97_281gt
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You still go to that really expensive guy on goldenrod?
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G36 Monkey's Resurrection Build. Number Tew. Update June 10, 2017
- Thread starter g36 monkey
- Start date
Tally_4.6
Well-Known Member
Eff that.
I'll stick with my 42 piece SLP setup.
I'll stick with my 42 piece SLP setup.
real98roush
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Nice build!!! Subbed to follow along.
Question, why the exhaust modification? Does the PHB interfere with the stock route?
What about the parking brake bracket, was that needed to correct an issue or is it required as part of the TA/PHB?
IG: [MENTION=13081]sn95[/MENTION]mystic
Question, why the exhaust modification? Does the PHB interfere with the stock route?
What about the parking brake bracket, was that needed to correct an issue or is it required as part of the TA/PHB?
IG: [MENTION=13081]sn95[/MENTION]mystic
ElrodKTPQ_89
Legend
Damn that exhaust turned out good!
OP
OP
I do, I have found you get what you pay for. Especially when it comes to fabrication.
Lol!
If I had stock GT pipes up there, the exhaust would have fit, however I already had aftermarket over-axles which would have never fit. And even the stock exhaust is questionable on whether or not it would fit, as you can see, it's all very tight.
The parking brake needed to be modified because I put 9" housings on the ends, so I needed 9" style brakes which were just different from factory, so some changes needed to be made.
Thanks! I think so too!!
97_281gt
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Idk them welds don't look super hot lol should go to ice cold auto air way cheaper then that guy and the do great work do everyone in the clubs exhaust. Plus that guy used to work for them back in the day before he wanted more money lol
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atlanticblue98
Well-Known Member
Mike took his focus to superior and charged him $100 for a 12" resonator delete. Ice cold auto air just fixed a leak it had from superiors weld...
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97_281gt
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Idk I called him one time and he wanted 250 for tail pipes with out tips I never called there again lol
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OP
OP
I've used him for 10 years and have never had any issues with his work. Those welds were particularly difficult to do under the car around all of the suspension.
Tally_4.6
Well-Known Member
This is true ^
95opal
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Everything is lookin good tew...those bilstiens dammm lol
Say good bye to paint money if you go down the AN fitting road lol. Side note ...thanks for the motivation maybe I can use it to get some stuff done on my matchbox lol
DKblue98GT
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That is some complicated exhaust. I am envious of your rear suspension.
OP
OP
Come help me with it! I am in the market for a house, so car may end up on the back burner for a bit, but there are some big plans ahead
Thanks! One thing is for sure, the exhaust is in there! Luckily I should not ever have a need to take it down rear of the collectors so it should not be an issue.
I definitely have a very stout base to work with.
Side note, the car handles a million times better than before, and I really haven't had the chance to push it yet. But when sliding, it's beyond predictable!
Anyhow, got the fog lights wired up. I feel like real people now. Correct bezels and fogs
Look, they're hugging
DKblue98GT
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You are definitely "Real people"
g36 monkeys wifey
New Member
When you start sleeping with him and offer to help pay for the paint job, you can then pick the color!
97_281gt
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ElrodKTPQ_89
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Daaaayyyyuuuuuuuummm
OP
OP
OP
OP
I got off of work around 0630 on June 9. I decided I should go ahead and get the car ready for Autocross on Sunday (hopefully). The day started out intending to do an oil change and installing a Fumoto oil drain valve.
Well, I was basically done with the oil change in no time, had that valve all installed then I thought to myself: “I’ve had a brand new tensioner on my shelf for years. I would really like to replace it.â€
Some of you may remember some may not; years ago I was trying to swap the tensioner, but was never able to find the right size Allen/Torx head for the bolt, because the factory bolt was all stripped out. I never could get anything to work, and shops told me they couldn’t do anything about it. Perfect.
So, I got to work, drilling out the bolt to use an ease-out sort of tool. But that bolt was so stuck in place; it refused to move, until one of my extractors broke inside. Great. In case you did not know, those extractors are typically made of very strong hardened metals, and I was not able to get in the area with anything else. So, that led to the next logical step. Cut the entire tensioner off around the bolt, then grab the bolt with vice-grips or similar and remove it.
Long story short, after much wailing and gnashing of teeth, great success!
Then I decided: “Well, I already have the belt off, maybe I should replace it. But, I think it’s leaking from the front main seal, better go ahead and do that.â€
So I ended up pulling the harmonic balancer (barely, found out the pulling holes were stripped, I re-tapped those later), pulling the seal and replacing it.
I have done that seal a few times, but now that I have a Ford service manual, I see I was leaving out a critical step. I never put silicone in the key-way slot on the pulley. This time, I loaded it up and it seems to have worked great.
I let it run in the driveway for about 40 mins, and I did not see any leaking from the Fumoto valve, or from the front main seal, so I am hoping that fixed that major leak I’ve been dealing with for years!
While I was idling to check for leaks, I decided to investigate why the A/C went out. The system just ended up being so low the compressor would not cycle well enough to suck up refrigerant. My neighbor brought over a full set of gauges and we were able to get some juice into the system. I am proud to say this thing is blowing cold enough to make me chilly in the summer in Florida! Has not been able to do that for quite some time!
But alright, I know this is a bunch of words, and Forum people don’t read. So, pics as promised:
Fumoto valve installed. For those who don’t know, I thought I may have been leaking from my drain bolt. Factory recommends that the bolt be changed on every oil change, but we all know that does not happen. I also don’t like having to undo the bolt all the time from the aluminum pan. This should preserve the threads for years to come and make oil changes that much easier.
Using the Sawzall to cut the tensioner to pieces, hell yeah!
In case you were wondering, your tensioner looks like this inside. We spent a great deal of time sawing, chiseling, prying and hammering to get to this point.
This is the culprit. Hard to tell in the pic but it was slightly bent. You can clearly see how messed up the head of the bolt was.
I was able to find an exact replacement at Ace with a nice new 10mm Allen key head. Made the replacement of the tensioner quite easy! It's an M12x1.75 in case anyone ever needs one!
Balancer out of the way.
After running for about 40 mins it still looked like this. Woo!
Anyhow, it’s been a while since I did a walk-around video. So here one is. You can all hear the ol’ V6 so I can get made fun of.
https://youtu.be/0peNP1pta-M
On the same note. I have been getting a very bad vibration between about 30-45. Very symptomatic of being a wheel out of balance. Took the car to Wally World (it was late!) and they tried to check the balance, but told me the tires were worn so they couldn't......
So, I will be trying to get that sorted out later today. Then a little more prepping for hopefully Autocross on Sunday. Cleaning the inside of the windshield really well, and making sure all of the suspension is locked down. I might try to get my brake proportioning valve all set too.
Well, I was basically done with the oil change in no time, had that valve all installed then I thought to myself: “I’ve had a brand new tensioner on my shelf for years. I would really like to replace it.â€
Some of you may remember some may not; years ago I was trying to swap the tensioner, but was never able to find the right size Allen/Torx head for the bolt, because the factory bolt was all stripped out. I never could get anything to work, and shops told me they couldn’t do anything about it. Perfect.
So, I got to work, drilling out the bolt to use an ease-out sort of tool. But that bolt was so stuck in place; it refused to move, until one of my extractors broke inside. Great. In case you did not know, those extractors are typically made of very strong hardened metals, and I was not able to get in the area with anything else. So, that led to the next logical step. Cut the entire tensioner off around the bolt, then grab the bolt with vice-grips or similar and remove it.
Long story short, after much wailing and gnashing of teeth, great success!
Then I decided: “Well, I already have the belt off, maybe I should replace it. But, I think it’s leaking from the front main seal, better go ahead and do that.â€
So I ended up pulling the harmonic balancer (barely, found out the pulling holes were stripped, I re-tapped those later), pulling the seal and replacing it.
I have done that seal a few times, but now that I have a Ford service manual, I see I was leaving out a critical step. I never put silicone in the key-way slot on the pulley. This time, I loaded it up and it seems to have worked great.
I let it run in the driveway for about 40 mins, and I did not see any leaking from the Fumoto valve, or from the front main seal, so I am hoping that fixed that major leak I’ve been dealing with for years!
While I was idling to check for leaks, I decided to investigate why the A/C went out. The system just ended up being so low the compressor would not cycle well enough to suck up refrigerant. My neighbor brought over a full set of gauges and we were able to get some juice into the system. I am proud to say this thing is blowing cold enough to make me chilly in the summer in Florida! Has not been able to do that for quite some time!
But alright, I know this is a bunch of words, and Forum people don’t read. So, pics as promised:
Fumoto valve installed. For those who don’t know, I thought I may have been leaking from my drain bolt. Factory recommends that the bolt be changed on every oil change, but we all know that does not happen. I also don’t like having to undo the bolt all the time from the aluminum pan. This should preserve the threads for years to come and make oil changes that much easier.
Using the Sawzall to cut the tensioner to pieces, hell yeah!
In case you were wondering, your tensioner looks like this inside. We spent a great deal of time sawing, chiseling, prying and hammering to get to this point.
This is the culprit. Hard to tell in the pic but it was slightly bent. You can clearly see how messed up the head of the bolt was.
I was able to find an exact replacement at Ace with a nice new 10mm Allen key head. Made the replacement of the tensioner quite easy! It's an M12x1.75 in case anyone ever needs one!
Balancer out of the way.
After running for about 40 mins it still looked like this. Woo!
Anyhow, it’s been a while since I did a walk-around video. So here one is. You can all hear the ol’ V6 so I can get made fun of.
https://youtu.be/0peNP1pta-M
On the same note. I have been getting a very bad vibration between about 30-45. Very symptomatic of being a wheel out of balance. Took the car to Wally World (it was late!) and they tried to check the balance, but told me the tires were worn so they couldn't......
So, I will be trying to get that sorted out later today. Then a little more prepping for hopefully Autocross on Sunday. Cleaning the inside of the windshield really well, and making sure all of the suspension is locked down. I might try to get my brake proportioning valve all set too.
97_281gt
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Good job sir
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