How Hot is Too Hot - Engine Temp?

Ballistic

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So how hot is too hot for our SN95s? Its getting pretty hot and i like to use my A/C it blows real nice and cold :)

I had ford flush it while i had them doing the oil change last year, ill have them double check some stuff when i get a oil change next. But i think last time they said the sensor was still fine..

Just want to see if ill need to plan for a new aluminum radiator and fan or what..

These were from today, it got up to like 220 before i kicked the A/C off
Most of the time it hangs around 198-204..

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Ferocious

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Anything over 230 constantly and i'd be worried.


Mine is usually running at around 210-220.
 

DeepList

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The stock thermostat opens around 195 degrees +/-. 210 degrees is about ideal. Anything less than 180-ish degrees is too cold and anything above 230-ish is too hot.
 

96blak54

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If she boils, head gaskets will weep. The TTY bolts dont like the high heat, so keep her cool!
 

talltim

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I wouldnt worry to much. Factory has a 210 thermostat. Taxi cabs in NYC drive for over 300,000 miles with regular old changes; idling in traffic all day long
 

Ballistic

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Thanks guys, that's where it hit 220ish when i was downtown not getting much airflow stopping at each light doing like 25.
 

Burninriverdiver

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That's about what mine ran at before I put in my 180* thermostat. Now it hangs around 190 and the needle sits a little below half way on the dashboard
 

RichV

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Fan still turns on at 210-220, I've run races in 230-240, but not ideal. Boiling point is 212, so make sure your cap is working well.
 

Twista

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My car doesn't like the ac either. I got up to 250 with mine. With ac off she runs perfectly cool. Ac on in hot weather she runs way to hot.

Ive already done everything short of new head gaskets or ac condenser. So Instead I brought a dd beater and use that on hot days lol
 

ttocs

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That's about what mine ran at before I put in my 180* thermostat. Now it hangs around 190 and the needle sits a little below half way on the dashboard


The stock gauge is dumbed down by the computer to keep people from flipping out. I have seen my car on the dyno getting hot enough that the computer was pulling timing to try and cool it and the needle never showed any movement.
 

Vegasfilter

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I have not experienced any overheating issues and I use my ac regularly with my boys in the car. Then again the hottest its been here is about 83-85 degrees. The fan is running constantly though. Was thinking about putting a new t-stat just to make sure it is working properly. Basically, if it can be replaced within an hour, and not a ton of labor or overly expensive, I will be replacing it to make this car 100% again.
 

JerZeyStangz

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I had this problem on/off for the last 5+ years and finally figured out why my car never could stabilize the temp. When I first bought the car the needle never moved and it ran quite well. The manifold cracked and got replaced, the needle was never the same ever again. At the time when I wasn't mechanically inclined, the mechanic did a pressure test on my radiator and it leaked so that got replaced. The needle moved back and forth and I had no idea why. Just last month after almost 11 years of ownership I decided to replace the radiator cap since it looked original. Guess what my needle barely moves now!!!! I couldn't believe it. I did some research and found out that if the radiator cap is failing it will raise the boiling point of the coolant making your temps way hotter than it should be. I should of replaced years ago but finally did it. The needle barely moves in traffic and the car doesn't feel like V6 on hot summer days. I can't believe I tolerated living with that headache for so long because after about 30 mins worth of driving I could feel the car pull timing and feel much slower. My next course of action is to run some kind of flush to clean out all the build up in the passages of the block to get better cooling efficiency.
 

DeepList

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That's about what mine ran at before I put in my 180* thermostat.

There's zero benefit to running a thermostat with a lower temp threshold unless you change when your fan comes on. If you're sitting in stop-and-go traffic, or just idling, the thermostat will open at 180. Coolant will be exchanged from the radiator to the engine, but without the fan on, nothing is cooling what's in the radiator at that point.
 

Ballistic

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I had this problem on/off for the last 5+ years and finally figured out why my car never could stabilize the temp. When I first bought the car the needle never moved and it ran quite well. The manifold cracked and got replaced, the needle was never the same ever again. At the time when I wasn't mechanically inclined, the mechanic did a pressure test on my radiator and it leaked so that got replaced. The needle moved back and forth and I had no idea why. Just last month after almost 11 years of ownership I decided to replace the radiator cap since it looked original. Guess what my needle barely moves now!!!! I couldn't believe it. I did some research and found out that if the radiator cap is failing it will raise the boiling point of the coolant making your temps way hotter than it should be. I should of replaced years ago but finally did it. The needle barely moves in traffic and the car doesn't feel like V6 on hot summer days. I can't believe I tolerated living with that headache for so long because after about 30 mins worth of driving I could feel the car pull timing and feel much slower. My next course of action is to run some kind of flush to clean out all the build up in the passages of the block to get better cooling efficiency.

I did a little reading into the cap after what RichV said, and now you bring it up, i think ill have my buddy at ford order me one in for 10 or 20 bucks its worth a shot..
 

Burninriverdiver

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There's zero benefit to running a thermostat with a lower temp threshold unless you change when your fan comes on. If you're sitting in stop-and-go traffic, or just idling, the thermostat will open at 180. Coolant will be exchanged from the radiator to the engine, but without the fan on, nothing is cooling what's in the radiator at that point.

In that case I have to contribute the results to BAMA. They asked what thermostat I had in the car for the tune they sent. It must have been the results of the tune then. I put the parts in over winter and got a canned tune before driving with the new thermostat. Thanks for the info Deeplist
 

JerZeyStangz

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I did a little reading into the cap after what RichV said, and now you bring it up, i think ill have my buddy at ford order me one in for 10 or 20 bucks its worth a shot..

Do a check list.

Check Radiator Cap
Check Thermostat
Check Radiator
Check low/high speed fans
Check coolant ratio 50/50

If all of those are in order and your system is free of contaminates, the needle should barely move. These cars like to stay 190-210 range.
 

Burninriverdiver

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Do a check list.

Check Radiator Cap
Check Thermostat
Check Radiator
Check low/high speed fans
Check coolant ratio 50/50

If all of those are in order and your system is free of contaminates, the needle should barely move. These cars like to stay 190-210 range.

Good advice and it reminds me... When I bought my car, the low fan speed didn't work because the harness was slightly melted and wires were exposed. I replaced the harness with another from a junk yard and both the high and low speeds ended up working again normally. If the wires are messed up on yours, I'd suggest a junkyard or LMR sells this harness

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/WPT362/94-97-Ford-Mustang-Cooling-Fan-Repair-Wiring-Harness

it's a relatively common problem from what I've read
 

Ineedav8

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Im having the same problem except my low speed fan doesnt kick on at all i think it crapped out I know of the mark 8 fans and contour fans help but has anyone tried a 07 ford focus fan?
 

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