Hawk HPS 5.0 Pads in Cobra Calipers - Issue being too big?

TheOdessa

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Has anyone had a hard time getting the caliper to fit over Hawk HPS 5.0 or HPS pads in general on the Cobra calipers? On both the driver and passenger side it's been an absolute nightmare getting the pin in because the anti rattle clips are either too thick or the pads themselves are just a hair off.

Both calipers I got (Power Stop Cobra ramans from RockAuto) have leaks around the pistons when I went to bleed them. I'm assuming it's from the fighting, twisting and applying crazy amounts of pressure to provide just enough clearance to get the pin in.

I've read Hawk pads can be too thick but not too big?

Rockauto is sending me new calipers under warranty but what in the world is going on with these pads?

I was thinking of getting an aftermarket rattle clip kit to see if the clips the pads came from Hawk are just too beefy but does anyone have any ideas?

I've bought Power Stop calipers in the past in the GT variant and never had this issue.
 

ttocs

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I thought I read somewhere that there is a difference in the thickness of the cobra/gt pads. is it possible you have the gt pads in the cobra caliper?
 
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Has anyone had a hard time getting the caliper to fit over Hawk HPS 5.0 or HPS pads in general on the Cobra calipers? On both the driver and passenger side it's been an absolute nightmare getting the pin in because the anti rattle clips are either too thick or the pads themselves are just a hair off.

Both calipers I got (Power Stop Cobra ramans from RockAuto) have leaks around the pistons when I went to bleed them. I'm assuming it's from the fighting, twisting and applying crazy amounts of pressure to provide just enough clearance to get the pin in.

I've read Hawk pads can be too thick but not too big?

Rockauto is sending me new calipers under warranty but what in the world is going on with these pads?

I was thinking of getting an aftermarket rattle clip kit to see if the clips the pads came from Hawk are just too beefy but does anyone have any ideas?

I've bought Power Stop calipers in the past in the GT variant and never had this issue.

I have used Hawk HPS and HP-Plus pads on my autocross cars for years. I've noticed that some pads come with metal tabs on BOTH sides of the backing plates, and some pads don't. When the pads have come with two tabs, the pins have been extremely hard, or even impossible to get into position. Without the TOP tab (NOT the side where the pin goes), the pin slides in with no issue. you can easily bend the tab to break it off. Juts be sure to knock out the remaining piece from under the rivet.

I think, based on the fact that I've gotten pads with and without these tabs, that they aren't meant to be on both sides of the backing plate.
 

TheOdessa

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I have used Hawk HPS and HP-Plus pads on my autocross cars for years. I've noticed that some pads come with metal tabs on BOTH sides of the backing plates, and some pads don't. When the pads have come with two tabs, the pins have been extremely hard, or even impossible to get into position. Without the TOP tab (NOT the side where the pin goes), the pin slides in with no issue. you can easily bend the tab to break it off. Juts be sure to knock out the remaining piece from under the rivet.

I think, based on the fact that I've gotten pads with and without these tabs, that they aren't meant to be on both sides of the backing plate.
You are a freaking hero!!! I am going to try this because like you said it's damn near impossible without a vice and some prying and to me that can't be normal at all. I am going to try this and see what happens.

When looking at LMR videos, some pads have these tabs on both sides. When looking at an aftermarket Cobra brake hardware kit and the tabs that come on the Hawk pads, the hawk pad tabs are much more beefier. I'm going to try your technique and see if I have any luck without getting rattling.

Do you have any pics by chance of what you did to make them fit good?
 

TheOdessa

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I thought I read somewhere that there is a difference in the thickness of the cobra/gt pads. is it possible you have the gt pads in the cobra caliper?
I wish this were the case but the GT pads are a completely different design then the cobra pads.
 
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You are a freaking hero!!! I am going to try this because like you said it's damn near impossible without a vice and some prying and to me that can't be normal at all. I am going to try this and see what happens.

When looking at LMR videos, some pads have these tabs on both sides. When looking at an aftermarket Cobra brake hardware kit and the tabs that come on the Hawk pads, the hawk pad tabs are much more beefier. I'm going to try your technique and see if I have any luck without getting rattling.

Do you have any pics by chance of what you did to make them fit good?

Here's a picture. I'm assuming I read your post correctly and that you are having an issue with the FRONT Cobra calipers...

Rotor Brake Dust.JPG
As you can see, there is no metal tab on the backing plate in the top position. Once that tab is out, I can easily push the caliper down into place and secure the pin. You might have to push on the tabs on the pin side a little to get them past the lip on the bracket, but it should not take much force at all.
 

01yellercobra

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I thought I read somewhere that there is a difference in the thickness of the cobra/gt pads. is it possible you have the gt pads in the cobra caliper?
I wish this were the case but the GT pads are a completely different design then the cobra pads.
That's the case with the rear calipers. Probably would have helped to say front or rear calipers in the original post. But it seems to be fixed now.
 

TheOdessa

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That's the case with the rear calipers. Probably would have helped to say front or rear calipers in the original post. But it seems to be fixed now.

My apologies on not specifying but yes you are 100% correct on the rears. I did more research and you are spot on.

I decided to keep the rears stock GT calipers. Kept the R1Concepts drilled and slotted rotor from when I modified them in the past. I added J&M stainless braided lines and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Wanted to do this on a budget but improve overall braking.

Hopefully the front isn't overpowered when braking now since the rear is stock caliper and the front is Cobra.

The stock set up just wasn't good enough even after everything was new. Might have been the pads I was using (Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramics) but oh well.
 

TheOdessa

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To anyone out there, big kudos to Warhorse Racing on this! Man, I CANNOT thank you ENOUGH. The caliper went on and with just a little bit of a push the pin went right on. Good LORD I have never experienced this before.

The pad doesn't have a squealer, or low pad indicator now, but that doesn't matter to me because I check the pads regularly anyways. I still cannot believe that tab caused so much stress and heartache, why this isn't discussed more, but most of all I truly want to thank you sincerely for your help. Thank you!!!
 
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To anyone out there, big kudos to Warhorse Racing on this! Man, I CANNOT thank you ENOUGH. The caliper went on and with just a little bit of a push the pin went right on. Good LORD I have never experienced this before.

The pad doesn't have a squealer, or low pad indicator now, but that doesn't matter to me because I check the pads regularly anyways. I still cannot believe that tab caused so much stress and heartache, why this isn't discussed more, but most of all I truly want to thank you sincerely for your help. Thank you!!!

I'm really glad I could help. I remember having the same problem you had and it was so frustrating. Luckily, my issue was only on one side (because there were no top tabs on the other pads). That helped me figure out what was wrong.

I'm guessing that because backing plates are often recycled and used on several different cars, this issue is pretty common.
 

TrickVert

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Just a note on the rears: When I added Cobra brakes to my '95 GT, much research indicated that the rear calipers are the same GT vs. Cobra. They simply mount to new, Cobra-specific brackets. New for new, the Cobra pads are slightly thinner than GT pads to allow for the thicker rotor. For this reason, slightly worn GT pads can be used with the Cobra rotors. All of this was born out as true for me.
 

TheOdessa

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I'm really glad I could help. I remember having the same problem you had and it was so frustrating. Luckily, my issue was only on one side (because there were no top tabs on the other pads). That helped me figure out what was wrong.

I'm guessing that because backing plates are often recycled and used on several different cars, this issue is pretty common.
Again I cannot thank you enough. What took HOURS to put together took mere minutes after doing what you told me to do.
 

joe65

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good info on this. i'm planning the upgrade on mine soon. so, good to know.
 
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Again I cannot thank you enough. What took HOURS to put together took mere minutes after doing what you told me to do.

I’m always happy to help. You’ve got a really nice setup on your car. I’m not sure if you plan on autocrossing it, but here’s a link to my YouTube channel.

You’ll find AUTOCROSS DRIVING TIPS, unbiased race-tested PARTS REVIEWS for SRA and IRS cars, BUDGET AUTOCROSS SETUP TIPS, and RESULTS VIDEOS for my 2000 GT and my 2004 IRS-swapped V6… (and a series on my 1992 GT).

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOEWzAT17XoeGzSWysT1NXw/videos

If you have any more questions, please ask.
 

TheOdessa

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I’m always happy to help. You’ve got a really nice setup on your car. I’m not sure if you plan on autocrossing it, but here’s a link to my YouTube channel.

You’ll find AUTOCROSS DRIVING TIPS, unbiased race-tested PARTS REVIEWS for SRA and IRS cars, BUDGET AUTOCROSS SETUP TIPS, and RESULTS VIDEOS for my 2000 GT and my 2004 IRS-swapped V6… (and a series on my 1992 GT).

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOEWzAT17XoeGzSWysT1NXw/videos

If you have any more questions, please ask.
Honestly I've always played with the idea of autocrossing it but never actually did it. I've had the car for 10 years and after 3 of those years it was retired to a garage queen. I feel like I've always spent so much time and money into it just to drive it once a month and go to the occasional car show or club meet. I always wanted to do more with the car then just that.

My biggest hesitation was crashing it. I try to keep it in such good shape I'd die if it even got a scratch. I'll take a look at your videos and let you know.

I'm currently working on a blower build. I've been set on a Kenne Bell set up for full time power. In fact a lot of mods I've done is to support the extra stress it'll put on the car. Is that a good blower for auto crossing? I go to the drag strip at times but never run because, well, 2V. I'd be a lot better for auto cross with the suspension and other mods I've done.
 
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Honestly I've always played with the idea of autocrossing it but never actually did it. I've had the car for 10 years and after 3 of those years it was retired to a garage queen. I feel like I've always spent so much time and money into it just to drive it once a month and go to the occasional car show or club meet. I always wanted to do more with the car then just that.

My biggest hesitation was crashing it. I try to keep it in such good shape I'd die if it even got a scratch. I'll take a look at your videos and let you know.

I'm currently working on a blower build. I've been set on a Kenne Bell set up for full time power. In fact a lot of mods I've done is to support the extra stress it'll put on the car. Is that a good blower for auto crossing? I go to the drag strip at times but never run because, well, 2V. I'd be a lot better for auto cross with the suspension and other mods I've done.

Autocross is the safest, most-accessible motorsport there is. There is only 1 car on course at a time, so crashing is unlikely. Course design rules require a certain amount of distance from anything that can damage the car.

The key is to drive within your limits. If the car spins or slides, don't try to save it. Just stop the car.

Damage from hitting cones is very rare, but it can happen. The most common thing that happens is a smudge from hitting the cones that rubs of easily. Some people use painter's tape to protect their cars from cone hits and stone chips. They cover the front bumper and behind the wheels. If you're concerned about small scratches, I would recommend using tape.

Autocross is not about horsepower. It's about handling and driving. The fastest car I own is a 220 hp 2004 V6. It frequently beats V8 cars with twice as much horsepower. And it won a local CAM Class championship in 2019. Your car will be fine for autocross without the blower.

I created my channel to show people how good these cars can be with very few mods. Thanks for checking it out.
 

Akurma

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Not to change the thread topic, but auto X is a lot of fun, i did it in my 2v and actually liked it a lot more than using my Mazdapseed3 for auto X. Everyone says "oh its a muscle car, you can't corner" Well sure, but with some simple mods you would be surprised!
 

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