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Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by Mbachota97, Apr 8, 2007.
Has anybody replaced this and if so how hard is it to do? Thanks
When mine went out I decided just to pay $400 to a shop over here to fix it for me. One of the steps in my Haynes manual was to evacuate all of the refrigerant in the AC system since the AC lines at the heater core have to be opened for it's removal. I thought that alone was way over my head. Besides, it looked like way too much of a PITA to do myself, Lol!
its a total pain in the ass, and yes you will have to vent the AC lines to pull the heater core.
it will take a lot of time to remove the seats, center console, and dash. at least a 4-8 hour job ahead of you.
i had to have a second hand to manuever the dash out of the car also.
I dont know about on 97s but on 5.0s its at least an all day thing unless you have done it before. So before you do anything go to autozone and pick up a bottle of the stop leak. Its clear with copper in the bottom and when you shake it its all copper. Its like 4$ and it works really good. My friend had his heater core start leaking so bad it would shoot coolant onto the windshield. Put two bottles of that stuff in his car in the parking lot and it hasnt leaked once in 3 months and he has his heater back and everything. Its worth a try its only 4$.
Remove A/C evaporator case assembly.
Disconnect vacuum harness from A/C evaporator case and position aside.
Remove four heater core cover retaining screws. Remove heater core cover from A/C evaporator case.
Remove heater dash panel seal from heater core tubes.
Lift heater core from A/C evaporator case.
Install new heater core case seal.
Install heater core in A/C evaporator case.
Install heater dash panel seal on heater core tubes.
Position heater core cover on A/C evaporator case. Install four retaining screws.
Connect vacuum harness to A/C evaporator case.
Install A/C evaporator case.
takes 4.5 hours
*this is how to remove evap case assembly*
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Remove instrument panel.
Place a drain pan or suitable container under the heater water hose connections at the cowl panel.
Recover refrigerant from A/C system at service access gauge port valve located on suction line. Observe all safety precautions.
Remove suction accumulator/drier.
Remove two nuts retaining A/C accumulator bracket to cowl panel and remove A/C accumulator bracket.
Disconnect condenser to evaporator tube from A/C evaporator core inlet tube at cowl panel using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool T81P-19623-G2 or equivalent. Cap refrigerant lines and evaporator core tube to prevent entrance of dirt and excess moisture.
Disconnect heater water hoses from heater core tubes and plug heater water hoses with suitable 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch plugs. Cap heater core tubes to prevent coolant loss from heater core during removal of A/C evaporator case.
Disconnect vacuum supply hose (black) from vacuum source in engine compartment.
Remove nut retaining A/C evaporator case to cowl panel.
Inside passenger compartment, remove one screw retaining the bottom of the A/C evaporator case to cowl panel.
Remove screw retaining A/C evaporator case support bracket to cowl top panel.
Remove nut retaining A/C evaporator case mounting bracket to cowl top panel.
Disconnect wire harness connector at blower motor.
Carefully pull A/C evaporator case away from cowl panel and remove from vehicle.
Install A/C evaporator case to cowl panel.
Install nut retaining A/C evaporator case to cowl top bracket. Tighten to 10.2-13.8 N.m (91-122 Lb-In) .
Install screw retaining A/C evaporator case to cowl top bracket. Tighten to 10.2-13.8 N.m (91-122 Lb-In) .
Install screw retaining the bottom of the A/C evaporator case to cowl panel. Tighten screw to 1.6-2.2 N.m (15-19 Lb-In) .
Working under hood, install nut retaining A/C evaporator case to cowl panel. Tighten nut to 6.6-9.4 N.m (59-83 Lb-In) .
Connect vacuum supply hose (black) to vacuum source in engine compartment and connect blower motor connector.
Connect two heater water hoses to heater core inlet and outlet tubes.
Connect condenser to evaporator tube to A/C evaporator core inlet tube.
Install A/C accumulator bracket to cowl panel and secure with two nuts. Tighten to 6.6-9.4 N.m (59-83 Lb-In) .
Install suction accumulator/drier.
Install instrument panel.
Connect battery ground cable.
Charge refrigerant system. Observe all safety precautions.
After service has been completed, check the engine coolant level in the radiator and in the radiator coolant recovery reservoir. Fill as required with the recommended coolant mixture.
Hope this helps
Thanks alot guys i might just have a shop do it. It was leaking on the driver side and getting on my foot when i started from a stop. I just had the pi swap done and didnt have the problem before until now. I think that they couldve left a hose unhooked but i dont know for sure. It was leaking on the driver side and getting on my foot when i started from a stop.
oh man! i am so sorry for you! it is a PITA! i got lucky though. it only took my mechanic 5 hours. one shop told me it would cost around $695, my mechanic charged me $350. if i were you i'd call around to different shops. GOOD LUCK! if you have any more questions let us know.
nice write up! O0
when i did the one in my 97gt, i removed the center console and dash and then cut the heater core cover plate w/ a pair of tin snips to where i could get the core out w/o removing the HVAC box. Swapped cores, bolted the "cut" piece of the cover back on and then some trusty ductape over the cut. worked like a charm, and saved alot of hassle.
whatever works. i'm sure that saved a ton of time too!
oh yea... made it a 3 hour job
honestly i would DIY its time consuming but youll save yourself a lot of money and its not like u can mess anything up
good luck either way
I haven't had the pleasure of doing mine yet but my friends 97 went and he wasn't happy about doing it.
Can you bypass it rather then replace it if you don't ever need heat? Also what does it weigh? If mine fails i would ditch it instead of replacing it if it served no other purpose.
yea you can bypass it. only thing you use it for is heat.. and defrosting the windsheild
bypass is VERY easy to do and its at least a good temporary fix
My friend bypassed his and it sucked... no heater and he had to wipe his windshield off all the time so he could see in the winter time.
That stuff I was talking about that he fixed his with is made by car-go its called called copper seal up and its 5 bucks i highly recommend trying that first..... but its your car.
take it somewhere.... unless your poor then buy a 24 pack and be ready for hell. O0
well i had it bypassed for now til winter and then get it fixed when i have to.
i wouldnt use any type of sealents because they are known to plug EVERYTHING up...just DIY this fall or something