HELLPPP!! FUEL PUMP WILL NOT WORK

That inertia switch is somewhere! Go fish!

My 96 is located trunk tail light wall to the left. Youll need to remove some wall interior, possible trunk latch beauty panel. Dig in and find it!

Be sure to report back if it was the inertia switch

 

First you should not disconnect the fuel Line to check for fuel
Thats what a fuel psi gage is for testing
Like @96blak54 said check the trunk for your inertia switch
Pink with blue stripe positive wire

 

Might want to double check power flowing thru the switch. Then maybe apply power straight to the pump just to see if it will in fact run.

 

the inertia switch tripped I bet. On my 94 its in the trunk behind the liner on the drivers side in front of the tail light area. Its a little black box with a red dot switch on it and it designed to turn off the pump if your in an accident. Push the red dot/switch to reset it and it should fire up

it looks like this
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9341AK/mus...MIy5nX4fnq6wIVFBvnCh1o7QrUEAQYASABEgIJD_D_BwE

 

Use a car battery with leads attached to the terminals.

Edit: just realized it's possible the fuel pump doesn't run off a full 12v. Can someone chime in?

My suggestion is to start at the plug that plugs into the pump. Check for voltage and make your way backwards until you find power.

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Ok. Did u check signal to the inertia switch
Fuse relay. Can u manually prime the pump if so the u know wires you tested are good up to the component you bypassed

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You said you checked the wires at the pump and got a proper reading? What exactly did you check? If you have voltage and ground at the pump connector but the pump doesn’t run, then the pump is bad or has a bad connection inside the tank.

 

this is easy to do there should be 12v on both wires. If the switch was either bad or had a bad connection it would do this

 

I have 1 question
When you removed the oil pan that you stated
Was there a wire harness under the front oil pan

 

I’m not sure why you would check the fuse by inserting the negative lead and the positive lead into the fuse. If I were you, I’d keep the negative lead on the negative battery terminal. Then I would place the positive lead on one side of the top of the fuse, where the metal extends above the fuse. Then place that same positive lead on top of the other side of the fuse. If you have 12 volt power on both, it would appear that the fuse is good. If you actually pull the fuse, you can test it by placing the VOM into the resistance mode. Then you would take one lead and place it on one leg of the fuse and place the other lead and place it on the other leg of the fuse. If the fuse is good, your resistance reading should read close zero ohms of resistance. If however the fuse is bad, you would see a high resistance value.


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What I'm thinking is he might have created a similar problem
With wire harness at the bottom of the oil pan
All those wires are at the side by the battery and fuse box

 

including oil psi switch sensors

 

I know that I may be comparing apples to kumquats here, but my daughter had an issue with her Mercury Mariner (3.0 Liter V6) not starting. When I checked the connector to the fuel pump for voltage, I thought I had 12.6 volts to it. But before I replaced the pump, I checked to make sure that she had a good ground to the pump connection and I found that she didn’t. I had 12.6 volts power, but no ground. It wound up being the crappy aftermarket fuel pump driver module that I replaced on it three weeks prior. After I replaced it with a new Motorcraft one, the pump fired right up.


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Could be