Here's how our 94-04 locks and keys work:

Duckboy4

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I am a 30 year locksmith in Central Illinois.
I was responding to another thread and explaining this to another member. I thought it deserved its own tech thread, as locks and keys are often beyond the interest/technical abilities of the everyday mechanic.

Ford ignition locks from our era do not have key code numbers anywhere on them. Even if they did, you would first have to remove the ignition cylinder from the housing on the column in order to read it, or the door lock from the door (which is a real PITA). Ignition lock removal is easy if you have a key. Just turn it to "on" and depress the retainer pin under the column and pull the cylinder out. If you don't have a key, you're faced with a *much* more difficult task.

Mustangs from 1994-1996 were built under Ford's 10-cut key system (see image below of a keying diagram of a 10-cut vehicle). The tumblers in the doors pertain to positions 1-6 on the key, and the tumblers in the ignition pertain to positions 5-10 (with only 5 and 6 overlapping). They literally use different parts of the key. The trunk, in Mustang's case, is just another door lock, since the back seats fold all the way down. In short, extrapolating key cuts from a door lock will only get you 2/6 of the ignition key. Attempting to guess the remaining four positions would be nearly mathematically impossible. This is where locksmith tools come in to play.

Mustangs from 1997-2014 were equipped with Ford's 8-cut key system (see chart below). The graphic shows two possibilities of what tumbler positions might be found where, but inside the 8 cut system, this tended to migrate over the years. Below is the most common setup. As you can see from the 8 cut system, if you had the door cuts, it would be much easier to go through the mathematical guesses in order to obtain a working ignition key.

Why Ford switched to the 8 cut system is beyond me. I found the 10 cut system to be VERY reliable and not prone to failure/corrosion. The ignition locks did tend to get worn out and were subsequently easy to steal. That's just one of the reasons why Ford added the PATS1 immobilizer system in 1996 as an option for GTs and Cobras. So, next time you go to get that modern car key duplicated, and it costs you a couple hundred dollars, you can thank the Ford Mustang, as they were the first in the American industry to include a transponder in the key.

I'm happy to answer any lock/key related questions!
 

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cobrajeff96

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Great info.

I do have a question....
I can't seem to turn my key the old fashioned way to open doors/trunk (thank goodness for the electronic locks and keyfob). What'd be the most likely culprit?
 
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Duckboy4

Duckboy4

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Great info.

I do have a question....
I can't seem to turn my key the old fashioned way to open doors/trunk (thank goodness for the electronic locks and keyfob). What'd be the most likely culprit?
Did the key *ever* turn in the locks? If so, then your locks are simply corroded. Spray liberal amounts of WD-40 (or your light spray lubricant of choice) and run the key in and out many times. Then turn the key left and right many times. You might be able to free it up without disassembly. Keep in mind the trunk lock only turns to the right. If this does not free them up, removal, disassembly, cleaning, and reinstallation will be necessary. Only in extreme cases is replacement needed.
If the key you're using never worked in those locks (at least to your knowledge) it's possible the ignition lock was changed and you simply do not have the correct key for the doors/trunk. A good locksmith should be able to get you a key that works all three for $50-100.00.
 

ttocs

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nice to have a locksmith onboard. Welcome to the group and thanks for sharing. I have to say I have always been curious about locksport after stumbling across the lockpicking lawyers youtube page and I have been THIS close to ordering some pics to start the games. Do you have any experience picking short of raking or jiggling?
 

96blak54

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I have high respect for a locksmith! I gained control over my work place building maintenance and keyed entrys included and dang is it a whole-nother universe to learn. I stay to basic as i can and call the locksmith when its beyond me. This building is 40yr old and they want to keep things "original".
 
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Duckboy4

Duckboy4

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nice to have a locksmith onboard. Welcome to the group and thanks for sharing. I have to say I have always been curious about locksport after stumbling across the lockpicking lawyers youtube page and I have been THIS close to ordering some pics to start the games. Do you have any experience picking short of raking or jiggling?
Rake and tension is my go-to method, but a lot of my guys really like the Lishi picks. Only problem with them is you have to buy a specific pick for each lock system. But no conventional lock picking methods apply to our 10-cut and 8-cut ignition locks, as they employ a side bar which renders them useless. 10-cut door locks tend to be somewhat difficult to pick, but 8-cut door locks are sometimes very easy.
 

ttocs

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I am amazed how easy it is to rake most locks and how you can just reach through most masterlocks with a hook to bypass them. I think sooner or later I will try it out just for the challenge. After installing audio/security for way to long I can hotwire at least the older cars with out the transponder stuff easily. I am not looking to use it I think it has something I have always been curious about since the first time I saw a spy movie. Seems like it would be fun for some reason.
 

Slice

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Did the key *ever* turn in the locks? If so, then your locks are simply corroded. Spray liberal amounts of WD-40 (or your light spray lubricant of choice) and run the key in and out many times. Then turn the key left and right many times. You might be able to free it up without disassembly. Keep in mind the trunk lock only turns to the right. If this does not free them up, removal, disassembly, cleaning, and reinstallation will be necessary. Only in extreme cases is replacement needed.
If the key you're using never worked in those locks (at least to your knowledge) it's possible the ignition lock was changed and you simply do not have the correct key for the doors/trunk. A good locksmith should be able to get you a key that works all three for $50-100.00.
I have the same problem as that fellow with my 1995 GT convertible. The key works in the ignition but will not open the doors or trunk and I have endlessly tried lubricating. I'm guessing maybe the ignition tumbler was worn out and the previous owner just replaced that so the key of course will not work in the doors or trunk? I guess I'll be phoning around some locksmiths
 

ttocs

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yup just drive it to the locksmith and you can yank the ignition out right in their parking lot and carry it in. Give it to them with the old key and the one you want to make work and 15 mins later you simply slide it back in just like you would the key, turn it and you are on your way with only one key.
 

Slice

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Ah... I don't have the old keys that work with the door. I bought the Mustang a couple of years ago and the key only works in the ignition and not in the doors or trunk.
 

ttocs

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oh well that changes things then. Duckboy would know for sure but a good locksmith might be able to do it if he can impression/decode the lock, not sure if it is possible with our key system or not but I know it is with some.
 
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Duckboy4

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Ah... I don't have the old keys that work with the door. I bought the Mustang a couple of years ago and the key only works in the ignition and not in the doors or trunk.
In your case, it could go either way. Like you said, the previous owner might have replaced the ignition lock, in which case, that key never worked your doors and trunk. OR all of your door and trunk locks might be seized up with corrosion (which is always possible with one or two...but all three?). Does your key work in the glove box? If not, the ignition lock has almost certainly been changed.
What we would do at that point is go through what are called "try keys" in your door/trunk lock in order to find one that turns. Once a key is found, there is still some math/impressioning to do to get the key perfect (try keys are cut on half-depths in order to significantly reduce the number of mathematical possibilities to try). This is all done without lock removal.
Once you have a door/trunk key, the ignition can either be rekeyed to match the door/trunk key or it can be replaced with one that is compatible with the common cuts the two share. Boom...back on one key.
All of this is assuming, of course, that the door, trunk, and glove box locks haven't been monkeyed with, or harvested from different junk yard cars.
 

cobrajeff96

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You know what....

I think I just simply started using new keys that I reprogrammed (PATS II) because the original had been twisted too many times by the hilt (instead of the cylinder shroud) and a huge chunk of the plastic hilt of the key broke off. I should try that original one.

Would I then just have a qualified or bonded locksmith re-cut the new keys to the original, using the original as some reference?
 

Clutch Cargo

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Perfect timing for me to come across this thread. About a month ago on my 94 GT convertible, I noticed sometimes when I used my key fob to electrically lock or unlock my driver's side door, I would hear a little metal sounding "clank" noise. Not every time and the door has no problem locking or unlocking. But when I tried using my key manually, the door will no longer lock or unlock. The key turns OK back and forth just no lock knob popping up or down. FYI, key works fine on the passenger door.

What do yo think? Something finally broke off after 32 years of ownership? I live in an apartment and they have strict rules about not working on cars. So is this something I would take to a locksmith or to my mechanic? In the mean time I may look at a few YouTubes to see the "innards" of the door. :)
 
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Duckboy4

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You know what....

I think I just simply started using new keys that I reprogrammed (PATS II) because the original had been twisted too many times by the hilt (instead of the cylinder shroud) and a huge chunk of the plastic hilt of the key broke off. I should try that original one.

Would I then just have a qualified or bonded locksmith re-cut the new keys to the original, using the original as some reference?
Yes, bring everything you have to a locksmith. They'll be able to sort it out and give you options going forward.
 
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Duckboy4

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Perfect timing for me to come across this thread. About a month ago on my 94 GT convertible, I noticed sometimes when I used my key fob to electrically lock or unlock my driver's side door, I would hear a little metal sounding "clank" noise. Not every time and the door has no problem locking or unlocking. But when I tried using my key manually, the door will no longer lock or unlock. The key turns OK back and forth just no lock knob popping up or down. FYI, key works fine on the passenger door.

What do yo think? Something finally broke off after 32 years of ownership? I live in an apartment and they have strict rules about not working on cars. So is this something I would take to a locksmith or to my mechanic? In the mean time I may look at a few YouTubes to see the "innards" of the door. :)
Sounds like the pawl on the back of the door lock cylinder has broken or come unattached from the linkage. This can happen many different ways, but especially if someone has been using a "slim jim" to unlock the door.
Repair isn't that big of a deal, but the hardest part will be getting the door panel off. Many locksmiths don't do this sort of work any more due to many things breaking when attempting to remove the door panel. Body shops and mechanics are used to this sort of work if you are banned from doing so in your lot. You may have to do the leg work once the door is opened up, so far as getting replacement broken parts from the dealer/aftermarket/salvage yard. Locksmiths may have replacement pawls...we still do.
 

ttocs

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As he said that probably is not a difficult fix. You would need to take the door panel off to get some eyes on it but it is just a plastic clip that snaps onto the rod that probably slipped off and just needs to be put back on.

Funny you mention the slim jim as I got some MAJOR brownie points with a girl I was dating(long long ago) when she said she was not able to use the drivers door lock after a security guy slim jimmed the door open when she locked her keys in it. I was installing stereos fulltime at the time so I just squeezed her in and it took a quick 30 mins for me but it had been months of her crawling through her pass door to unlock it from the inside.
 

Mustang5L5

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BTW, the 99-04 PATS keys can be programmed using ForScan if you have the software and are familiar with it. Have done a bunch of them. The Ford licensed keys are made by Strattec P/N 597602 which are $20 or less depending on source. Aftermarket keys can be hit or miss.

 

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