How Hot is Too Hot - Engine Temp?

Ballistic

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
427
Reaction score
4
Location
Oregon
So how hot is too hot for our SN95s? Its getting pretty hot and i like to use my A/C it blows real nice and cold :)

I had ford flush it while i had them doing the oil change last year, ill have them double check some stuff when i get a oil change next. But i think last time they said the sensor was still fine..

Just want to see if ill need to plan for a new aluminum radiator and fan or what..

These were from today, it got up to like 220 before i kicked the A/C off
Most of the time it hangs around 198-204..

vErCiWy.png

3rC7R7Y.png
 

Ferocious

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
12,255
Reaction score
600
Location
San Diego
Anything over 230 constantly and i'd be worried.


Mine is usually running at around 210-220.
 

DeepList

Administrator
Admin
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
9,695
Reaction score
346
Location
Auburn, IN
The stock thermostat opens around 195 degrees +/-. 210 degrees is about ideal. Anything less than 180-ish degrees is too cold and anything above 230-ish is too hot.
 

96blak54

Moderator
Staff
Joined
Feb 21, 2011
Messages
9,977
Reaction score
2,808
Location
In the shop
If she boils, head gaskets will weep. The TTY bolts dont like the high heat, so keep her cool!
 

talltim

New Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2015
Messages
50
Reaction score
0
I wouldnt worry to much. Factory has a 210 thermostat. Taxi cabs in NYC drive for over 300,000 miles with regular old changes; idling in traffic all day long
 
OP
OP
Ballistic

Ballistic

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
427
Reaction score
4
Location
Oregon
Thanks guys, that's where it hit 220ish when i was downtown not getting much airflow stopping at each light doing like 25.
 

Burninriverdiver

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
2,770
Reaction score
234
That's about what mine ran at before I put in my 180* thermostat. Now it hangs around 190 and the needle sits a little below half way on the dashboard
 

RichV

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
4,230
Reaction score
251
Location
CO
Fan still turns on at 210-220, I've run races in 230-240, but not ideal. Boiling point is 212, so make sure your cap is working well.
 

Twista

Legend
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
6,042
Reaction score
77
My car doesn't like the ac either. I got up to 250 with mine. With ac off she runs perfectly cool. Ac on in hot weather she runs way to hot.

Ive already done everything short of new head gaskets or ac condenser. So Instead I brought a dd beater and use that on hot days lol
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,387
Reaction score
5,557
Location
Evansville Indiana
That's about what mine ran at before I put in my 180* thermostat. Now it hangs around 190 and the needle sits a little below half way on the dashboard


The stock gauge is dumbed down by the computer to keep people from flipping out. I have seen my car on the dyno getting hot enough that the computer was pulling timing to try and cool it and the needle never showed any movement.
 

Vegasfilter

Member
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
165
Reaction score
1
Location
Denver
I have not experienced any overheating issues and I use my ac regularly with my boys in the car. Then again the hottest its been here is about 83-85 degrees. The fan is running constantly though. Was thinking about putting a new t-stat just to make sure it is working properly. Basically, if it can be replaced within an hour, and not a ton of labor or overly expensive, I will be replacing it to make this car 100% again.
 

JerZeyStangz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
3,616
Reaction score
42
Location
Northern NJ
I had this problem on/off for the last 5+ years and finally figured out why my car never could stabilize the temp. When I first bought the car the needle never moved and it ran quite well. The manifold cracked and got replaced, the needle was never the same ever again. At the time when I wasn't mechanically inclined, the mechanic did a pressure test on my radiator and it leaked so that got replaced. The needle moved back and forth and I had no idea why. Just last month after almost 11 years of ownership I decided to replace the radiator cap since it looked original. Guess what my needle barely moves now!!!! I couldn't believe it. I did some research and found out that if the radiator cap is failing it will raise the boiling point of the coolant making your temps way hotter than it should be. I should of replaced years ago but finally did it. The needle barely moves in traffic and the car doesn't feel like V6 on hot summer days. I can't believe I tolerated living with that headache for so long because after about 30 mins worth of driving I could feel the car pull timing and feel much slower. My next course of action is to run some kind of flush to clean out all the build up in the passages of the block to get better cooling efficiency.
 

DeepList

Administrator
Admin
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
9,695
Reaction score
346
Location
Auburn, IN
That's about what mine ran at before I put in my 180* thermostat.

There's zero benefit to running a thermostat with a lower temp threshold unless you change when your fan comes on. If you're sitting in stop-and-go traffic, or just idling, the thermostat will open at 180. Coolant will be exchanged from the radiator to the engine, but without the fan on, nothing is cooling what's in the radiator at that point.
 
OP
OP
Ballistic

Ballistic

Active Member
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
427
Reaction score
4
Location
Oregon
I had this problem on/off for the last 5+ years and finally figured out why my car never could stabilize the temp. When I first bought the car the needle never moved and it ran quite well. The manifold cracked and got replaced, the needle was never the same ever again. At the time when I wasn't mechanically inclined, the mechanic did a pressure test on my radiator and it leaked so that got replaced. The needle moved back and forth and I had no idea why. Just last month after almost 11 years of ownership I decided to replace the radiator cap since it looked original. Guess what my needle barely moves now!!!! I couldn't believe it. I did some research and found out that if the radiator cap is failing it will raise the boiling point of the coolant making your temps way hotter than it should be. I should of replaced years ago but finally did it. The needle barely moves in traffic and the car doesn't feel like V6 on hot summer days. I can't believe I tolerated living with that headache for so long because after about 30 mins worth of driving I could feel the car pull timing and feel much slower. My next course of action is to run some kind of flush to clean out all the build up in the passages of the block to get better cooling efficiency.

I did a little reading into the cap after what RichV said, and now you bring it up, i think ill have my buddy at ford order me one in for 10 or 20 bucks its worth a shot..
 

Burninriverdiver

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
2,770
Reaction score
234
There's zero benefit to running a thermostat with a lower temp threshold unless you change when your fan comes on. If you're sitting in stop-and-go traffic, or just idling, the thermostat will open at 180. Coolant will be exchanged from the radiator to the engine, but without the fan on, nothing is cooling what's in the radiator at that point.

In that case I have to contribute the results to BAMA. They asked what thermostat I had in the car for the tune they sent. It must have been the results of the tune then. I put the parts in over winter and got a canned tune before driving with the new thermostat. Thanks for the info Deeplist
 

JerZeyStangz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
3,616
Reaction score
42
Location
Northern NJ
I did a little reading into the cap after what RichV said, and now you bring it up, i think ill have my buddy at ford order me one in for 10 or 20 bucks its worth a shot..

Do a check list.

Check Radiator Cap
Check Thermostat
Check Radiator
Check low/high speed fans
Check coolant ratio 50/50

If all of those are in order and your system is free of contaminates, the needle should barely move. These cars like to stay 190-210 range.
 

Burninriverdiver

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
2,770
Reaction score
234
Do a check list.

Check Radiator Cap
Check Thermostat
Check Radiator
Check low/high speed fans
Check coolant ratio 50/50

If all of those are in order and your system is free of contaminates, the needle should barely move. These cars like to stay 190-210 range.

Good advice and it reminds me... When I bought my car, the low fan speed didn't work because the harness was slightly melted and wires were exposed. I replaced the harness with another from a junk yard and both the high and low speeds ended up working again normally. If the wires are messed up on yours, I'd suggest a junkyard or LMR sells this harness

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/WPT362/94-97-Ford-Mustang-Cooling-Fan-Repair-Wiring-Harness

it's a relatively common problem from what I've read
 

Ineedav8

Active Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
647
Reaction score
1
Location
South Florida
Im having the same problem except my low speed fan doesnt kick on at all i think it crapped out I know of the mark 8 fans and contour fans help but has anyone tried a 07 ford focus fan?
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,437
Messages
1,502,128
Members
14,918
Latest member
Diabolic2010

Members online

Top