Finally BACK 3.8L track car build!!

[pgfdv6]

Not sure if anyone still browses these threads but I am looking for some help from some the road racing gurus in here.
I have currently been able to pick up a 2000 3.8 V6 and will be turning into a spirited track car.
the car is currently undergoing the following changes:

• complete divorced dual exhaust with flowmasters
• cold air intake
• 8.8 rear end from a GT (not sure on the gearing yet)
• steeda tri ax short throw shifter
• new plugs & wires
• new camshaft position sensor

will also be looking to replace a lot of other things with in the next couple months
tires, control arms, bushings, brakes, and eventually motor and trans.
any suggestions on what i can look into for theses things. Just want them to be slightly better then average does not have to be top of the line.
thanks for the help in advance

 

[g36 monkey]

Tires- R-Compounds if you want to spend the money. Tires are singlehandedly the most important part of your handling/braking ability which is EVERYTHING in track events. Some of the more experienced guys may have actual recommendations on actual tires to get.

Control arms - Maximum Motorsports lowers and OEM Ford uppers.

With new arms the bushings would be replaced.

Cobra brakes are cheap now, I would get those for some good 13" discs.

If you wanted a racing geared T5 they are pretty easy to find and not terribly expensive. The motors are easy to come by. The 4.2 swap is common (from the F-150) and inexpensive and adds a great deal of torque over stock.

A good refreshed motor goes a long way.

 

[pgfdv6]

Tires- R-Compounds if you want to spend the money. Tires are singlehandedly the most important part of your handling/braking ability which is EVERYTHING in track events. Some of the more experienced guys may have actual recommendations on actual tires to get.

Control arms - Maximum Motorsports lowers and OEM Ford uppers.

With new arms the bushings would be replaced.

Cobra brakes are cheap now, I would get those for some good 13" discs.

If you wanted a racing geared T5 they are pretty easy to find and not terribly expensive. The motors are easy to come by. The 4.2 swap is common (from the F-150) and inexpensive and adds a great deal of torque over stock.

A good refreshed motor goes a long way.

I am not sure exactly what tire I will be running yet ill have that info within the next couple days or so.


I have confirmed that I have got a hold of the the PBR ("cobra") calipers with brackets and I believe I was told 14' inch rotors. My question here is I want to go to stainless steel break lines, so how do I know which ones to get? do I still search for my year make and model?


As for control arms I have the MM arms in sight but still looking around for any better prices.

When you talk about the geared T5 are you saying to look into a 4.2 motor trans and ECU and just do a complete swap?

my first day back on track is scheduled for 7/15

 

[mcglsr2]

Is this a track-only build? What else has been done to the car or is it completely stock? Subframe connectors (SFCs) should be at the top of the list if they aren't already on the car.

On the SS brake lines, the same set will work for the Cobra front brakes and GT/V6 front brakes. Here's the fronts at Maximum Motorsports: link. They are the same part number for the 99-04 Cobra. The only difference you will see is in the rears: the SRA will use a different part number lines then the Cobra IRS.

Your rotors are most likely 13", not 14". The Cobra fronts are 13" (12.9" if we are being picky).

 

[g36 monkey]

I am not sure exactly what tire I will be running yet ill have that info within the next couple days or so.

And that's no problem, that choice will change a hundred times in the interim.

I have confirmed that I have got a hold of the the PBR ("cobra") calipers with brackets and I believe I was told 14' inch rotors. My question here is I want to go to stainless steel break lines, so how do I know which ones to get? do I still search for my year make and model?

They are 13" rotors. Stainless lines are the same. You can probably find a hydraulic shop that could make you a set locally for possibly a little less than ordering them.

As for control arms I have the MM arms in sight but still looking around for any better prices.

I am a MM fan boy, so they are always my recommendation.

When you talk about the geared T5 are you saying to look into a 4.2 motor trans and ECU and just do a complete swap?

No, I mean a T5 built for road racing. Not one out of an F-150. If not, use the trans from the mustang and swap in the 4.2 and all associated parts necessary. ECU can be tuned no problem.

my first day back on track is scheduled for 7/15

Right around the corner!

Is this a track-only build? What else has been done to the car or is it completely stock? Subframe connectors (SFCs) should be at the top of the list if they aren't already on the car.

On the SS brake lines, the same set will work for the Cobra front brakes and GT/V6 front brakes. Here's the fronts at Maximum Motorsports: link. They are the same part number for the 99-04 Cobra. The only difference you will see is in the rears: the SRA will use a different part number lines then the Cobra IRS.

Your rotors are most likely 13", not 14". The Cobra fronts are 13" (12.9" if we are being picky).

SFCs are a huge thing I forgot to mention. Thanks Scott!

 

[pgfdv6]

sorry been gone for a few days have had some minor internet problems....

Is this a track-only build? What else has been done to the car or is it completely stock? Subframe connectors (SFCs) should be at the top of the list if they aren't already on the car.
On the SS brake lines, the same set will work for the Cobra front brakes and GT/V6 front brakes. Here's the fronts at Maximum Motorsports: link. They are the same part number for the 99-04 Cobra. The only difference you will see is in the rears: the SRA will use a different part number lines then the Cobra IRS.

Your rotors are most likely 13", not 14". The Cobra fronts are 13" (12.9" if we are being picky).

As much as I would love for this to be a track only car it will be on the street for at least the rest of this year....
the car is completely stock with the exceptions of the first few things from the original post, The plugs and wires, camshaft position sensor, exhaust and intake are all that is currently on the car.


I have found a pair of sub frame connectors from SR Performance that are fairly cheap just need find some one to weld them in and I should be good there.

could anyone possibly clue me in on what the widest tire I could fit on the stock 16' rim? current tire size is 205/65/16

 

[hotmustang95]

could anyone possibly clue me in on what the widest tire I could fit on the stock 16' rim? current tire size is 205/65/16

If you can, go for a set of 17's. This way you'll clear your brakes and have an unlimited option when it comes to tires and rims. People are giving 17s away these days with more and more guys going bigger for the newer cars. A set of 17x9s will hit the spot and the widest/safest tire size for them would be 275s. Or just get a set of 17s for track and keep the 16s for daily. If they clear the cobra brakes that is, I'm not sure.

 

[pgfdv6]

If you can, go for a set of 17's. This way you'll clear your brakes and have an unlimited option when it comes to tires and rims. People are giving 17s away these days with more and more guys going bigger for the newer cars. A set of 17x9s will hit the spot and the widest/safest tire size for them would be 275s. Or just get a set of 17s for track and keep the 16s for daily. If they clear the cobra brakes that is, I'm not sure.

will keep an eye out for a set.......but are you saying that my current 16" wheels will not fit the GT/Cobra calipers that I plan to run???

 

[g36 monkey]

16 inch wheels will NOT clear the cobra brakes. even some 17 inch wheels have trouble clearing.

I would go with the MM subframe connectors. But, again, I am a fan boy. I just like their design best.

 

[OLD H2S]

Dang, you're right around corner somewhere... pm me. Silver Spring is the largest suburban town is the USA. You could be down on the D.C. line and I am 25 miles away.

 

[OLD H2S]

And the main thing, I got parts, good ones, that you will want AND welding skills now my welder is fixed.

 

[pgfdv6]

16 inch wheels will NOT clear the cobra brakes. even some 17 inch wheels have trouble clearing.

I would go with the MM subframe connectors. But, again, I am a fan boy. I just like their design best.

Damn that's gonna be a little bit of a set back. A set of tires (fairly new) on a set of 94-95 starfish rims came with my rear ended when I got it but those are 16"s also so if I dont find some replacement wheels and tires then may have to just stick with what I got and go with fresh pads and fluid....
just a little sketchy to me since my abs doesn't work worries about having the car lock up on me ....

Dang, you're right around corner somewhere... pm me. Silver Spring is the largest suburban town is the USA. You could be down on the D.C. line and I am 25 miles away.

And the main thing, I got parts, good ones, that you will want AND welding skills now my welder is fixed.

No problem sent you a pm I'm actually not to far from the D.C. Line lol.

 

[OLD H2S]

PGFD it was nice to meet you, I have talked with your dad before at Cars and Coffee and you certainly have Ford blue blood. Your racing history of running a Nissan Sentra is a good foundation for any direction you want to go. Your experience has cut out all the normal bad decisions people make when building a Mustang and that means I do not have to suffer ignorance. I will help you any way I can and in the future that might be building a set of custom heads. As a start here are some parts if you want them...

The wheels I'll go 100.00 for the set. The Steeda rear suspension kit I'll go 150.00 for. And for the future I have a heavy duty differential and a front coil over kit.

 

[g36 monkey]

Good stuff here! Mustang community pulling together!

 

[pgfdv6]

So I finally snagged the 7.5 out and got the 8.8 in with everything replaced yesterday.
My car has developed a tick in the exhaust manifold so I went a head grabbed a set of gasket to put on to find out that my driver side manifold the very first flange has completely broken off so my question is would it be worth to spring for a set of aftermarket headers or would I be wasting my money?


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[OLD H2S]

Post a picture of it and we will let you know.

 

[g36 monkey]

Aftermarket shorties are not worth the trouble. The stock manifolds flow very well. If you want long tubes some benefit can be seen there, but you are probably still better off with the manifolds for bottom end power since the car is being built for track use.

 

[pgfdv6]

just going to be sourcing a stock manifold from the junk yard for now have not found anything that seems to be worth spending the money. turns out the pbr brake set up that ive got was missing a caliper bracket so had to order one.

so far I have got the 8.8 rear installed (still dont know what gearing?)

Rear upper & lower control arms installed

Rear Tokico shocks installed (think the driver side one is loose i can move it back and forth with my hand I tighten the nut as much as I could wile holding the top with a wrench)

Rear steeda springs installed

245/45/17 rear tires installed

Corbeau Harness Bar installed

I've still got a long way to go with just about a month to go before track day and am definitely having a few set backs as usual, still have all usual maintenance to complete also so its gonna be close call once registration opens up.

 

[g36 monkey]

I just went through your pain, today! With the rear shock, you need to hit it with an impact. Really the only way you will get it tightened down all the way.

 

[pgfdv6]

I just went through your pain, today! With the rear shock, you need to hit it with an impact. Really the only way you will get it tightened down all the way.

I actually hit it with an impact first and it begun to spin on me so I switched to a set of wrenches and still can't seem to get it right. I'm observing if there is some hard wear or bushing or something I'm missing because one side came complete and the other didn't so I pieced together a nut and some washers with the rubber pieces taken from my old shocks.


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