FRPP Aluminum driveshaft

Thomas_W

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Has anyone installed a Ford racing aluminum Driveshaft? The 99 i have has one and im 99% sure its way to long. I was hoping it was just worn bushinga in the control arms causing it, but after putting new control arms in, its even worse. With the suspension at full droop, there is about 1/4" gap between the driveshaft and pinion flanges. I'm used to seeing atleast 1/2" preferable 1". Anyone have any similar problems?

with the adjustable control arms, i do have the ability to move the axle back 1/2-1" (the axle C/L is current 3/4" closer to the front of the wheel opening than the rear with weight on the suspension). Maybe i should try that before dropping the $$$ to have the shaft shortened.
 

the5.ohh

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I have a FRPP Aluminum D/S. Never had any issues, lined up perfectly. My uppers are J&M, non-adjustable. However if you can move the rear end some and it won't affect anything else, that should do the trick. If not, I'd call up where ya got it from and see if they'd send another or cover the bill to shorten it.
 
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Thomas_W

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Unfortunately it was installed on the car when i bought it. Even without the non adjustable control arms is was to long. Looks like next weekend i'll be doing some wheel base changes (currently the lowers are set to the same length as stock 96-98 lowers.... Long story, dont ask)
 
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Unfortunately it was installed on the car when i bought it. Even without the non adjustable control arms is was to long. Looks like next weekend i'll be doing some wheel base changes (currently the lowers are set to the same length as stock 96-98 lowers.... Long story, dont ask)

*resisting the urge to ask* :hidesbehindsofa:
 

lwarrior1016

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Whats wrong with it being so close to the rear? I know it determines how far the slip is pushed into the trans, but it shouldnt cause any issues?
 
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Thomas_W

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Whats wrong with it being so close to the rear? I know it determines how far the slip is pushed into the trans, but it shouldnt cause any issues?

There should be enough slip at the trans end to allow for it to move in and out as the suspension moves. With the driveshaft slid completely into the trans, there is near zero (1/4" or less) for it to slip.
 

lwarrior1016

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There should be enough slip at the trans end to allow for it to move in and out as the suspension moves. With the driveshaft slid completely into the trans, there is near zero (1/4" or less) for it to slip.

Ah, I see. I understand now.
 

DKblue98GT

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Will your upper and lower control arms allow you to adjust the axle far enough back for it to work?

Scary about the control arm bolts.
 
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Thomas_W

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Will your upper and lower control arms allow you to adjust the axle far enough back for it to work?

Scary about the control arm bolts.

They should. Im going to try 1/2" at first, that should out the tire in the middle of the wheel well at its current ride height. That Might be enough to get the movement i need at the transmission.
 

chris91

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Just picked up a Ford Racing shaft today myself. I'll report back when I install to let ya know how much play is in mine.
 

ttocs

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Do you really want to be playing with the control arms to get it to fit? Seems like that could change the thrust angle alignment? From what I understand a driveshaft install should be about as easy as they come. If that isn't the case here then something bigger might/must be wrong.....
 
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Thomas_W

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Do you really want to be playing with the control arms to get it to fit? Seems like that could change the thrust angle alignment? From what I understand a driveshaft install should be about as easy as they come. If that isn't the case here then something bigger might/must be wrong.....

All four of my control arms are adjustable with solid bushings. That gives me the ability to change the pinion angle to whatever value i want.

The driveshaft install should be fairly simple, but with the wrong rear control arms, 3v engine swap and the general Lack of quality and attention to detail on everything by the person who did the work originally, i cant be certain they didnt screw something up.
 

DKblue98GT

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The one I put in my GT Has been perfect for the last 40,000 miles. I am going to put it in the cobra this weekend. Yours is a different story altogether...
I hope it works out, they make the car pretty smooth.
 

ttocs

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that is my point. You have no idea what adjusting them is doing to the trust angle just that you are able to get them to attach to the axle. I would recommend an alignment including the thrust angle as soon as its back on the road.
 
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Thomas_W

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that is my point. You have no idea what adjusting them is doing to the trust angle just that you are able to get them to attach to the axle. I would recommend an alignment including the thrust angle as soon as its back on the road.

Thrust angle is easy enough to measure. You just need to use a fixed point in both sides. For instance, the forward face of the Forward control arm mount flange. Use that to measure to a symmetric point along the rear axle.

When i originally setup the lowers and uppers, one was setup to the length of the arms that were removed, then the other was fully assembled with a 14mm bolt running through both arms rear bushings and then the second arm adjusted to the point that a 14mm bolt would slide through all of the forward heim joints and spacers on both lower arms easily. This ensures both arms are equal. No gaurantee there isnt some funkiness in the frame though.

The car does need an alignment, but i have to get the driveshaft issue fixed so as not to destroy the thrust bearing surfaces in the trans.
 
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Thomas_W

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I took today off to do some last minute items before a job interview on Friday. I got most everything i needed done, done early so i figured i would take the time to look at this driveshaft thing as it has been driving me nuts.

I removed the lower control arms and extended them by 4 turns each. Then reinstalled them. Using one of the front A arm mount tabs, i measured to the rear shock mount on the rear axle. 104 3/16" +/- 1/32" on both sides. Works for me! I then reset the pinion angle to -1.5* compared to the crank C/L.

This is the result:




as you can see, the trans seal is a little blunt, thats from it rubbing the front face of the yoke i believe. Before extending the control arms the entire yoke was slid into the trans. This is almost exactly 1" and what I am used to seeing.
Now its off to recalibrate the cobra gauge cluster speedo (it reads 10mph higher than actual)
 

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