Front Suspension Rebuild - more advice needed!

delling3

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So, starting a companion thread to the "rear suspension rebuild" thread started a few days ago.

In front, I am installing new OE lower control arms, struts, and springs with isolators, and CC plates. The struts did not come with any bumpstop. I "think" it's a bad idea to not run any bump stop, and was going to transfer the bump stop off my existing struts to the new ones, but I was talking with someone who suggested that I leave the bumpstops off altogether - that otherwise I will be limiting my suspension travel too much.

Would appreciate any comments/experiences you may have. I am expecting a total drop of 1.25 - 1.5" when complete, FYI.
 

Silver95bird

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if you're lowering a car that low, you'll be missing the bump stops at every pothole. If your roads are like those in PA, that means every 5 feet. I'd keep the bump stops.

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Chris Stephens

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Keep the bumpstops. If your CC plates are MM, you gain a lot of bump travel back. If they aren't MM CC, get those ;)

You need to be more clear in the post, too. It reads as though you're installing OE struts, springs, etc. But then it sounds like you just meant OE control arms, since you're expecting a drop. That being the case, give us part numbers on what you're installing. Are you installing Fox struts or struts made for lowered vehicles?

Also, Steeda makes a ball joint that's taller than OE and gets the control arms back closer to straight. I've never used them, but the logic and use is sound.
 
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delling3

delling3

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I am replacing the original control arms with an OEM replacement part (MOOG). I found an online source that had them on sale, allowing me to buy complete control arms for less than the cost of just replacement bushings and ball-joints, and I save the hassle of changing the out the bits.

I am installing BBK lowering springs, with Tokico struts. The CC plates are UPR's 4-bolt type, which I sourced from someone on the forum.
 

joe65

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Found this for reference:

QA1. TECH TIP: Bump stops are an important and often neglected suspension piece that can save parts and improve ride quality. The purpose of a bump stop is to limit suspension travel by making contact before any other suspension component makes contact with something that may cause damage.
 

Chris Stephens

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I am replacing the original control arms with an OEM replacement part (MOOG). I found an online source that had them on sale, allowing me to buy complete control arms for less than the cost of just replacement bushings and ball-joints, and I save the hassle of changing the out the bits.

I am installing BBK lowering springs, with Tokico struts. The CC plates are UPR's 4-bolt type, which I sourced from someone on the forum.

Gotcha. Then yes, go ahead and use the bump stops. Tokicos don't have one built in like some of the Bilsteins do.

You may have to do some..."custom fitment" to get good thread engagement on the top of the strut. I've never used those CC plates, though, so idk.

You can also preemptively cut the bumpstop down some if you think there is going to be an issue where you will be on yours a lot.

I am on Tokico Illumina's with Steeda 650lb springs in front. I have a lot of nosedive under heavy braking (full race pads, normal rears) and cornering, but mine have never been an issue.

Resized Nosedive.jpg
Resized Nosedive 2.jpg Resized Cornering.jpg

Not a problem street driving, either, for what it's worth.

I'm on 275/35/18 Falken Azenis RT615K+, they're sticky and fairly firm sidewalls...no problems even on bumpy-a** Arkansas roads. I mean, don't get me wrong, they don't ride like a Caddy...but nothing unmanageable and needing bumpstops all the time either.

where are the original bump stops? anyone got a pic?

Scroll down on this page and you can see the factory style. They are built into the strut.

Here's the pic from the link, too:
koni-str-strut-mustang-install-004.jpg
 

Warhorse Racing

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The bump stop on the front struts is actually a rubber bushing that goes on the strut shaft. It is meant to protect the body of the shock from hitting metal in the event the suspension completely bottoms out.

The picture in the previous post is of the strut top mount and bushing. The bump stop would be hidden behind the plastic dust boot.

It's always a good idea to use the bump stops, especially if you plan on using the car for performance driving.
 

Chris Stephens

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The bump stop on the front struts is actually a rubber bushing that goes on the strut shaft. It is meant to protect the body of the shock from hitting metal in the event the suspension completely bottoms out.

The picture in the previous post is of the strut top mount and bushing. The bump stop would be hidden behind the plastic dust boot.

It's always a good idea to use the bump stops, especially if you plan on using the car for performance driving.

Interesting...I did not remember that. I thought there was a rubber bushing on the underside of the dust boot. When the strut got to the max travel, it would hit that. I guess I need to look again. I don't recall there being a "loose" bump stop on the strut rod.
 

Warhorse Racing

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I know the bump stops are "loose" on my 2004 V6 and my 2000 GT. It wouldn't surprise me if Ford used a different version at some point. Maybe the 94-98 cars are different.

LMR sells poly bump stops and there is a video on their site (about installing new struts) that shows the bump stop as a separate piece that slides over the strut shaft.
 
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delling3

delling3

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Well, I can concur with Warhorse. Attached pic is what came out of my car. On the left is the rubber bushing that was in the strut mount plate. The middle piece is the "bump stop" which was installed on the strut shaft but was covered by the dustcover on the right.

IMG_0101 (002).jpg

The dustcover does have a metal/rubber composite fitting to which the plastic tube is affixed with a steel clamp. According to instructions from UPR (CC Plate manufacturer, I need to discard the dust cover, but retain the bump stop. And obviously the rubber bushing gets discarded with the OE strut mount plate. This means the strut won't have a dust cover, which I find a bit concerning (and Tokico specifically states will void the warranty). It is clear that the factory dustcovers will not fit. Should I try to source some bellows style covers?
 

Warhorse Racing

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I just read the instructions for the 4-bolt UPR CC Plates. I think it's odd that their design doesn't allow the dust cover to fit.

Personally, I wouldn't risk voiding the warranty on expensive struts. It's probably a good idea to find a cover that will work.

As a last resort, if you don't ever plan on using coil-overs on your car, 3-bolt CC Plates will work fine. I use 3-bolt Steeda CC Plates on all my cars with Tokico struts and the OEM dust covers.

Maximum Motorsports 4-bolt CC Plates require modifying the dust covers, but they do retain the covers. UPR makes what they call "shark" CC Plates; the instructions for those CC Plates don't mention removing the dust covers.
 
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delling3

delling3

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Well, if I didn't already have the CC plates, I might do something differently.

I think that a bellows style like on the Bilsteins would work. Just need to find the correct size. Seems like all I am finding are for trucks, and the diameter of the openings are too large.
 
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delling3

delling3

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Also, anyone know where to find the bumpstop themselves? Someone installed the wrong bump stop on one side of my car. It was larger both on the I.D. and the O.D. and it's all chewed to hell. Can't even find a listing for a "bump stop" or anything remotely like it at the autopart store, or on rock auto.
 
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delling3

delling3

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Gawd I am tired of COVID related parts shortages!!!

Found a set of Energy Suspension bump stops on Amazon. LMR has them but are out of stock. Same with Summit Racing, and everyone else I could think of. They hopefully will arrive by the end of the week? What the hell happened to fast shipping anyway.

As for the dust boots, I found a set of Moog rack and pinion bellows that look like they will work nicely. 2" O.D. at the base and .7" on the other - just a very slight stretch fit on either end.

Fingers crossed!
 
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delling3

delling3

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Ok, so I have everything bolted in and the car is back on four wheels (for a short while, anyway). The only think not yet done is to torque the front control arm pivots. I went with new OEM control arms (rubber bushings), and everything I read was not to torque the control arm bolts until the car was at "normal ride height" or risk damaging the new bushings. Thinking about driving the car up on ramps to slither under and torque the bolts - anyone have a better idea (that doesn't include a drive-on lift!).

Thanks!
 

Adfalenski

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Jack the car and put jack stands under control arms next to the ball joints. It will give you room under the car and still load the suspension. Whenever working on the rear suspension, Do the same thing for the rear. If you have a solid rear axle, put the jack stands under the axle tubes near the lower shock mounts.
 
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delling3

delling3

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I was worried about the being under the car with jackstands under the control arms. No issue on the frame rails, but the control arms seem a little less secure. I used a set of ramps to get the car up in the air. Even then I wasn't able to pull enough torque on the bolts with my 1/2 drive torque wrench (laying flat on my back). I didn't have enough space to use my 2 foot breaker bar. I am going to take it to the alignment shop after I finish the rear suspension, and have them torque the bolts from the pit while it's on the alignment rack.
 

outdare

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You can stack say some 2x6's under the tires then torque the suspension.

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