HCI swap- parts list complete- labor¿

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by the5.ohh, Nov 26, 2015.

  1. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Okay so as of now its a stock 302, C&L ram air intake, 76mm maf, 70mm throttlebody, longtubes, smog pump delete. I have the following parts.
    Trickflow Twisted Wedge Aluminum 170CC Heads (ARP Head Bolts)
    Trickflow Streetburner Upper & Lower Intake (ARP upper and lower hardware)
    Trickflow Stage One Camshaft
    PP Throttlebody Adapter
    Comp Cams 1.6 Roller Rockers
    Comp Cams Hardened Pushrods
    Comp Cams Double Roller Timing Chain (ARP hardware for timing cover)
    Head Dowel Pins
    Timing Cover Dowel Pins
    Ford Racing High Performance Lifters
    Ford Racing 24# Injectors
    Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump (I installed it a month ago)
    Foxbody Aluminum Valve Covers (ARP studs for hardware)
    ARP Stainless Header Bolts
    Fel-Pro Engine Gasket Set (doing all minus bottom end unless motor is pulled)
    Ford Racing Water Pump (ARP bolts & studs)
    Autolite 3924 Spark Plugs gapped to .43 as per Trickflow
    Livewire Spark Plug Wires
    EGR will be fully deleted.

    My T5 should hold I hope. I have a ram hdx clutch, mgw short throw, ford racing aluminum driveshaft, bunch of suspension goodies, cobra brakes.. Having my MM full length sfc's welded on next week.

    Car has 60,3xx original miles. I do plan on a dyno tune. I don't have the room to do this work myself. Nor would I feel completely confident in doing the work myself as I've never tackled an engine as in depth before. What would I be looking at for labor? Remember I'm in NY so everything is more expensive here.
     
  2. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    not sure if that is a list of parts you have or need but I have some arp head bolts I can sell if you or someone else needs them. Ask around and you can probably find someone that you know that has done it and can do it for you for a discount or a shop is gonna jack you pretty good. If your going to do it at a shop I would just have the shop with the dyno do it. They can probably work a deal in and then if there is something on the dyno that isn't exactly right they have a better idea of what has been done to it.
     
  3. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    I have all those parts. The guy who did my gears last year does this type of work. When he does my sfc's, I'll ask him what he'd charge for that. He does all types of builds. Just fishing for a price range
     
  4. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    The only place that does dyno tuning here is a regular place that does builds. But they have a horrible rep for ripping people off and doing shoddy work. They wanted $1200 to put a set of 3.55s in my car... $1200! Spent $260 on parts and paid the norm $300 in labor with this guy and they came out perfect. I'd never use that shop for any work.
     
  5. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I had a buddy come over a couple weekends ago. We tore down his top end Saturday morning, swapped the whole top end. Then we had it running Sunday evening and we had to run around like crazy to get the required seals and whatnot. Even had to return some things because they were wrong. None the less, it was done in one weekend. It was a mod motor too so things were a little tighter in there. I think you could do it and save yourself a bundle of cash.
     
  6. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    I "had" a buddy who was going to help me. But he ended up stiffing me for my money on some parts, so I don't have anyone to help me. Like at all.
     
  7. duh09

    duh09 Legend

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    Doing a top end is not hard and it looks like you've got all the parts, I'd save the cash and do it yourself if you can find somewhere to do it. You'll spend more time and effort getting the accessories out the way than you will pulling the heads. I pulled the heads of my notch back in the day to replace the head gaskets and all-in-all it really doesn't take that awful long to do. The only snag I ran into was getting the motor to fire back up because I put the dizzy back in 180* out. I had a lot of fun doing it, and would have enjoyed it a lot more if I hadn't spent 2 days chasing my tail on the dizzy issue lol.
     
  8. ranger56528

    ranger56528 Active Member

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    If you have any mechanical skills just get a Haynes or chilliton manual and do it yourself and that way you get to know and understand your motor,like some have said its not that hard,take pics before you start of the electrical,vacuum lines and how they are hooked up,the most time consuming task is putting in the cam everything else is basic if you have a place to do it.
    it looks daunting at 1st when you open the hood but after you start it's not bad.
    Post some pics as you go,lots of good folks here to help you along if you have questions.
     
  9. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Yeah I know it's not that in depth. But I literally have no where to work on the car besides the street. And I can't leave it like that in the street. I'd love to do it myself with some help from a buddy but I'm solo on that unfortunately lol.
     
  10. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Yeah I have mechanical skills and I can usually figure out how to do things. I do general contracting with my dad too so I'm pretty handy. I have no space to do the work alone. If it was just heads then I'd do it. But cam too means either removing the bumper or pulling the motor. I hear what you're saying though
     
  11. Addermk2

    Addermk2 Well-Known Member

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    plan on somewhere between 10-15 hours of labor at a shop.

    at a labor rate of somewhere between $85-$120 per hour.

    If you were closer, I'd suggest you just drop it off to me. Get it done right, for ALOT less money.
     
  12. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    That's what I figured. Oh I would drop it off in a heartbeat lol.
     
  13. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    I always use Castrol GTX 10W-30. For the build I'm going to swap over to 5W-30, same oil. What am I hearing about a break in period? 3 oil changes after the build?
     
  14. ranger56528

    ranger56528 Active Member

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    Back in the Late 70's to early 80's there was a parts store that rented shop stalls out for 75 bucks for 24 hours but you had to be done and out with cleaned shop or else they charged 25 bucks a hour until you were out unless you signed another 24 hour lease.
    it sure was nice,jacks lifts some tools and they rented specialty tools if so needed.
    Good luck on your build and remember,no pics it never happened hahaha....Later.