HELLPPP!! FUEL PUMP WILL NOT WORK

[evilcw311]

What should it be reading? And if it’s getting power is the problem still upstream?

No of its getting power then you need a new pump.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Will Rey]

So when I got the mustang the owner told me he already put a new pump in it and then when the car wouldn’t start I went to advanced and bought another pump but the pump they gave me didn’t look new it didn’t come in plastic and it didn’t come with the socks is it possible they just gave me a defective pump. Should I buy a pump online and replace the one I bought at advanced and see if it works?

 

[lwarrior1016]

If it’s only getting 6v, that’s not enough.

 

[lwarrior1016]

So now you need to go up toward the ccrm. We need to get a wiring diagram and see the pin out of the ccrm. I don’t think I’ve got that anymore.

 

[Will Rey]

Well I have a CCRM I pulled out of a 1998 Mustang should I just replace it and see if it works?

 

[white95]

https://my.prostreetonline.com/2015/01/22/check-ford-mustang-ccrm/

 

[Will Rey]

So now that i have the diagram what should I do? Also isn’t there a Fuel Pump before the CCRM or is that in the CCRM?

 

[ttocs]

just to clarify you have 6v on both wires at the switch

 

[Werecow]

If not getting power to the inertia switch in the trunk, the next place to check is the power relay before the ECU.. it's located over the ECU in the passenger side kick panel... I don't believe you're getting power to the ECU.. it's very seldom that a ccrm actually goes out, all they have in them are relays sealed in an epoxy shell.

 

[Will Rey]

So now that i have the diagram what should I do? Also isn’t there a Fuel Pump before the CCRM or is that in the CCRM?

I meant to say Fuel Pump Relay

 

[Werecow]

Fuel pump relay is in the CCRM, along with the electric fan relays for low and high speed on the fan..

 

[ttocs]

If not getting power to the inertia switch in the trunk, the next place to check is the power relay before the ECU.. it's located over the ECU in the passenger side kick panel... I don't believe you're getting power to the ECU.. it's very seldom that a ccrm actually goes out, all they have in them are relays sealed in an epoxy shell.

I agree if and only if he checked both wires on the inertia switch. If he only stabbed one of them and tested it and the switch is bad it could have 12v on one wire and 6 on the other going to the pump but again you need to do this while someone is turning the key on.

 

[Will Rey]

Will cranking the car when it won’t turn in damage it tho? That’s what I’m afraid of I don’t wanna cause more damage.

 

[evilcw311]

Will cranking the car when it won’t turn in damage it tho? That’s what I’m afraid of I don’t wanna cause more damage.

No it’s not going to damage anything. They just turn the key to on and off a few times.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigmike636]

I hate to be a pain, but where were the meter leads when you took that picture ? If you had one lead on one side of the switch and the other lead on the other side of the switch, you wouldn’t see 12 volts. Now if you had one lead attached to a good ground and the other lead on one side of the switch, you should see 12 volts. Then if you were to move that same lead to the other side of the switch and had 12 volts again, it would appear that the inertia switch is closed, allowing voltage to pass through it. Of course these readings have to be made with the meter reading DC volts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ttocs]

we are not telling you to turn it on to crank, just to the run position. When you do you should be able to hear the pump prime for 5-6 secs(it will make a humming noise from the back of the car). ITs during that first 5-6 secs that you need to have the meter reading so its easier for you to stab it and then ask your helper to turn it to run. Be sure to test BOTH wires on the switch they should read the same

 

[ttocs]

I hate to be a pain, but where were the meter leads when you took that picture ? If you had one lead on one side of the switch and the other lead on the other side of the switch, you wouldn’t see 12 volts. Now if you had one lead attached to a good ground and the other lead on one side of the switch, you should see 12 volts. Then if you were to mice that same lead to the other side of the switch and had 12 volts again, it would appear that the inertia switch is closed, allowing voltage to pass through it. Of course these readings have to be made with the meter reading DC volts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As he said while there are two wires with the meter grounded to the chassis they should both show 12v. IF you did stab both wires at the same time and that is where the 6v reading came from then we have found the problem.

 

[evilcw311]

As he said while there are two wires with the meter grounded to the chassis they should both show 12v. IF you did stab both wires at the same time and that is where the 6v reading came from then we have found the problem.

Scott do one of your tutorial videos to show how to properly do this.

Hopefully with a little less twerking this time. [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Will Rey]

Of course I have my meter in DC when I’m measuring the volts and my ground lead is attached to a jumper cable that’s attached to the negative lead to make sure I have a good ground. But you guys keep telling me to stab the wire with the lead. Do I actually stab the wire or do I just disconnect the connector to the Inertia switch and check the voltage in the connector pins?

 

[lwarrior1016]

Having your negative lead grounded is good. Now, checking the wires to the switch, you can check one wire with it unplugged or, you can check the wires from the backside. I just sent and looked at mine, the terminals are accessible from the back with it plugged in. If it’s plugged in, both wires should have 12v on both of them.

If I’m not clear enough, I can video it and post it here.