Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

Snorky

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Greetings and salutations. This is a new project i have started, it is a change from my green turbo 2v which i mostly have documented on moddedmustangs. The goal of this project is to have a unique cruiser. Will not be a strip car or a racer.. have the turbo mustang for those shenanigans.

It will be a PI 2v 6.8L v10 build. I picked up the engine and began the tear down last summer. This will be a picture heavy thread. Disassembled the long block, the rust was atrocious as this engine was picked from some giant F350 farm truck in rochester NY. I started descaling the block and as you can see from the photos i made a lot of head way. Only the descaler went through a water jacket. I tapped the hole 1/8 NPT and plugged it. My better judgement forced me to go back to the drawing board. So i moved forward in other areas.20210410_125301.jpg20210410_125308.jpg20210410_195448.jpg
 

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Snorky

Snorky

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So as you can see the descaling was going really well until i put hole through the water jacket. On a positive note, the brand new 4v high volume oil pump i had laying around for the last 6 years lines up perfectly on the snout of the v10 crank. I will have to either A... order a second cobra pickup tube since i will need to weld two of them together for this concoction, or B... shorten the v10 truck pan. Which will also cure the more than likely ground clearance issue of the pan.20210815_112315.jpg20210828_201251.jpg
 

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Snorky

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Disassembled the shortblock, used an engraver to number the rod caps with the direction towards the front. Made it simple for myself. Just did front of the crank to the back 1-10. Bought about 20 cans of brake klean, a giant tote, a bag of brass brushes, 3 gallons of acetone and went to work scrubbing the rods, pistons, crank shaft, disassembled the heads and scrubbed those. The exhaust valves are heavily pitted, but the intake valves cleaned right up. Brought the crankshaft to the machine shop for grinding or polishing.
 

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lwarrior1016

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Hey man, way to break the door down and show off a build! That’s going to be awesome.

That poor block has seen much better days and I hope it doesn’t give you any issues later.

Do you have any pictures of what it’s going in? What’s your plan to control the engine electronics?
 
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The haggered block has seen better days, the inside looks great though! Note the orientation of the crank shims. You can also see the wear on the piston skirts. This truck had 180k miles on it and was still running when pulled, this thing lived a really hard life on that farm. Strangely enough, all of the piston bores still had cross hatching. That really impressed me. I started shopping around for a few items, so my efforts moved towards other areas.
 

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Snorky

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Yeah. You will see more as i continur to wirte and do picture dumps.

As for what it is going in, i plan to put it into a 1994/1995 mustang since i am tired of dealing with emissions and inspection with my turbo 2v new edge. I havent purchased the car yet for 2 reasons.. 1. I want the right car and 2. Its easier to store an engine without a car than a car without an engine.

The round body will preferably have any color interior other than black.. or grey. Looking for red, white, or saddle. Verts and coupes are both on the table.

For engine management my options are either an entire wiring harness/ecu out of a superduty plus an sct tuner. Or an ms3pro/holley dominator with a custom harness.
 
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Used the sandblaster at work to clean up the intake manifold and rear main seal plate. Then got to work powdercoating with prismatic powders colors. The intake manifold is 3 coats of cosmic blue, with 3 coats of aqua clearcoat. The rear main seal plate i decided to experiment with the second runner up color(which after i did it i liked it more) since it wouldnt be seen anyway. The resr main seal plate is done with 3 coats of heavy silver and 3 coats of aqua clear. Very cool!IMG_20211024_173809201.jpg
 

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Snorky

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Timing cover and water neck sandblasted and powdercoated cosmic blue with aqua clear to match the intake manifold.

Here are the pictures of the factory valves cleaned up, as you can see the i take valves are respectable while the exhaust valves are kind of ****ed. So.. me being me. I ordered +1mm manley SS i take and exhaust valves. And a set of Brian tooley extreme .600" lift valve springs, yep.. 20 valves and 20 springs. Lol
 

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Snorky

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The cut exhaust manifold studs needed to come out, so i torched them and carefully ground a clearance with a grinder for a vice grip. Extracted the studs on both manifolds. Sand blasted the exhaust manifolds, and primed/painted them with 2000° primer and matte aluminum.

Then i sand blasted the giant oil pan. What a pain in the ass. Was still only half as much of a pain in the ass as the intake manifold. That giant tortoise took up 90% of the blast cabinet. Sand blasted the water pump pulley, pressed the bearing out of the idler pulley and blasted that and the harmonic balancer as well.

The oil pan, water pump pulley and idler will be powdercoated to match the intake and timing cover, only it is 20° outside so it will have to wait till the weather warms up. The harmonic balancer i have some special high temp ceramic paint coming for that, the block, the valve covers, intake elbow, throttle body and plenum.
 

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NEURON

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Never seen a block that bad before, you must have got a great deal on it. Nice write up and pictures!
 
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Snorky

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Never seen a block that bad before, you must have got a great deal on it. Nice write up and pictures!
Yeah, i did get a good deal, i wisu i had spent 3 times more for a better engine though, but i digress these things snowball out of control no matter what you do. You will see when i sit down to continue writing my progress.
Good to see you over here!
Hey man, i didnt know this forum had this much traffic over moddedmustangs. That poor forum is dead.
 

07GtS197

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Yeah, i did get a good deal, i wisu i had spent 3 times more for a better engine though, but i digress these things snowball out of control no matter what you do. You will see when i sit down to continue writing my progress.

Hey man, i didnt know this forum had this much traffic over moddedmustangs. That poor forum is dead.
It’s a shame it got that way but what are you going to do. At least here there’s quite a bit of traffic and a lot of knowledge.
 
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Snorky

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Cafefully Sandblasted the water pump.. that took a lot of tape. Lol figured 5050 shot. Either would fuck the bearings or not....But they still feel great! Cleaned it all out.

Also!! Crank is clean only required a micro polish. So no undersize bearings needed.
 

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FullstackViking

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Always wanted to see one of these built and revved into the 7/8k region. I bet they would sound great.
 
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Snorky

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Always wanted to see one of these built and revved into the 7/8k region. I bet they would sound great.

Im aiming for 6500 rpm, keeping it in the ball park of realism. LoL. That is a lot of mass spinning around. These motors seem to scream at 5k.
 
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So.. to adress the elephant in the thread.. the block. I decided to write off the block. In the mail today came a nice set of OEM style -7cc pistons. This will give me a nice compression bump to 10:1 over the factory 8.9:1 compression with the -17cc slugs. I wanted to go 11:1 with flat tops.. but it would require me to either A. Buy 2 sets of v8 pistons, or B. Buy after market forged units... which i considered along with aftermarket rods but that would really invite this project to a whole new realm of expenditure. IE:OPEN THE GATEWAY TO BOOST!!! Thought about it and said F that.. put a cap on it with oem rotating assemly and keep it NA. So anyway. Here is a brand new block from ford. As well as a few cans of eastwood 2k high temp primer.20211116_165435.jpg
 

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lwarrior1016

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Hey, I’m glad to see you got a new block. I was worried about the other one. I didn’t know Ford still sold those blocks new.
 

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