how can I move this?

[ttocs]

The harness for this temp sender is JUST in the way of the big mamo-jamo alternator I am installing. I am first going to try heating up the pipe to bend it a little more to see if I can get it out of the way, but if that fails who has modified or changed this? This is the coolant pipe that come from the back of the motor to the heater core and comes up all the way next to the alt obviously. Can I change this, move the sender and not cause any problems?

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Somebody else might chime in on this also but didn't Steve_Oh do something like what he's talking about on his?

 

[Dan95-5.0]

I deleted it completely.

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[ttocs]

so what does it do?

 

[sinister5oh]

this temp sender just makes sure that the heater core is getting warm enough/not getting too warm. I'm not sure if removing it would set any codes or cause any problems internally, but first I would try what you first suggested..try heating it up and see if you can bend it out of the way

 

[ttocs]

I am going to try that today my only fear is that it will not bend evenly and end up with a kink or restriction in the flow but I really do not need much more then 5-10 degrees I think. If that doesn't work I am going to try and convert it to -AN fittings and see about adding a block that would allow for that sender to go in and then just run it out the back like the pipe does. If that is the case does anyone know the thread pitch on this thing? I happen to have a 5/8"-18 tap and its close but look different, maybe npt?

 

[ttocs]

my dad had the idea to fill the pipe with sand to help it keep its shape. So we filled it up, got it cherry red and leaned on it a little bit. Hopefully it was enough to make a difference as I didn't need much as it was just the edge of the wire harness that plugged into it that was in the way. Now though I have discovered I need to clearance a little bit of the valve cover so that it will miss the big ass alt. I guess I mocked this all up with my old/thinner stamped valve covers that have just about a 1/4" more space....

 

[ranger56528]

1/2" pipe and sender is 3/8 pipe I believe.

 

[ranger56528]

On my old motor I used a brass t and used heater hose rather then the pipe,it looks bulky but it works,there is a post where the guy cut up two fittings and welded them together and it looked real nice but can't remember witch forum/site it was. On my new motor I'm using a pipe from a 93 5.0 to move the sender,I'll post a pic in a sec.

 

[ranger56528]

Here is the 93 heater pipe on my new motor with the sender pointed upand then I am going to cut the long pipe at the bend and put a small flare for the hose to pump and FYI that's a old sender that came with the pipe and I will be putting a new one on.

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[ranger56528]

Forgot to add that I'm going to cut and cap off that small water nipple.


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[ttocs]

not sure it would fit under my cobra intake facing straight up but its something to consider.

 

[ranger56528]

The pic is kinda deceiving,you can find the 91-93 pipe fairly cheep and see if it will work,if not sell it..I will be using my Typhoon upper and lower intake on the new motor. If your not going to worry about heat in the car just use a 1/2 to 3/8 pipe bushing and cap off the heater core and water pump outlet,that's my plan B if I go with my electric water pump,it's not like I will be driving the 95 in cold weather.

 

[ranger56528]

Here is the 1/2x3/8 pipe bushing with sensor in it.

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[ranger56528]

You can also use that bushing with a t fitting if you want to run a hose to heater core,just have to run a hose back to water pump,I did a mock up of that way also,it works if you don't mind using heater hose but the sender will sit higher up.


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