Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

07GtS197

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Laser red is a three stage paint. It’s a base, candy and clear. It’s not cheap. My first Mustang was a 98 v6 convertible in laser red.
 

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According to the painter the German brand of paint he used is a 2 stage. According to a lot of other sources laser is a 3 stage. So.. perhaps ze Germans made it easier to apply and less prone to fading. Either WaY I love it!!!

I

I'll let you know as soon as I finish the install. Haha went to the mills mansion car show in stattsburg ny with my family today. :)
My input from actually working in the collision industry. There are both 2 and three stage laser reds and ruby reds now. It wasn't always that way though. Depending on the paint manufacturer; some companies have a formula that mixes the pearl into the clear. Heck with the camera matching technology they use these days, most painters arent even using the code off the car, they're snapping a photo with the formula camera and picking the closest generated formula. My car is e8 but we actually used a honda paint code on the hood, panel paint and it matched. I've used said camera on GM's mid 2000's offwhite, matched perfect. same with a silver grand am (unheard of before the camera, silver is a PITA).
 

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Car finally received a full wash and I was able to clean out the interior. I got the new lexanis mounted and balanced. Changed an inner tie rod end and added the qa1 tapered bumpsteer kit. Car is at the alignment shop awaiting its alignment. I put the seals back in on the A pillars as well as the interior trim, the floor kick plates, knee plate and glove box. I also changed the rear 1/4 window top seals since those were shot. Also fixed an old sequential kit I used to have on my green car and it is now residing in red car with the appropriate flasher for halogens. Eventually I will do an led conversion. Still need to put in the air bag module or replace it since I broke the module side plug end accidentally pulling it out like a savage. View attachment 37523View attachment 37524View attachment 37527

I will have a top put on it then I have to go back and align the doors a little bit better. Ie. Take the bumper and fenders off which were perfect and start over lol. The rear tops of the doors stick out slightly which appears to be causing all of the issues with window alignment. But the verdict is still out on it. I am waiting on an LMR order for a new hood latch cable since somehow the mounting bracket to the foot well on mine sheared in half so it hangs like a donkey d***. Prop rod clips since the rod wants to exit out the front of the hood when down. 1" hubcentric bolt on wheel spacers since the rear fr500s have some god awful sunken in offset. A new wheel speed sensor and speedo gear clip since my speedometer stopped working after my last adventure in there. And new door window inner and outer seals/outer 1/4 window seals. Figured I should just get it all done.
How satisfied are you with that tire/wheel combo?
 
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How satisfied are you with that tire/wheel combo?
The used black chrome fr500s I really like. Hopefully they will last another few years before pitting and going south lol. Thr lexani tires I am really enjoying. Considering they are a budget friendly ebay tire. They're not half bad. Have great rain siping. I am actually quite surprised how soft they are. They are pretty quiet from what I can tell, but then again they are in a convertible so that may wash out any noise. Overall I would buy them again, been using the car almost everyday.
 
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Soldered my wiring pig tails to the adapters. Ran the remote turn on cable. Rca cables, and the bass adjustment cables under the carpet as well as the main power cable through a grommet in the firewall and under the carpet and mounted the inline fuse over the fuse box.and left the pig tail hanging out there. 20241022_212858.jpg

20241024_183221.jpg cut the 3 tabs off. Drilled and and screwed apl the new brackets together for the new head unit to mount to.
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Now the speakers work off of the new head unit, and the remote turn on for the amp is dead headed into the trunk where I need to finish work there. I added the new Metra bezel which fits like a glove for the conversion.
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Then the bass control switch I mounted in the glove box at a slightly inconvenient place so I won't adjust it while drivingResized_20241104_143653.jpeg

I purchased some 1/2" mdf, made a template and jig sales it out for a trunk floor. Need to finish working on it. More to come laterResized_20241031_150811.jpeg

I ordered an Amazon 1000 piece interior clip set, lol had a lot of ones I have been missing. So I mounted up the rear interior 1/4 panels and then mounted the back seat. Feels so good having a full interior again!!@@ aldo on a bright note. It's been over 90 days now. So I need to schedule a date with a buddy who knows how to compound polish. Then I can give the exterior the last touches.
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a bass knob you don't fiddle with while driving? The secret is to put it in a place where you hand rests naturally so you can get it with out looking. I would be looking at that nice wide area below the deck. I put my remote radar detector controls and some usb ports I need access to there. I would post a pic but the computer they are on is in the shop right now.
 
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a bass knob you don't fiddle with while driving? The secret is to put it in a place where you hand rests naturally so you can get it with out looking. I would be looking at that nice wide area below the deck. I put my remote radar detector controls and some usb ports I need access to there. I would post a pic but the computer they are on is in the shop right now.
This is true. I am attempting ro remove distractions while driving lol. Too many nowadays. I like your logic though.
 
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Wrapped the mdf trunk floor. That was a bit of a challenge. At least the top looks half way decent.20241108_183119.jpg

Next I am planning out the piece that will have the sub and amp mounted to it. Cannot decide of I shoulder center the sub or the board. Board will be wrapped as well.20241108_200256.jpg
 
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Small update for the trunk project. Measured out and cut the mdf board as so.20241110_083029.jpg

Then proceeded to try my skills at wrapping it. 20241111_191212.jpg

And this is how the amp will sit. Allowing some breathing room under it for the little fan.20241111_191342.jpg

I forgot to bring home a 9/32 drill bit so I am waiting for tomorrow to drill and install the thread inserts for amp mounting. Then I will use sheet rock/wood screws to go up from underneath to hold the subwoofer down to the board. Then I an drill pilot holes in each corner of the board. This will be used when finding out the position for the mounting screws to go.
 
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Remembered the drill bit from work yesterday. The 10-32 wood inserts needed a 9/32 bit. So I marked out and installed the inserts for the amplifier20241112_172231.jpg
Then installed as such 20241112_172635.jpg

Then I measured out how I wanted to lay the sub on the board. Although ttocs being 100% right about the orientation. It would unfortunately make using tye trunk a bit more challenging. I will give this setup a go. If I hate it. I'll go with ttocs advice. Hard part is finished. Ie. The big floor board lol

Anyway. Drilled pilot holes and used flat head wood screws from underneath to secure it.20241112_180249.jpg
The mounting board is roughly laid ou over the floor for round about representation.20241112_181245.jpg
 
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All finished, installed with hand knobs for simple sub/amp board removal if needed. Havent played with the settings much, just set them to the middle range and it sounds great. Exactly the sound quality I was looking for. :) it almost looks professional too! Have another update later to write up. I am in Spencer, Iowa this week for work.
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If I could give one recommendation for security, the way you have done it is super clean/neat and it is nice how easy it is to remove if you decide to. The bad part of that is that the system your using to mount it requires no tools, the fasteners are easy to see and get to and if someone decided that they liked it more than you do, they can yank it out in no time just like you can. If it were mine, I would hide at LEAST one screw, if not two screws maybe on the end of the box, between the box/amp. That carpet is VERY easy to do this with, just take a box knife and make a 1/4" cut in the carpet and then peel the carpet back enough to throw a screw in the middle. If you use the right countersinking screws that stop flush with the surface, you can just move the carpet right back over them and you will never see them unless you are looking. With a drill it would only take you maybe 10 seconds to pull them out but those two could be the only thing that keeps it in your trunk.
 
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Update on the exterior. Fitted the carbon fiber saleen wing. 3m double tape and the 4 bolts. Shaved the winglets a little for clearance and adjusted the decklid spring stoppers as well as the striker.
Overall i am very pleased with the fit and finish on this wing.

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Added the cobra R delete plug and mounted the fender emblems. Gave it a good wash and she's looking slick! Can see the dakota fogs as well. :) the einglets hug nicely to the fenders, hence having to clearance and adjust the stops so much. 20241110_154129.jpg20241110_154144.jpg
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Now here you can really see the laser dynamics with the varying light from the clouds coming over. Plus you can see the carbon fiber in the sun.20241112_093322.jpg20241112_093318.jpg20241112_093237.jpg20241112_093258.jpg
 
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After work i was a little bored and antsy so i got to it. 10 min. Here 5 min there.. the part of the center console that surrounds the magnet was broken so I ended up epoxying it back together as well as a few of the studs in the armrest lid. Now in its repaired, assembled state :) nice having something there instead of seeing the E brake mechanism. Now the interior is 95%complete. On the to do list are visors, (went through 2 sets of used ones and the clips all broke from removing the rods despite not being a savage.) I may end up biting the bullet and buying a pair from lmr and inserting the rods. Hopefully that will work since I guess the others are all old and brittle and plastic. The 4 other areas are
-The door seal around the mirror mount needs to be adjusted.
-floor matts perhaps? never been a floor matt guy, but I'm doing this car differently.
-find a chrome shift handle
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It’s coming along nicely!
It needs a good vacuum. I am antsy to get back to the v10 part of the project but I need to get an engine back together and into my green car before I can continue on with that monkey business
 

07GtS197

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It needs a good vacuum. I am antsy to get back to the v10 part of the project but I need to get an engine back together and into my green car before I can continue on with that monkey business
Regardless it’s still really clean. I wish my cars were that clean lol.
 

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