heads+cam, best bang for buck?

rilsy

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i have a 94gt with the usual boltons with 4.10 r&p. im looking for a good head and cam combo that wont kill my bank acount considering im a college student with low funds. the thumper heads from http://www.thumperoforangepark.com/ seem to be a really good option for me considering they are ready to bolt on compared to a set of used gt40s. but what cam?TFS1 seems to be pretty popular. i want to get a combo that will go well with my steep gears..my best 1/4m is 14.9 with 1.9 60ft.. tryin to get mid/low 13s.. what do u guys think?
 

Schiffy

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I think you should be an LS1.... just kidding... i think i want to go to this website and check out these heads...
 

Paul

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If you get GT40p heads, then you have to change your headers too. Plus there are significantly better options out there.

What is your budget?

IMHO, the thumper heads are not a good choice. Why spend $600 (or $700 with real springs) for a set of heads that, at best, are mediocre performers? They have small valves, mediocre flow, and not much room for growth. For a few hundred more you can buy a set of aluminum Edelbrocks, TFS, or other heads that already come with better springs, larger valves, rocker studs (not pedestals), better flow, and more room to grow - not to mention there is a significant weight break and better cooling capacity with aluminum heads.

As far as cams go - for a mild combination there are many off-the-shelf choices that would work. e.g. TFS1, Comp XE line of cams, etc. Make sure you upgrade the intake at the same time. If you want to save some money, buy a used intake manifold. They can be had all over the net, they don't wear out, and will work just fine for you. Look at intakes like Edelbrock Performer, TFS Street, Holley Systemax, etc...

Lastly, if you want to go faster for less money without all the work. Just buy a blower. The install is easier, they can be had used on the corral relatively inexpensively, (just make sure they have been treated well and all the parts are there) and they can be installed in a weekend.

Paul.
 

quickstang_1994

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Paul said:
If you get GT40p heads, then you have to change your headers too. Plus there are significantly better options out there.

What is your budget?

IMHO, the thumper heads are not a good choice. Why spend $600 (or $700 with real springs) for a set of heads that, at best, are mediocre performers? They have small valves, mediocre flow, and not much room for growth. For a few hundred more you can buy a set of aluminum Edelbrocks, TFS, or other heads that already come with better springs, larger valves, rocker studs (not pedestals), better flow, and more room to grow - not to mention there is a significant weight break and better cooling capacity with aluminum heads.

As far as cams go - for a mild combination there are many off-the-shelf choices that would work. e.g. TFS1, Comp XE line of cams, etc. Make sure you upgrade the intake at the same time. If you want to save some money, buy a used intake manifold. They can be had all over the net, they don't wear out, and will work just fine for you. Look at intakes like Edelbrock Performer, TFS Street, Holley Systemax, etc...

Lastly, if you want to go faster for less money without all the work. Just buy a blower. The install is easier, they can be had used on the corral relatively inexpensively, (just make sure they have been treated well and all the parts are there) and they can be installed in a weekend.

Paul.

I agree.
Around here you can find p heads and headers cheap(under $500 for both)
 
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rilsy

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thanks for the info so far.. i looked around in the local classifies and found a pair of TF twisted wedge heads for 800 bucks, they have 1000 miles on them and come with 1.6 RR for 100 bucks more. i have about 1400 total to spend so this might be a good deal. im not familiar with the difference beteen 1.6 and 1.7 RRs, so would someone please enlighten me... thanks
 

Paul

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Well, essentially the 1.7 rockers will multiply cam lobe lift by 1.7 while the 1.6s will multiply by 1.6. Thusly, the 1.7s will provide a small amount more lift and duration at the valve.

Even buying used stuff, it will be hard to stay under $1400. Keep in mind that you still have to buy head gaskets, intake gaskets, RTV, coolant, oil, header gaskets, etc... Plus you should probably get a throttle body at the same time, and head studs would be a good idea too.

Paul.
 

quickstang_1994

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The lift you see in cam spec is with 1.6 rocker. Just say you have a .444 (stock)lift using 1.7 it changes it to around .472 lift.
 

2slo95fiveoh

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tri state cylinder heads sells GT40 aluminum "turbo swirl" heads for $550/pr complete. then you could buy a used intake of choice for $300-400, and a
new cam for around $200. then you have the extra money needed to buy a gasket set, possibly a tb, etc....
 
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rilsy

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another question.. say i get the trickflow heads and stage one cam in. will i need a tune to drive it? i know it would help alot to get the car tuned but i wouldnt have the money right away...plus i would want to tune it once i got the upper/lower intake and 70mm TB. thanks for help so far.
 

Paul

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My 89 Coupe has:

Ported TFS TW heads
TFS1 Cam
TFS Street Heat
70mm TB
Pro-M MAF calibrated for 19s

Although the car runs okay with no chip - it is definitely not where I want it to be. I'll be taking it in for a chip/tune in the next 6 months or so. It would say you could probably get away without a tune for a while, but once the entire combination is in place - take it in ASAP.

My car will sometimes not like to idle, it will surge a bit, and another mayhem.

Paul.
 

quickstang_1994

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94-95's are different than fox's computers. A cam will cause hanging idle, surges, and it to cut off every time you stop. Trust me just get heads and rockers unless you want a headache.
 

Paul

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quickstang_1994 said:
94-95's are different than fox's computers. A cam will cause hanging idle, surges, and it to cut off every time you stop.

Isn't that what I just said?
 

Paul

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The alphabet cams were decent about ten years ago. Nowadays there are about a million options that are better in terms of both power production and drivability.
 

quickstang_1994

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Paul said:
The alphabet cams were decent about ten years ago. Nowadays there are about a million options that are better in terms of both power production and drivability.

Your opinion only. I like mine nice sound and good power.
 

Paul

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Not just my opinion. There are lots of people who agree. I've had alphabet cams in the past (B and F to be specific), they idled like crap and made mediocre power. There are literally dozens of cams you could go with today that will make more power with better idle quality than the alphabet soup. Not to mention the wide availability of custom grinds nowadays.

Yours makes power because you're jamming a ton of boost down it.
 

quickstang_1994

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not a ton. the car was even making good power on motor. Plus i said it didn't idle but a tune fixes that. And blaming it on the cam you might want to try the rest of the set up everything has to work together not just one piece.
 

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