Holley super sniper 5.0 swap no start.

[95sniper5.0]

Hey guys new here. I have a 95 original v6 auto car swapped to t5, I have since did a 5.0 swap with holley super sniper TBI I removed the trans harness ECU and all wiring. Problem started when the swap was finished my starter would no longer work with the key so I put the starter on a switch to get everything going and now have been trying to figure out why the key no longer works the starter? not all that all that great with wiring thanks in advance

 

[white95]

$5 says you need to run a wire from the main power harness to the old wiring in the kick panel to complete the start circuit and it'll work.

 

[ttocs]

Ih you removed the trans harness you got rid of the neutral safety switch

 

[95sniper5.0]

So is there a way could I properly bypass that in the starting circuit for my key to start the car again? Thanks for the replies.

 

[white95]

Yes. Did you leave the dash wiring harness and the fuse box + harness under the hood?

@ttocs do you have the wiring diagram in your reference manual to assist with this?

In my case, I had to run a wire from the big square connector under hood on the passenger and connect it to one of the connectors in the passenger kick panel. This completed the neutral safety switch for the clutch and connected it to the starter relay.

 

[95sniper5.0]

Yes I still have the dash harness and under hood fuse harness. only thing I have removed is the trans harness and the ecu along with its wiring. And also I have already checked all fuses and the starter relay to be on the safe side

 

[95sniper5.0]

The ccrm and its wiring is also gone since I'm running my fuel pump and electric fan through other relays

 

[white95]

I’ll have to see the diagram for your car but I’m 100% sure that’s all you need to do.

I did the same with my Holley install.

 

[ttocs]

I don't have my factory wiring manual near me at the moment but I will take a look later. It should be as easy as jumping a couple of wires but its just finding the right wires.

 

[95sniper5.0]

I see what your saying now but I dont think i have the big square plug anymore the only two plugs left in the passenger side kick panel is I believe a black one and a gray one also two gray plugs that no longer connect to anything starting to sound like I went a little crazy with removing wires I though were no longer needed lol

 

[white95]

Post pictures of the remaining plugs in the kick panel and also the engine bay around where the old air intake went through. I want to see what you have left.

 

[white95]

There is a white with pink wire in the black under hood connector that needs to connect to the red with blue wire in the grey connector left in your kick panel area.

 

[95sniper5.0]

The bottom pic is up towards the radiator support there is no more wires back towards the firewall

 

[white95]

You need to find the (Pin #1) pink/white wire in the larger of the two connectors, like this one:



You can twist the key like you’re starting the car and you should have 12v on pink/white until you let go of the key. Oh and that black/white wire is power to your reverse lights. I believe. The white/blue wire is the passenger running light/turn signal.

 

[white95]

You’re just completing the circuit. Maybe this will help.

 

[95sniper5.0]

You probably just helped me out in multiple ways my front passenger turn signal dosen't work either. I still have the harnesses I took out I'll get that group of wires back together hopefully by this evening and let you know of that solved my problems.
Thank you

 

[95sniper5.0]

That was it I spliced them 2 wires together and ran them outside of the car temporarily it fired right up thanks for all your help! I've been messing with it for days and doing searches online turned out to be one wire. thanks again all who replied

 

[ttocs]

now be aware by doing this you have bypassed your neutral safety switch, as well as the clutch interlock. This means that the car if left in gear and the key is cranked that it will lurch forward/back depending on what gear its left in. If you have never seen this done take my word for it that LURCH is the right word. If you have a remote start or are thinking of one this can be a VERY bad combination. Years ago on mustangforums a dude on there asked me how to do this and I could tell he was installing his own remote start. I warned him there were system that are made to do this but he was not using one and it could end up badly. He didn't believe me and found his own way to go around it. 3 months later he was pissed when he dropped his car off at the local dealer for service and the tech went out to pull it in, hit the remote start and then watched that car jump a curb, drive under a fence and into a lake.....

 

[white95]

^ You’re right about the dangers associated but this wouldn’t work if the neutral safety was taken out of the equation. When he removed the CCRM, and its harness, he effectively interrupted the circuit. We just reconnected it. The diagram above doesn’t show the total picture, I’ll find the better one and post it.



All of the safety interlocks are down stream from the splice!

 

[ttocs]

I am not scolding anyone I just wanted him to know before he found out when he was in the garage, had someone in front or behind the car.....

There really isn't any reason to disconnect or remove the tranny harness. I am running an holley just like white but I still have the nuetral safety included in mine. You will also be loosing your reverse lights with out that harness if I am not mistaken. The only way around that will be to install your own switch and run wires to the lights. Not a big deal for a track car yet there will come a time when you will probably wish it was still there.