Full 04 2V to 96 swap (detailed)....a couple issues I really need help with

[Wyldhorse]

Well first off I swapped a 2004 Gt engine into my 96. The engine bolts to an 02 4r70w that I've had in for years (pins swapped and everything). that's just to let you know what's pushing me.

What we've done to the engine:

• Stock internals

• 04 valve covers and we've replaced the heated sensor on the left side cover with a regular sensor.(it's the same thing just no electrical connection)

• We've done the normal stuff for PI swap:

• used my 96 harness
• 96 oil pan (due to the sensors in the 96)
• 96 fuel rails
• 96 coil packs

• We swapped the 04 water pump with the 96 water pump so that I could use the underdrive pulleys I originally had

• 96-98 UPR Off road X-pipe with MIL's

• TR55 NGK Plugs

• Ford Racing plug wires

• MAC CAI with the stock 96 MAF

I believe that should give you some info on the motor. I don't think I left anything out.

Here's some pictures to show vacuum routing etc if it helps.

Now, the issues right now are:

• Driver's side exhaust leak where the X-pipe bolts to the manifold
• low idle/no idle
• Doesn't feel like it's running 100%
• stuttering under light consistent throttle
• CEL codes:
  • P0156 - Heated oxygen sensor bank sensor 2
  • P1152 - Lack of o2 switches - bank 2 sensor 1 - rich
  For the exhaust leak, I've ordered the insert from UPR that is suppose to fix that leak. I've looked around online and saw that a leak at this location could cause the car not to run right, and throw codes. Would fixing this exhaust leak possibly fix both codes related to o2 sensors?
  
  next, the car idles low, and sometimes it doesn't idle at all. It's almost like there's a problem with the IAC, but I don't want to buy the part only to find out it's not the issue. The low idle could just be because it needs a tune. I can deal with the low idle until a tune, but I can't deal with no idle. Coming up to stop lights and not knowing if the car will cut off or not isn't quite fun.
  
  as for it not running 100%, don't get me wrong..it does feel strong, but it feels a little sluggish in the low RPMs under throttle. It's only for a bit until it hits 1500rpm or so. The exhaust leak could also be helping to the problem here.
  
  The stuttering....If I'm cruising at 45 or 50 in Drive (this is where I notice it the most) the car is a bit jerky. It's very slight, but it's just enough to where it's not smooth and holding at a certain RPM.
  
  Now, the CEL codes. Possible causes listed under the scan for P0156:
  • oxygen sensor defective
  • system running very rich or lean
  • engine misfire condition
  • fuel pressure very high or low or fuel pump or pressure regulator
  
  We had a bit of an issue getting the vacuum ran right for the EGR stuff, but I think we have it right now so I don't see how that would be an issue, unless it's still off. the o2 sensors aren't new, but they weren't causing an issue before the swap.
  
  Possible causes listed under the scan for P1152:
  • fuel pressure high
  • egr stuck open
  • "engine mechanical condition"
  
  I tried to be as detailed as possible so I wouldn't leave anything open and you guys could get a good idea of what I'm working with.
  
  I hope someone can help me trouble shoot this stuff. I'm not sure where to start. I'm hoping fixing the exhaust leak will help with some of this stuff.

 

[Wyldhorse]

no ideas?

 

[jfor441]

You have to troubleshoot one step at a time. On Corral, you mentioned that you had a gasket or something coming from UPR to fix that exhaust leak. When that gets there. p[ut it on and see if that clears up issues. The low idle/no idle sounds like the IAC. Are you sure it is connected? Are you sure it is working like it is supposed to? have you tried cleaning it? They aren't that expensive so run down to your local auto parts store and buy it and put it on and see if it fixes the issue.

How many miles are on the O2 sensors? They generally need to be replaced every 60,000 miles. If you have more than 60,000 miles replace them. Don't go with the Bosch O2's you get from Advance or Napa. Go with what Ford sells.

Do you have a tuner? Just block off the EGR and have it turned off in your computer. That or look into replacing the EGR.

 

[jfor441]

You also mentioned on Corral something about an idle screw? Don't adjust that. That is your TPS. Make sure your voltage on the TPS is between .90 volts and 1 volt. That can also cause an idle problem.

 

[Wyldhorse]

Since the iac came on this engine it's possible that it's bad. I'm going to clean the maf and iac, replace the o2's and install the exhaust sleeve and go from there.

No tuner right now. I'm going to try and get it as good as it's capable of now and tune it all together when I get the blower.

So check the voltage on the tps? I'll have to do that. What if it's off?

 

[vermilion]

the gasket will not do much alone but cause a sewing machine sound. please use the flat felpro replacement gasket. the metal o-ring grooved ones from fords head changing kit tend to leak unless you use copper rtv as a security blanket. for the iac gasket i recommend using the black permatex gasket maker. its high temp it works superb. the egr you can use the copper with a home made thing sheet metal gasket.(light coat). the o2s you can replace with motorcraft or go to parts store and get the NTK sensors about 43 a piece. they are also NOT side specific. sometimes MILS throw codes anyhow for upstream o2s. if you dont have a tuner you might want to get one now. not detrimental yet but to get the most out of your engine it is a great tool. my last recommendation for fixing more kinks is a true wideband.

 

[Wyldhorse]

well here's what I've done so far. I went and got throttle body/intake cleaner and cleaned out the IAC, and I got MAF cleaner to clean that.....no change.

It idles on a cold start, but as soon as I turn the car off after it's warmed up it will die after I start it again (just like IAC problem.) I still can try replacing the IAC and seeing if that works, but I know when the IAC went bad on my NPI engine a while back, it wouldn't idle from a cold start, but usually would once it warmed up. I'll try that and see how it goes, and change out the o2's tomorrow when I fix the exhaust leak.

After that, I'm taking it to the shop to have them check it out if nothing's changed.

but I have another question. I may have heard it and never payed attention to it, but as I was starting the car after it would shut off, there was a release of pressure coming out of the upper plenum through the IAC (imagine a blow off sound). Is this normal? if no would it be possibly because the IAC is stuck or something? or is it suppose to be a sudden release like it is, or a gradual release?

Also, there's a constant low pitch tone coming from the filter area it seems. Any ideas what this could be?

 

[vermilion]

it is normal. the egr is opening to release excess gases. and resonation of air from valves. nothing to be alarmed. if you could video this sound i could determine better. like say sit the cam on the fender closes to the plenum and shut it off.

 

[Wyldhorse]

it is normal. the egr is opening to release excess gases. and resonation of air from valves. nothing to be alarmed. if you could video this sound i could determine better. like say sit the cam on the fender closes to the plenum and shut it off.

I thought I've heard it before, it's just one of those things I never payed attention to. I can still get a video/sound clip of that fairly easy.

 

[Wyldhorse]

well a little update. I installed the UPR cup/reducer/sleeve..whatever you want to call it, and it took care of the leak. I don't feel the sputtering anymore and it seems to pull consistant at speed.

I still have an issue with the idle. It idles fine (a little low) when it's cold and stays running for as long as I drive it. As soon as I cut the car off and try to start it again, it dies. Cleaning the IAC didn't work, so I'm going to try to replace it.

 

[Wyldhorse]

well, another update.....car runs great right now. No codes so far after changing upstream o2's.

I think there could be a loose ground or something because the power will die all of the sudden occasionally when I stop (not like stalling)

I have a new IAC, but when I got home yesterday after getting it, I turned the car off and expecting it to die I started the car again and it idled. I did it again a few times and it kept idling. I drove it today and I shut it off and turned it back on and it idled fine again. So, I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if it really is the IAC.

 

[vermilion]

check the grounds at the power distribution box. thats literally next to the headers. make sure those are secure. if you swapped engine you probably removed that connection. it has a slide door.

 

[Wyldhorse]

yeah we removed those, but I remember putting them back. I'll double check the connection to make sure it's solid.

 

[jfor441]

Did the grounds fix your issue?

 

[Untame-d]

I have the low rpm studdering problem. It's like a chatter right under my feet especially when turning right (might be exhaust hitting under the car, but likely not). Thought it was the shift link cover on the tranny but tightened it up. Something to do with the clutch, might have to adjust it after I had the fly wheel machined.

 

[Wyldhorse]

I have the low rpm studdering problem. It's like a chatter right under my feet especially when turning right (might be exhaust hitting under the car, but likely not). Thought it was the shift link cover on the tranny but tightened it up. Something to do with the clutch, might have to adjust it after I had the fly wheel machined.

I had this issue. Turned out the X-pipe was hitting the transmission crossmember

 

[Untame-d]

I'm pretty sure it's something along those lines with mine to.. because mine shifts perfectly fine and no clutch slip or anything.

 

[JDwhite98gt]

As far as grounds go, I have a ground that goes on the back driver's side fuel rail bolt. I couldnt see it in your pics, make sure it's there. Also, what are the pink injectors? Mine are yellowish/orange.

 

[Wyldhorse]

As far as grounds go, I have a ground that goes on the back driver's side fuel rail bolt. I couldnt see it in your pics, make sure it's there. Also, what are the pink injectors? Mine are yellowish/orange.

I have no idea. They came on the engine.

 

[vermilion]

pink is 22lbs.