Holley super sniper 5.0 swap no start.

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95sniper5.0

95sniper5.0

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By removing this jumper in the driver side kick panel I believe is part of the neutral safety switch? Then allows the clutch safety switch to work. Even with the way @white95 had me rewire my starter circut my CSS still works. I do appreciate the word of caution @ttocs I have had my car lurch forward on me without that jumper unplugged. Reason for ditching my trans harness is when I got the trans for the swap from auto the harnesses plugs were all broke and would hardly stay on the sensors, as well as a good chunk of the wires being burnt. So I just ditched it when I did the v8 swap
 

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years ago I was working on an BEAUTIFUL classic olds 442 installing a stereo for a customer. I needed to find an ignition wire so I was sitting on the floor next to it to get access to the ignition harness under the column. I would probe a wire, turn the key, and then repeat till I found the ignition. At one point I turned it just a HAIR too far and I heard the starter crank 3 times and then felt the car start lurching forward. Thankfully as soon as I released the key it turned off but not before dragging me almost 4 foot forward and nearly leaving a brown streak the whole way if it were not for my boxer briefs....
 

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View attachment 2495

By removing this jumper in the driver side kick panel I believe is part of the neutral safety switch? Then allows the clutch safety switch to work. Even with the way @white95 had me rewire my starter circut my CSS still works. I do appreciate the word of caution @ttocs I have had my car lurch forward on me without that jumper unplugged. Reason for ditching my trans harness is when I got the trans for the swap from auto the harnesses plugs were all broke and would hardly stay on the sensors, as well as a good chunk of the wires being burnt. So I just ditched it when I did the v8 swap
I'm having the same issue currently with my terminator x install. So your telling me you just connect the white/pink to the blue/red wire and that's all?
 
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95sniper5.0

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For your ignition switch to work yes. If you no longer have your ecm and all of its wiring.
 

Dparry

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For your ignition switch to work yes. If you no longer have your ecm and all of its wiring.
It looks like both of those wires are present in the kick panel so I could just jump them there? Any chance you can post a pic of your fix? I really appreciate your response!
 
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95sniper5.0

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No problem. Ill get you a picture this afternoon, itll also refresh me more on what i had to do.
 

Addermk2

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Your the best! I appreciate that!
Jumping the wires in the kick panel will NOT get you the result you are looking for.

Your issue is in the fact that you have removed the transmission harness, and the start circuit runs through it (even on a manual trans car).

You'll need to pull the wires from the trans harness plug in the engine bay and connect two wires. Otherwise, run a lead from the jumper in the kick panel, out to the underhood relay panel and bypass all that other wiring.
 

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Jumping the wires in the kick panel will NOT get you the result you are looking for.

Your issue is in the fact that you have removed the transmission harness, and the start circuit runs through it (even on a manual trans car).

You'll need to pull the wires from the trans harness plug in the engine bay and connect two wires. Otherwise, run a lead from the jumper in the kick panel, out to the underhood relay panel and bypass all that other wiring.
What am I running the lead to in the fuse box exactly? The starter relay?
 
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95sniper5.0

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Ok i got home to check it. I no longer have the ecm harness or trans harness so what i did was cut out the section of the harness that runs up to the passenger fender well with a black plug on it plug it back in. Ran it back through the firewall and spliced the white/blue wire back together. That completed the start circuit for me. No need to go to the fuse box for anything. Just basically piece your harness back together using only the necessary wires being the white/blue one
 

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Dparry

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Ok i got home to check it. I no longer have the ecm harness or trans harness so what i did was cut out the section of the harness that runs up to the passenger fender well with a black plug on it plug it back in. Ran it back through the firewall and spliced the white/blue wire back together. That completed the start circuit for me. No need to go to the fuse box for anything. Just basically piece your harness back together using only the necessary wires being the white/blue one
Thanks a ton! I will be doing this soon and will let you know how it goes!
 

LEGALLYFAST

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Sorry if this post is off your topic. Curious to how much different you have your wiring from stock. Isn't it plug and play? How much have you modified? I say this because Ford doesn't have just a door and window wiring by itself. Sometimes they sneek other require wires in the mix. If your car is dissected a lot, you might want to purchase a power probe and sit down with a pad of paper and the schematics and figure stuff out. It is a very tedious process, but you will learn a lot about your wiring.

These safety networks will not allow your car to start if the signals are not present. The ignition network is one part, going from the switch to the starter relay. The nuetral safety network can go all over, depending on it is a stick or auto. If you are building a dragcar, this all needs to work or you won't pass tech.
 

white95

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Sorry if this post is off your topic. Curious to how much different you have your wiring from stock. Isn't it plug and play? How much have you modified? I say this because Ford doesn't have just a door and window wiring by itself. Sometimes they sneek other require wires in the mix. If your car is dissected a lot, you might want to purchase a power probe and sit down with a pad of paper and the schematics and figure stuff out. It is a very tedious process, but you will learn a lot about your wiring.

These safety networks will not allow your car to start if the signals are not present. The ignition network is one part, going from the switch to the starter relay. The nuetral safety network can go all over, depending on it is a stick or auto. If you are building a dragcar, this all needs to work or you won't pass tech.

That’s a good thing to consider. I will confidently say all of the subsystems will work but I’m not sure about the airbags because I deleted mine.
 

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OK, so looking at the schematics, which are sometimes unclear, and then looking at the wires. A problem, but not might be yours, could be like power in A, power out B, but the module is missing, so it won't work. I don't think this is your issue.

So you get just crank, no start? Do you have spark? I used Holley Sniper and it worked one way (no ignition module), but not when I added the module. And I would guess you have fuel. That circuit on a fox, goes everywhere and changes colors 3 times I believe.

Was this alway an auto car, or a conversion car?
 
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95sniper5.0

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If you are curious about my car It started out as a 3.8 auto car, while it still being the 3.8 it got manual swapped. Then it got swapped to a 5.0 with the following wiring gone. engine harness (I have autometer gauges so no concern of there wires), CCRM wiring, trans harness, ecm and its harness...Dash harness and fuse box left alone and under hood fuse box left alone. With taking all of that out the problem was turning the key and getting nothing not a no spark issue thats where the white/blue wire come into play. Everything else worked as is with lights,doors,windows with the exception of the 1 black? Wire white95 pointed out to me which is made the passenger front turn signal not work. Fuel pump for me is ran off of the holley sniper blue wire i wired it to the inertia switch in the trunk. Ignition for me is a msd 6a box with hyperspark distributor.
 
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I cannot speak to the airbags though as i dont have the factory instrument panel to see the light havent check power or anything like that the wiring is still there for them
 

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