HELLPPP!! FUEL PUMP WILL NOT WORK

ttocs

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if you can you want to check it while the switch is plugged in. I say "STAB" because that is literally what you can do if you have the right tip on your tool. Just poke through the insulation till you get a reading but if you don't have a sharp tip your probably going to stab your finger with a dull one instead. If you can't do that then try to slide the lead up into the back of a harness where a wire goes into and there is metal in there that if it reaches it will connect to.
 

Adfalenski

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I don’t know if this relates but I have a 2000 3.8. It has a Fuel Pump Driver Module located under the trunk trim over the left rear wheel well. The PCM drives this module which in turn drives the fuel pump. This MAY possibly be the culprit.
 

lwarrior1016

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I don’t know if this relates but I have a 2000 3.8. It has a Fuel Pump Driver Module located under the trunk trim over the left rear wheel well. The PCM drives this module which in turn drives the fuel pump. This MAY possibly be the culprit.
98 and earlier didn’t have that module. In 99 they went to a variable speed fuel pump that has to be driven by that module.
 

Will Rey

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So I have a update for you guys I went and checked and did everything you guys told me and I’m still getting 6 volts from the green yellow wire I’ll post a picture of the reading and from the other pink/brown wire im getting .4 volts. So does that mean I have a bad inertia switch also now I have a different problem. Then car won’t even try to crank I turn the car to crank it on and I hear one click and then it dies and now it won’t get power. I just recently charged the battery so I believe it’s the alternator that died and I need to get a new one, If someone can confirm that for me.
 

Will Rey

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This is how I had the lead connected to the wires and what the readings were.
 

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lwarrior1016

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Just for laughs, did you check your battery voltage with the meter? If the car hasn’t been run, then the alternator has not had a chance to recharge the battery. I wouldn’t change that yet. 6v at the pump is not enough. Check the battery, if that’s good, swap the ccrm and see what happens.
 

ttocs

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both times with the key being turned on? IF so that is your problem. For shits and giggles I would disconnect the switch, connect the two wires somehow and see if it worked
 

Will Rey

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I swapped the CCRM a couple days ago and when I turned the car over still nothing and if I do disconnect the wires and put them together and it does work Can that be a permanent fix or do I still need to replace the inertia switch and put the wires back
 

ttocs

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The inertia switch is a safety device that will shut off power to the fuel pump in an accident. I would have no problem bypassing it to test it but I would try not to drive it with out it myself. For a quick test you can probably just cram a piece of wire in the harness and give it a try or strip a bit of wire on each going to it and then just twist them together. You can always insulate the wires with some tape afterwards.
 

Boostr1

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When I was testing my new fuel hat and pumps, I grounded one lead, and had the other plugged into the wire feeding the Inertia switch. I placed my cell phone next to the meter hit record and went and turned the ignition on. Came back and played back the recording making sure I was getting 12 volts. I still think he isn't understanding that the switch only gets 12 volt momentarily when turning on the ignition. OP try it this way so ya don't need a second person. I was confused as well when I only saw 6 volts at the switch.
 

Will Rey

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Imma replace the fuel pump again that one of my friends gave me that I know works and let y’all know the results then take it from there bc from everything thing you guys have told me I don’t see an electrically problem I get voltage to the pump so shouldn’t I hear it buzz. And imma bypass the inertia switch
 

Werecow

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While you have the tank out do all your troubleshooting to the connection that goes to the pump... If your not getting any power to the connection there then it's no use throwing another pump at it. I just went thru this on my 90 LX. Make sure you are getting power back there first before you put it all back together.. It took me 2 weeks to find my issue and yours could be anything, bad harness to the pump even..
 

ttocs

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I am confused. Are you replacing the pump just because or do you think that what you have done shows the pump is bad? At this point it looks like your switch is dropping voltage and needs to be replaced and even if yo put a known good pump in its still not going to see the voltage it needs.
 

evilcw311

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Let’s make it easy since your having a hard time understanding the help we’re trying to give you.






Take it to a mechanic problem solved. Seriously. We’ve tried to walk you through very easy and basic troubleshooting and either your not listening or not understanding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bigmike636

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I swapped the CCRM a couple days ago and when I turned the car over still nothing and if I do disconnect the wires and put them together and it does work Can that be a permanent fix or do I still need to replace the inertia switch and put the wires back

If you bypassed the inertia switch by putting them together and it works, you’ve found the issue ! Or am I missing something ? Why would you want to replace the fuel pump if “it does work?”


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RAU03MACH

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Let’s make it easy since your having a hard time understanding the help we’re trying to give you.






Take it to a mechanic problem solved. Seriously. We’ve tried to walk you through very easy and basic troubleshooting and either your not listening or not understanding.


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I still think he has some other issues besides the fuel system
Both issues any issues if your not mechanically inclined youl never understand what to look for
 

ttocs

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I was not sure if he was just upgrading the pump because or if that he though it was the problem.
 

lwarrior1016

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Well, I still never heard if he checked battery voltage. He still never said if the voltage at the switch got up to 12v during the prime cycle (2-3 seconds immediately when the key comes on). If it’s only getting 6v, the pump will not come on.


It sounds like you want someone to tell you the pump is bad. From the tests you’ve ran and the little information you’ve given up, I cannot say if the pump is bad or not.


Go ahead and replace the pump. Let us know what happens and I’ll try to help you again.
 

Will Rey

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I am understand what you guys are saying but listen I’ve already taken it to a mechanic shop and they have told me that there isn’t an electrical issue and that all that needs to be replaced is the pump. But they wanted to charge me 500 bucks so I bought the pump myself at Advanced Auto Parts and replaced it myself easy. But when I go to start the car the pump doesn’t prime. Therefore I think the mechanic shop diagnosed it wrong so I came on here to see if I could get some help. That’s where we are at rn. From what I’ve done so far thru what you guys are telling me I’ve ruled out a couple of problems it isn’t. So right now I’m kinda stuck at if the pump they gave me at Advanced is defective or I have a connection issue somewhere. Ig I’ll just take it upon myself to figure it out thanks for the help.
 

ttocs

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let me put this plain an simple. You should have the exact same voltage on those two wires at the inertia switch no matter if its 12v, or 6. The fact its dropping so much voltage leads me to believe it is the switch but again this is only if you were measuring it the way we told you and I am still not sure it is. Again you can test this easily by simply disconnect the switch and figuring out a way to connect the two wires that go to the switch. If it were me I would strip away a 1/4" of insulation a few inches down from the harness on both wires, and then simply twist them together temporarily. Cover it with some tape to be sure it does not short out and then see if the car will start. If it does, you switch was the problem and replacing it and putting some tape on the wires where you stripped them should take all of 5 mins. Dropping your tank to replace the pump I will bet will take you 3-4 hours by the sound of how this is going so far. If it were me I am lazy and would do the 10 min test before I ever started to drop the tank but that is up to you. I am out, good luck.
 

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