Hoping for 11's. Will spray be enough?

duh09

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I know its your DD, but shedding weight helps time. Rear seat delete, ditching the spare on race day, hell, pull the passenger seat out for racing. Every bit helps.
 
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Kris

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What spare tire? Lol.
Meh, I like my full interior car.

Spray is only expensive if you go through bottles weekly imo.
 

BOS-94-003

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I know you have your mind set on this but have you considered, this being your daily driver, beefing up the drivetrain/suspension over time before spraying. If you dont have time to change control arms I dont see you having time to swap trannys either.
 
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Kris

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Trans is stock, suspension wise I just have Strange 10 ways in the rear, and Eibach Drag Launch springs on all 4 corners.

A tip I just got from a pretty great guy who's been into Mustangs; He told me to leave the upper front control arm alone, and weld a plate onto the lower control arm to stiffin it up. He said this will be plenty enough and I won't need to upgrade till the car makes gobs of power and torque..

The car would be luck to make 250WHP without spray right now if I were to make a guess.
 

BLOWN 95GT

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As far as the transmission goes My old 95gt had a stock t5 I owned it for 3-1/2 years just sold it about 7 months ago. In those 3-1/2 years it was my daily driver 40 mile trip to and from work every day. It went through a kenne bell 2.2 blowzilla at 10psi. 400rwhp and 420ftlbs. for about a year, then swapped to a NOS 150hp dry shot made 430hp and 487ftlbs, I raped it almost every day. I did upgrade the clutch but it was still shifting good went I watched the tail lights disappear in the distance. But to help your short time I would install some lakewood 90-10 front struts, your stock front struts are not shifting your weight to the rear tires. Oh If you are going to nitrous and you say you are only going to use it at the track, GOOD LUCK that shits like crack you cant get enough, and go ahead and start with the 150 shot you are only going to end up there anyway!
 

94Snake

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yeah go ahead and jump right to 150...........you'll replace your motor before your transmission. if you don't know what your doing you'll pop your motor. nobody on here is going to read your plugs for you to tell you what your engine is doing and having similar combos does not mean it'll work the same.

Use common sense when you have a nitrous system, take the dam bottle out when not going to the track.
 

BLOWN 95GT

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94Snake said:
yeah go ahead and jump right to 150...........you'll replace your motor before your transmission. if you don't know what your doing you'll pop your motor. nobody on here is going to read your plugs for you to tell you what your engine is doing and having similar combos does not mean it'll work the same.

Use common sense when you have a nitrous system, take the dam bottle out when not going to the track.
I did not mean just throw on the kit and stomp the happy pedal, Anything you do as far as power adder should be tuned before you take it out and beat on it but if you have the right nitrous pill, pressure, and enough fuel and timing you should have no problem with the 150 shot just take it to the dyno first.
 

LAFENATU

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94Snake said:
Use common sense when you have a nitrous system, take the dam bottle out when not going to the track.

Why?? lol
 

94Snake

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I did not mean just throw on the kit and stomp the happy pedal, Anything you do as far as power adder should be tuned before you take it out and beat on it but if you have the right nitrous pill, pressure, and enough fuel and timing you should have no problem with the 150 shot just take it to the dyno first.
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+1


i'll go with that, once i got my weak dry shot tuned i never went with smaller jets. but i worked up to it from 75, and i survived a nasty backfire at the strip one day.
 

BLOWN 95GT

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Mine never had any backfire issues but I did have to take it to the dyno a few times to get my fuel straight. I had a 255lph in tank pump but that was not enough I had to upgrade my nos kit to the stage 2 with the big in line fuel pump to get it right but after that it was a blast to drive.
 

94Snake

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mine was just a bolt on 302 at the time and i didn't have my plugs gapped right. the second i launched my friends said the saw flames shoot out of the dumps and then the car died. i thought i blew it up but it just backfired so hard that the fuel circuit breaker in the trunk kicked. so my car basically thought i was in a collision :headbang:
 
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Kris

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I plan on buying a wideband and afpr. I also know about pulling plugs and checking them. Yea I may as well jump to the 150 shot. Ill prolly get Strange front shocks. I love my rears.

How much better would it be if I bought a plate and used that rather than the fogger? Which plate would I need to get?
 

Inspector13

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I kinda skimmed all this but why are you going from a 26" tire to a 28" tire?? I've seen guys gain .3 on their ET switching from 26's to 28's in the 1/4 while running 4:10's. If your goal is an ET then you may wanna keep the 26's otherwise you'll probably have to also pick up an extra .3 to over come the tire size.


Also the stock bottom end will take a 150 shot easily but it will need a good tune. If I had to put money on it I'd say you might hit high 11's/low 12's w/ a 150 shot. My '94 ran a 12.2 with a 100 shot, bolt-ons, TFS H/C/I package, Eibach lowering springs, & 3:73 gears rolling out the hole and not spraying until after shifting into 2ed gear. Good luck.
 
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Kris

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28s will give me more mph in the big end. It'll take more power to turn the taller tire in order to get a decent 60ft. This is where the spray should help. I'm going to spray in 1st gear right after the launch. My best 60ft was a terrible 1.8... my car with a 26" tire was screaming at 5800rpm going through the traps, and falling on its face. With a 28 I can keep the rpm's around 5500 where power is about to drop off at the finish.
 

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