Hard to shift/gear grind

Adfalenski

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It definitely sounds like the forward shifter stop needs to be adjusted to give a little more throw. The instructions with mine directed to adjust to just beyond being fully in gear into where it is springy. This ensures that the transmission is fully in gear.
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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It definitely sounds like the forward shifter stop needs to be adjusted to give a little more throw. The instructions with mine directed to adjust to just beyond being fully in gear into where it is springy. This ensures that the transmission is fully in gear.
I'll take a look at the stops tomorrow and see what I find. Might just ditch the SR sport shifter for an MGW...
 

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I always like to set them when the engine is running, you can feel the engagement threw the shifter, and may even want to take the shift ball off to help aid in the feel of it. I would loosen the set screw all the way up so you can feel where the shifter won't go any further forward, and then back it off some so your not straining anything. Also, don't let it be not engaged enough, because that can cause your shifter to vibrat to where you think something is wrong. One main reason why the t45/t5 went bad was because people were power shifting without an aftermarket shifter.
 

Adfalenski

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Don’t ditch the shifter. Adjusting the shifter is fairly simple and the positive stops help keep from overstressing the shift forks in the transmission. The stock shifter makes you wonder if you pushed too hard or not enough. With properly adjusted shift stops, you KNOW when you are in gear. Here is a YouTube video on adjusting shift stops -
.
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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Well I re-adjusted the shift stops. They didn't appear to be making contact with the shifter; however, it does seem to shift a lot smoother now after adjusting it. It still has some issues with not wanting to shift. 1st and 3rd get locked out on occasion and 2nd doesn't want to fully engage so I really have to pull on it to go into gear... But these issues aren't nearly as consistent as they were previously. I did notice the shifter dust boot is torn pretty bad in the middle.. I'm wondering if that could cause some issues with getting in the way of the shifter since its kinda just hanging there... I'll probably make a switch to a Steeda or MGW sometime in the near future.
 
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I'm sorry if youve said this already, but did it do this when you purchased the car? Just some FYI, these specific transmissions have weaker forks in the trans, and synchro's also. Will it go in gear when the car is turned off? Is your cable properly installed on the quadrant? Get back to us when you can.
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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I'm sorry if youve said this already, but did it do this when you purchased the car? Just some FYI, these specific transmissions have weaker forks in the trans, and synchro's also. Will it go in gear when the car is turned off? Is your cable properly installed on the quadrant? Get back to us when you can.
I want to say it probably did but never having driven a mustang of this year before, I didn't think much of it (heard they take some muscle). It may have gotten worse over 3 months. It shifts like a dream when the car is shut off. And the cables correctly installed as far as I know.
 
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I want to say it probably did but never having driven a mustang of this year before, I didn't think much of it (heard they take some muscle). It may have gotten worse over 3 months. It shifts like a dream when the car is shut off. And the cables correctly installed as far as I know.
If that trans is all factory, and I mean it's not been rebuilt, the prior owner could have been running a different type of fluid in it, and if so, that could make it hard to get in gear. I would drain it, and check for fine metallic particles, and run fresh fluid through it getting out as much of it as possible. Then put new fluid back in it. Ford calls for strictly "Mercon" for the t45. There was a TSB by ford for the t45 to use Mercon 5 where regu5 Mercon was used. Me personally use regular Mercon, and she shifts flawlessly. I actually use the "Castrol Dextron/Mercon" its a black quart bottle. Try to change it and see how it does. Some other fluids can make a tranny be notchy as can be. Good luck!
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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If that trans is all factory, and I mean it's not been rebuilt, the prior owner could have been running a different type of fluid in it, and if so, that could make it hard to get in gear. I would drain it, and check for fine metallic particles, and run fresh fluid through it getting out as much of it as possible. Then put new fluid back in it. Ford calls for strictly "Mercon" for the t45. There was a TSB by ford for the t45 to use Mercon 5 where regu5 Mercon was used. Me personally use regular Mercon, and she shifts flawlessly. I actually use the "Castrol Dextron/Mercon" its a black quart bottle. Try to change it and see how it does. Some other fluids can make a tranny be notchy as can be. Good luck!
I'll give it a shot!
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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So after replacing the transmission fluid, I decided to replace the SR shifter with an MGW after I realized that the screws to take the shifter apart were stripped... Just installed it and now I'm wondering... The SR shifter had the little black cup that goes into the shifter hole attached to it... Isn't that cup only for 3650's??? There's a white plastic ring in the hole.. Or is that black cup suppose to remain in the shifter hole? I installed the MGW into the hole that is pictured below without the black plastic cup. It seems to shift fine with the car off.
 
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Adfalenski

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The instructions usually tell you if you need to reuse the cup.

Before actually installing the new shifter, drain the transmission fluid and then refill from the shifter area. Once the new fluid has been added, install the new shifter.
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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The instructions usually tell you if you need to reuse the cup.

Before actually installing the new shifter, drain the transmission fluid and then refill from the shifter area. Once the new fluid has been added, install the new shifter.

Well there's no instructions that are included, just went off a few installation videos off youtube. I already filled it with new transmission fluid through the shifter base.
 

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If it doeant have a cup with it, use the other one. Its supposed to be used.
 

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So after replacing the transmission fluid, I decided to replace the SR shifter with an MGW after I realized that the screws to take the shifter apart were stripped... Just installed it and now I'm wondering... The SR shifter had the little black cup that goes into the shifter hole attached to it... Isn't that cup only for 3650's??? There's a white plastic ring in the hole.. Or is that black cup suppose to remain in the shifter hole? I installed the MGW into the hole that is pictured below without the black plastic cup. It seems to shift fine with the car off.
You have a cup in there, beige looking one.
 
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amf201091

amf201091

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Well, after replacing the transmission fluid and getting rid of the SR short throw shifter and replacing it with an MGW. I'm convinced that most of the problems I had been experiencing are now solved! It's definitely more of a joy to drive now. The overall difference of how the MGW feels compared to the SR is night and day. I still get locked out of 1st gear at red lights but double clutching gets it in... Possibly a bad synchro?
 

evilcw311

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Well, after replacing the transmission fluid and getting rid of the SR short throw shifter and replacing it with an MGW. I'm convinced that most of the problems I had been experiencing are now solved! It's definitely more of a joy to drive now. The overall difference of how the MGW feels compared to the SR is night and day. I still get locked out of 1st gear at red lights but double clutching gets it in... Possibly a bad synchro?

Synchro or pressure plate


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