledge?
     
  10. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    First thing that I tell everyone building a stock block stroker with the thought of adding boost. Dont bother save for and aftermarket block. As for staying na

    42#.... 340 pump stock rails will support enough to kill your block so no need to change. Msd or accel ignition... Upgrade the rad... Fluidyne..be cool ect.7 quart pan is never a bad idea. As for cam custom and be aure springs can handle it.
     
  11. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    I can see why you'd say that about just saving for an aftermarket block. Building an n/a Stroker or boosting a stock block could probably get me somewhat close to the same power range, both and it would probably be a time bomb to an extent.

    So 42# injectors and 340lph pump are fine for an n/a setup? What about tb and MAF, what would you recommend?
     
  12. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    No need for anything bigger than a 70mm on the cobra intake as that is the size of the inlet on the upper. Unless you plan on opening it up then 75. MAF pmas 95mm
     
  13. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    I got some answers from TMoss today. He also said to stick with a 70mm tb and leave the upper alone, and suggested an 80-90mm MAF as well. Said the 24's may be ok for now but would definitely have to be changed if adding boost, so it wouldn't hurt to step up now and be safe.
     
  14. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    [MENTION=8201]Addermk2[/MENTION] can I get your opinion on any of this?
     
  15. hotmustang95

    hotmustang95 Active Member

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    I keep seeing the adding boost deal. If on the stock block forget the boost and most of the stuff you have now will work. If you get a better block then deff upgrade the fuel system.
     
  16. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Boost likely won't happen for a long time, just wanted to hear some options with it in mind anyway.
     
  17. hotmustang95

    hotmustang95 Active Member

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    It's a ***** because if you want it done right you have to match everything up correctly for the best output. Another option would be to go ahead and get all the bigger parts and put them on the stock block but not boost until later on down the line when you get the better block and just switch everything over. But, I wonder if doing that would give you the best output? I know a couple builders here and the saying is always to match your parts well and that will always outperform an engine with to big of parts on it.
     
  18. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Anyone else out there care to share their opinion?
     
  19. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Take a 351ci block use the 347 crank assembly except the rods. Fit the bill for long rods. Torque curve and octane tolerance goes WAY up.
     
  20. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Well, that's not really in the cards for me. Lol