Hood release & alignment

[ttocs]

Would I benefit going to a HID lighting system?

they are brighter but unless you do an expensive retrofit you are that guy whose lights are just to damn bright on low beam and you know if you flash the bright lights at him that you will really be blind.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Would I benefit going to a HID lighting system?

Not really. It won't be that much better, and you'll be glaring at all oncoming drivers.

 

[Michael Soldan]

Lubes up rubber exhaust hangers just fine. Without it, the rubber would've been mangled up and destroyed long ago. I agree that it doesn't last long though.

I use spray silicon to lube rubber parts , window channels etc , it quiets everything down and the windows slide up and down smoothly.

 

[cobrajeff96]

That's also a great choice. Especially in the case of weatherstripping where you want the lube to cling around a bit longer.

 

[weendoggy]

I use spray silicon to lube rubber parts , window channels etc , it quiets everything down and the windows slide up and down smoothly.

No offense, but that has soooo many ways to go wrong on this forum.

 

[shovel]

Lubes up rubber exhaust hangers just fine. Without it, the rubber would've been mangled up and destroyed long ago. I agree that it doesn't last long though.

I use liquid hand soap for a lot of these tasks. Essentially no possibility of degrading the material and in the case of anything rubber on the aspiration side of the engine, no silicones that can degrade (jacket) the oxygen sensors or catalysts.

Would I benefit going to a HID lighting system?

No, OEM projectors with HID were a good option before LED became viable but unless you're using a projector housing the whole HID capsule emits light so a reflector assembly built for a point source (filament) will just turn into a glare factory with a HID retrofit. Your own distance vision will be degraded by rayleigh scattering and any dust or vapor in the air, and oncoming drivers will find you a most unsociable individual.

It's disappointing that nobody is making ~4000k-4500k headlight LEDs which more closely match actual surface daylight temps, seems everything is either 6000k which disappears on wet/dark surfaces (deer in the rain, log/rock in the road..) or selective yellow which is annoying and also doesn't give you much detail back from things which don't have a high contrast to each other (coyote in the desert for example) . I can buy 4500k LEDs for my household lighting... just not for headlights. Bleh.

 

[cobrajeff96]

I've been rocking D2S 5.0 and soon to be MLED 2.0, output is great I must say. The retrofit is the best way to go IMO.

 

[Daryl]

I use liquid hand soap for a lot of these tasks. Essentially no possibility of degrading the material and in the case of anything rubber on the aspiration side of the engine, no silicones that can degrade (jacket) the oxygen sensors or catalysts.



No, OEM projectors with HID were a good option before LED became viable but unless you're using a projector housing the whole HID capsule emits light so a reflector assembly built for a point source (filament) will just turn into a glare factory with a HID retrofit. Your own distance vision will be degraded by rayleigh scattering and any dust or vapor in the air, and oncoming drivers will find you a most unsociable individual.

It's disappointing that nobody is making ~4000k-4500k headlight LEDs which more closely match actual surface daylight temps, seems everything is either 6000k which disappears on wet/dark surfaces (deer in the rain, log/rock in the road..) or selective yellow which is annoying and also doesn't give you much detail back from things which don't have a high contrast to each other (coyote in the desert for example) . I can buy 4500k LEDs for my household lighting... just not for headlights. Bleh.

So maybe LED’s instead of the stock Halogens?

 

[shovel]

So maybe LED’s instead of the stock Halogens?

Sure, the advice I'd give there is try to find a fanless set if you can (the fan makes a little noise and I can't imagine they will last in the real world) and ensure it's got a shroud or structure to cut-off a portion of the low beam. Cheapies don't seem to have that. Here's a picture of what I mean:



And if you find a set that's fanless, shrounded AND 4500k color temp let me know about it 'cause I want a set meeting all of those too!

I put a set of Hikari bulbs in my 94 that I'm not super happy with (good pattern, less than ideal color temp) so when a good replacement exists I'll switch them. I ended up using halogens in my 96 since I don't want to buy another set of compromise LEDs.

 

[Daryl]

Getting more involved than I want, so I’ll stick with the Halogens!
I did pull each fog light connector and both look great. Next, I’ll disassemble the center console and check the fog light switch. It remained lit no matter how I toggled it, so I’m curious to see if I get any clues there.

 

[cobrajeff96]

I think you should give the Mormimoto 2Stroke LEDs a look over at theretrofitsource.com because if you want LEDs it's probably your only best option apart from doing a full projector retrofit. I have been using the 2Stroke LEDs (fan cooled) in my motorcycle for about 3 straight years and the light in a moto is always on. You can't hear the fan, either.