Head gaskets on correctly?

Orl1mjf

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My engine is running hotter than when it had iron heads. I only replaced the heads and valve train, everything else is the same as before the head change. I believe my felpro head gaskets are installed correctly, just want to make sure so I can rule that out. Looking at my pictures, there’s a portion of the head gaskets that are sticking out by the front head bolt. Can anyone confirm these are the tabs I’m looking for to make sure the gaskets are installed correctly?
 

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evilcw311

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You have to pay attention to the cooling passage holes on the gaskets. Yes technically they can go either way but on our motors you have to put them on a certain way to control the water flow. Otherwise the motors run hot.

If I remember correctly the blocked off part of the gasket goes at the front. This forces the coolant to go to the back of the motor and work it’s way forward. This is all due to our reverse flow water pump.


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ttocs

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I am pretty sure you need to remove the heads to see but I am not the expert. Did you burp the rad hose?
 
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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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You have to pay attention to the cooling passage holes on the gaskets. Yes technically they can go either way but on our motors you have to put them on a certain way to control the water flow. Otherwise the motors run hot.

If I remember correctly the blocked off part of the gasket goes at the front. This forces the coolant to go to the back of the motor and work it’s way forward. This is all due to our reverse flow water pump.


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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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Yes, you are correct. I’m almost positive I installed them correctly, I’ve read that they have a tab that sticks out by the front head bolts when installed correctly, which I’m pretty sure is what the pictures show, I was just looking for confirmation.
 
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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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I am pretty sure you need to remove the heads to see but I am not the expert. Did you burp the rad hose?
Yes, I have a bleeding screw in the water outlet, filled radiator with car jacked up as well, I ve fought that problem before.
 

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Easy way to make sure it's burped is to drill a small hole in the thermostat. Right inside where the gasket seals drill a 1/8 in or so hole and make sure it's pointed up when you put it in. This makes sure that when you fill your system that antifreeze will fill on both sides of the thermostat ensuring that is will open up.
 

ttocs

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Easy way to make sure it's burped is to drill a small hole in the thermostat. Right inside where the gasket seals drill a 1/8 in or so hole and make sure it's pointed up when you put it in. This makes sure that when you fill your system that antifreeze will fill on both sides of the thermostat ensuring that is will open up.
or just wait till its warm and squeeze the upper hose 2-3 times
 

CobraEd

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High point of the coolant system is where the heater hoses go onto the firewall & air bubbles tend to migrate to the high spot. Before I added coolant to my crate engine, I bought a Lisle spill proof funnel. It has extensions so that the funnel is way above the system high point & it seals to the radiator fill poi t in place of the radiator cap. You dont have to hold it with your hand. Pour the coolant in with excess coolant in the funnel, start the car & let it run until you see no more air bubbles coming up to the see thru funnel. I've done it many times the old way, but this is so much easier & more foolproof to make sure you ha e all of the air bled out.
 
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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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High point of the coolant system is where the heater hoses go onto the firewall & air bubbles tend to migrate to the high spot. Before I added coolant to my crate engine, I bought a Lisle spill proof funnel. It has extensions so that the funnel is way above the system high point & it seals to the radiator fill poi t in place of the radiator cap. You dont have to hold it with your hand. Pour the coolant in with excess coolant in the funnel, start the car & let it run until you see no more air bubbles coming up to the see thru funnel. I've done it many times the old way, but this is so much easier & more foolproof to make sure you ha e all of the air bled out.
Thanks, however everyone is missing my question, I’m looking for verification my head gaskets are installed correctly, I’m positive I have bled all the air out, I basically do everything everyone has mentioned. Again, I’m looking for confirmation that the head gaskets tabs that show proper orientation are what’s showing by my front cylinder head bolts. Thanks again
 

CobraEd

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20200710_121403.jpg 20200710_121312.jpg 20200710_121022.jpg 20200710_121001.jpg I did read your post but thought air in coolant might also be a possibility.

You are correct that there would be some gasket overhang beyond the block ONLY at the front. I have a set of 9333PT1s laying around as well as a bare 302 roller block. I verified that this is correct by placing the gaskets on the block (front marked end forward of course) and there is approximately 1/2" forward overhang on the PS at the lower edge, & approximately 1/4" forward overhang on the DS at the lower edge. In this orientation the 2 big coolant passages on the front of each deck are blocked off, & the big passages at the back are open to circulate coolant through the head.
 

CobraEd

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I did read your post but thought air in coolant might also be a possibility.

You are correct that there would be some gasket overhang beyond the block ONLY at the front. I have a set of 9333PT1s laying around as well as a bare 302 roller block. I verified that this is correct by placing the gaskets on the block (front marked end forward of course) and there is approximately 1/2" forward overhang on the PS at the lower edge, & approximately 1/4" forward overhang on the DS at the lower edge. In this orientation the 2 big coolant passages on the front of each deck are blocked off, & the big passages at the back are open to circulate coolant through the head.
 
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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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I did read your post but thought air in coolant might also be a possibility.

You are correct that there would be some gasket overhang beyond the block ONLY at the front. I have a set of 9333PT1s laying around as well as a bare 302 roller block. I verified that this is correct by placing the gaskets on the block (front marked end forward of course) and there is approximately 1/2" forward overhang on the PS at the lower edge, & approximately 1/4" forward overhang on the DS at the lower edge. In this orientation the 2 big coolant passages on the front of each deck are blocked off, & the big passages at the back are open to circulate coolant through the head.
Thanks for the confirmation, I’m going to change out my tstat to see if it helps, thanks again.
 
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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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Glad to help.
This is what I’m working on, I just installed afr heads, the engine seems to run about 15-20 degrees hotter.
 

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CobraEd

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What thermostat do you have in it now? Are you on stock radiator? What temp is it running at? Running stock waterpump? Underdrive pulleys?

I have an 85 GT with Ford Performance crate engine. I'd rather have AFRs than the GT40X heads that came on it. I have a 180 degree Robert Shaw stat & Fluidyne radiator & it's running right around 180 in 90 degree heat.

I also have an 03 Cobra which is why I'm in this group.



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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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What thermostat do you have in it now? Are you on stock radiator? What temp is it running at? Running stock waterpump? Underdrive pulleys?
You know, I didn’t even think of the under drive pullies
I have an 85 GT with Ford Performance crate engine. I'd rather have AFRs than the GT40X heads that came on it. I have a 180 degree Robert Shaw stat & Fluidyne radiator & it's running right around 180 in 90 degree heat.

I also have an 03 Cobra which is why I'm in this group.



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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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Thanks, Your questions made me remember I also installed underdrive pulleys at the same time, didn’t even think about that. I would bet that’s my issue. I’ll swap out the pulleys if the new thermostat doesn’t help, it’s a 195, I just want to make sure it’s not sticking. Thanks again.
 

CobraEd

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Thanks, Your questions made me remember I also installed underdrive pulleys at the same time, didn’t even think about that. I would bet that’s my issue. I’ll swap out the pulleys if the new thermostat doesn’t help, it’s a 195, I just want to make sure it’s not sticking. Thanks again.
Yes good idea to ditch the underdrive pulleys & see if it cools back down.

I have a small leak around my thermostat housing & have to take it apart anyway so I think I'm going to go up from a 180 to a 195 stat. In cool weather warm up would be delayed & the oil needs to get up to temp before really getting on it.
 
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Orl1mjf

Orl1mjf

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Yes good idea to ditch the underdrive pulleys & see if it cools back down.

I have a small leak around my thermostat housing & have to take it apart anyway so I think I'm going to go up from a 180 to a 195 stat. In cool weather warm up would be delayed & the oil needs to get up to temp before really getting on it.
Yeah, On mine I believe the computer doesn’t kick the fan on till 205 if I remember correctly, a lesser thermostat won’t really do anything unless I reprogram the computer fan temp or get a fan controller. Hoping the underdrives solve it, changing them now just to make sure. Thanks again. Mike
 

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