Giddy-up

bmcgc · Mar 1, 2016

My desire is to keep our 94 as oem as possible, its about to turn 54,000 miles and the original convertible top and paint are still a 9 out of 10.. Except for the wheels, radio, and battery cable repair, its pretty much stock except for the normal maintenance items.

That said, it just doesn't have the giddy-up of my previous V8 mustangs, not as much as my Fox Mustangs for sure.

Im thinking about putting in 3.55s in place of the 3.08s and an ORP.

Is there any tuning available for these cars?

lutter94 · Mar 1, 2016

3.55's weren't a factory option. Heck neither is the 3.08's. Whats an ORP?

There are no quick tunes available. These aren't like newer cars that are derated and gain 100 hp with the push of a button.

Want more power, you can swap the Heads/Cam/Intake, then tune it. Then free up the exhaust, cold air intake too.

mcglsr2 · Mar 1, 2016

If your goal is to keep it as stock as possible, then you are pretty much stuck.

I assume ORP is Off Road Pipe - if you want to run one to eliminate the cats you can, however your smog pump is still attached and working (I assume, since you say it's pretty much OEM). So if you don't have any cats expect to get a engine lamp lit periodically when the smog stuff tries to do its thing.

And like said, no tunes will really help you. You have to start changing out parts first, then use the tune to take advantage of the new stuff.

bmcgc · Mar 1, 2016

My door tag decodes as having 3.08s

Ive had the new car itch for a week or so, maybe its time to think about moving up.

This is a nice car, but its not fun to drive, my 89 GT would leave this car in the smoke hands down.

mcglsr2 · Mar 1, 2016

The 94-95 GT's are pretty pokey in stock form, especially compared to today's cars. Luckily they respond well to mods. If you don't plan on modding, then you are correct, they are not much fun.

And compared to your 89, they are not that much slower. Maybe just a tad. Your butt dyno might tell you differently, but they are pretty close. And if you put both on a road race course, stock for stock, you'd actually get slightly better times in the SN95

If you are talking just straight line, then the Fox is probably a tad faster.

So why not mod? What keep it OEM? Rear diff gears alone will wake up the 94 quite a bit.

bmcgc · Mar 1, 2016

Ive got to many unfinished projects to start another.

If I have to do heads, intake, cam, exhaust, I may as well drop the coin for a new 5.0 and just enjoy it.

My 94 5.0 will never make 435hp, at least not as long as I own it.

The misses test drove a V6 manual tonight. She liked the way it drives and shifts, loves the backup camera.

Its whisper quiet, just like a Taurus.

It was the only manual on the lot out of 14 new Mustangs.

bmcgc · Mar 2, 2016

Did some more research.

A new Mustang will more than double our insurance premium from $500 to $1100 every six months, that's with dropping the 94 GT. I cant figure that out. No tickets, no accidents. We have $1000 deductibles on the 12 Caliber, 94 GT, and 64 F100. By comparison, if we buy a 11-12-13, the increase is only about $150. Previously owned sounds better to us, or keep what we have another year or two. I sure like those glassbacks and there is one for sale locally.

Firefighter181 · Mar 3, 2016

Drop a Coyote motor in and get collector plates. It will cost almost nothing to insure and drive then :thumbsup:

And it will make 400+ horse!

mcglsr2 · Mar 4, 2016

bmcgc said:
Ive got to many unfinished projects to start another.

If I have to do heads, intake, cam, exhaust, I may as well drop the coin for a new 5.0 and just enjoy it.

My 94 5.0 will never make 435hp, at least not as long as I own it.

The misses test drove a V6 manual tonight. She liked the way it drives and shifts, loves the backup camera.

Its whisper quiet, just like a Taurus.

It was the only manual on the lot out of 14 new Mustangs.

bmcgc said:
Did some more research.

A new Mustang will more than double our insurance premium from $500 to $1100 every six months, that's with dropping the 94 GT. I cant figure that out. No tickets, no accidents. We have $1000 deductibles on the 12 Caliber, 94 GT, and 64 F100. By comparison, if we buy a 11-12-13, the increase is only about $150. Previously owned sounds better to us, or keep what we have another year or two. I sure like those glassbacks and there is one for sale locally.

The premium increases so much because the new Mustang will (should) have collision on it whereas I'm willing to bet your old 94 does not. That right there accounts for the majority of the increase. This is pretty common for new cars, especially performance-oriented ones like a Mustang.

If you don't want to mod, and you aren't happy with the performance you currently have from your 94, then you just won't be happy with it. Period. You are better off selling it (or trading it in) and buying a new(er) Mustang. You will get better stock performance, won't need to mod anything, and get the bonus of having a newer car (meaning hopefully things don't start breaking).

the5.ohh · Mar 4, 2016

94-95s are turds in stock form. A set of gears would help a bit.. But unless you rip into the motor, you won't be happy with it. My 95 GT has 60k on it, I just built my motor. Lot of fun to drive, but a newer coyote would be ideal.

hondarocks61 · Mar 4, 2016

These cars are great to build. No point keeping it stock if you want to have fun with it.

Sent from my LGL22C using Tapatalk

RichV · Mar 5, 2016

My 95 is scary stock for how old it is. I'm pondering on upgrading it a bit as well, my problem is time as well. Have too much other stuff that needs attention ATM.

Realistically, I don't have anything to prove on my way to work or when driving around to really care. It gets a lot of attention for how clean and stock it looks. I'm just taking care of some maintenance items, replacing some worn out stuff, and upgrading the radio so it integrates with smartphone. Do a chin spoiler, lower it a little, and be done for a bit.

One idea I've pondered with while keeping the stock HCI is to add an oldschool Ford Racing blower. Something period correct and bump the HP up by 100+, and just keep driving it. If one falls in my lap I may just do it. But for now I have no issues keeping it stock. I have my 94 that I beat within an inch of it's life a couple times a month in the summers.

TrickVert · Mar 8, 2016

You don't see many as clean as ours any more, and especially ones that haven't been modded. You have to decide how important "stock" is to you, I suppose.

From the outside, mine looks relatively stock with just lowering springs and upgraded wheels (and 2.5" exhaust pipes if you want to be picky). There are interior modifications like the gauge cluster face, pedals, halo headrests... all small things, but they're there when you start looking more closely. Start the car and/or open the hood, though, and the secret's out.

Although I certainly appreciate different hoods, spoilers, clear headlights and other appearance mods when done "right," I like a "mostly-stock" appearance and subtle changes for MY car.

My suggestions if you want to stray from stock? I'd do the things that make driving the car more fun. For suspension, mild springs/shocks/struts will eliminate the 4x4 stance improving the look and providing better handling. Also, subframe connectors go a long way toward stiffing up these topless noodles. Upgraded exhaust will give you a *little* performance, but better sound is the real benefit. I would suggest a high-flow catted H-pipe (or X if you like the sound) and upgraded mufflers - Dynomax VT's will give you improved sound with no drone, and you want cats to keep the stink at bay, especially with a convertible (heck throw on the VT's first, and you might not even want to change the rest). Gears are the best bang-for-the-buck mod and make the car a bit faster, but more importantly, more fun to drive. (I liked the change to my Tri-Ax shifter, as well.) With a 5-speed, 3.73's would be a good choice, and the auto guys say 3.90 or 4.10. These assume normally-aspirated. If you do/might decide to throw on a Vortech (or an old FMS blower), then 3:55's seem to be the majority's choice for a stick car. Not sure for an auto.

Onnnnnn the other hand, if car shows are your thing, stock gets lots of kudos.

As for replacing it with a new(er) car, that's certainly an option, but I like the "unique" factor of not passing myself on the road all the time.

Andy

Mustanger · Mar 9, 2016

I also like the more "basic" feel of our older cars! A bit rougher & less refined & isolated driving experience. LOL...Gives me a more elemental feeling driving around. ( AND keeps me from finding a way to buy a new one!)

bmcgc · Mar 11, 2016

When I bought this car last year it was bone stock, down to the original spark plugs, shocks, struts and exhaust.

The only "repair" I have found is the battery cable ends were replaced with clamps and I had to have the flywheel shimmed.

I installed Ford C springs, shocks and struts, American Racing wheels, oem size tires, 1.5in rear wheel spacers, spark plugs, oil change, air filter, alignment, and replaced the AM/FM/Cass/CD because both units quit working, 4 new speakers, and the door panel switch plates.

That's pretty stock for a 22 year old car.

It is in amazing condition, a few minor scuffs in the paint, you have to look really hard to find them, I see no evidence that any paint or body work has ever been done.

I followed the misses yesterday, and was looking at the car thinking how nice it looked on the road. A new Mustang would be nice, but I don't think Im ready to let this one go yet.

Part of my desire to keep this car stock is the red leather. I doubt that I will ever see another SN95 with factory red leather, especially in a white convertible.

BTW: On the insurance it is apples to apples. I keep the current cars covered to the max, but with a 1k deductible.

lutter94 · Mar 11, 2016

flywheel shims on a car where you can adjust the clutch cable? Even the stock setup, you can pull the pedal up to adjust it.

Mustanger · Mar 11, 2016

I never had any factory clutch adjustment on my 94 either....pulling up on the clutch pedal did nothing whatsoever & I saw no mechanism that would do that either when I put the Steeda quadrant in.

lutter94 · Mar 11, 2016

Mustanger said:
I never had any factory clutch adjustment on my 94 either....pulling up on the clutch pedal did nothing whatsoever & I saw no mechanism that would do that either when I put the Steeda quadrant in.

I thought thats what the plastic teeth were for? When I swapped to 5 speed, i went straight to double hook/firewall, so I never attempted it. I may have been wrong about pulling up on the pedal, but it seems to be adjustable.....idk

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/4-6l-tech/125544-adjust-your-stock-clutch.html

TrickVert · Mar 11, 2016

Yep, that's the adjustment mechanism. I had to replace the one in my '87 years ago, as some of the teeth stripped off. If memory serves, pushing the clutch to the floor and letting it "snap" back was the "adjustment method."

Andy