How much am i pushing and how much more can i squeeze off what i have

gunnybuck

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I just recently got a beautiful mustang gt from a trade that the first buyer put a lot of work into and i’m wondering how much hp i’m pushing and how much more i can squeeze out with killing my bank so far it has
3.55 gears
K&n air filter
Asp pulleys
Chris Johnson chip 2% lean on WOT
Synthetics
Complete tune up 14° timing
180° thermostat
Maganaflow 2 1/4 in. Mufflers
Mac cold air intake kit
Pro m 75mm air meter
Crane 1.7 roller rockers
Auto specialties under drive pully kit
”Performance” Ignition
And has full exaust work with what’s on the papers
And some stuff i’m missing But any help would be great
 

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ttocs

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you have a good start to the build opening up the intake/exhaust and the RR's and gears. If you do more time in traffic/idleing I would say to take the underdrive pullies off. THey are good for racecars/driving if they are up in the rpms but can cause problems when not going fast.
 

gunnybuck

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you have a good start to the build opening up the intake/exhaust and the RR's and gears. If you do more time in traffic/idleing I would say to take the underdrive pullies off. THey are good for racecars/driving if they are up in the rpms but can cause problems when not going fast.
What else would you suggest i’m thinking at looking at getting bigger injectors do you have any idea where i should start with them?
 

Michael Plummer

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I just recently got a beautiful mustang gt from a trade that the first buyer put a lot of work into and i’m wondering how much hp i’m pushing and how much more i can squeeze out with killing my bank so far it has
3.55 gears
K&n air filter
Asp pulleys
Chris Johnson chip 2% lean on WOT
Synthetics
Complete tune up 14° timing
180° thermostat
Maganaflow 2 1/4 in. Mufflers
Mac cold air intake kit
Pro m 75mm air meter
Crane 1.7 roller rockers
Auto specialties under drive pully kit
”Performance” Ignition
And has full exaust work with what’s on the papers
And some stuff i’m missing But any help would be great
Congrats on the new to you Mustang. To answer your question "how much hp I'm pushing"? Let's look at what components actually add HP.

3.55 gears: On a dyno, lower rear gears (3.55) will reduce your rwhp number vs. a set of 2.73 or 3.08 rear end gears. I could expand on this more if need be.

K&N Air Filter: Aftermarket companies like K&N Air Filters have done a good job of offering replacement air filters over a stock paper element. I'm going to assume you have no way of seeing this but you need to see if your mass air meter is moving more air vs. the stk. air filter element. If it does then there is an increase in load which will equate to more HP.

ASP Pulleys: Will yield a small modest increase in rear-wheel power (7 to 12 rwhp) by reducing the amount of power needed to drive those engine accessories.

Chris Johnson Chip: You need four things to make an engine run......Air, Fuel, Spark, and Compression. The only two variables a Tuner can control are spark (timing) and fuel (A/F ratio). The majority of tuners for streetcars are very conservative when it comes to adding timing and leaning them out.

14 degrees of timing: This is where the initial timing is set to and it has no bearing on actual total timing because that information would be in the chip.

180 degrees F thermostat: Going to keep this real simple because I can go off in different directions here. A low-temperature thermostat by itself does not make power.

Magnaflow mufflers: At your power level, they are not adding any HP but rather you'll hear an increase in decibel or noise.

MAC Cold Air Intake: If your stk. intake tract is replacing a restrictive stock intake with components that are designed to handle a much larger volume of air then yes it could increase power but I don't see that in your setup because you still have the stock throttle body and intake manifold.

Pro-M 75mm air meter: You haven't modified your engine to increase airflow so right now you're not adding any HP to your existing setup.

1.7 roller rockers: OEM stk. rocker arms are stamped steel pedestal rockers. You'd be gaining some HP just by lessening internal friction since you'd be going to a full roller-bearing rocker arm. Plus, the added lift and marginal extra duration will help. How much, not much at all.

Performance Ignition: Only will help if your stk. ignition has problems firing off your mixture but no HP increase.

AODE: Not sure if this is the stock AODE or not but I'm going to assume that it is. Your transmission takes a lot of HP to move. Typically AODE transmission don't show high dyno numbers and is not needed for this discussion.

I'm a lousy guesser so it would be best to take the car to a reputable place (ask around) that has a rear-wheel dyno.

THINGS TO DO FOR MORE POWER: Remember, Air Fuel, Spark, and Compression. Your budget has a lot to do with it but increasing airflow through your engine will help and the easiest way to do that is with a power adder like a turbo or supercharger.

Good luck with the car
Michael Plummer
 
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ttocs

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your not near the point of needing new injectors and you would need a tune to really do them right. What is the budget?
 

gunnybuck

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Congrats on the new to you Mustang. To answer your question "how much hp I'm pushing"? Let's look at what components actually add HP.

3.55 gears: On a dyno, lower rear gears (3.55) will reduce your rwhp number vs. a set of 2.73 or 3.08 rear end gears. I could expand on this more if need be.

K&N Air Filter: Aftermarket companies like K&N Air Filters have done a good job of offering replacement air filters over a stock paper element. I'm going to assume you have no way of seeing this but you need to see if your mass air meter is moving more air vs. the stk. air filter element. If it does then there is an increase in load which will equate to more HP.

ASP Pulleys: Will yield a small modest increase in rear-wheel power (7 to 12 rwhp) by reducing the amount of power needed to drive those engine accessories.

Chris Johnson Chip: You need four things to make an engine run......Air, Fuel, Spark, and Compression. The only two variables a Tuner can control are spark (timing) and fuel (A/F ratio). The majority of tuners for streetcars are very conservative when it comes to adding timing and leaning them out.

14 degrees of timing: This is where the initial timing is set to and it has no bearing on actual total timing because that information would be in the chip.

180 degrees F thermostat: Going to keep this real simple because I can go off in different directions here. A low-temperature thermostat by itself does not make power.

Magnaflow mufflers: At your power level, they are not adding any HP but rather you'll hear an increase in decibel or noise.

MAC Cold Air Intake: If your stk. intake tract is replacing a restrictive stock intake with components that are designed to handle a much larger volume of air then yes it could increase power but I don't see that in your setup because you still have the stock throttle body and intake manifold.

Pro-M 75mm air meter: You haven't modified your engine to increase airflow so right now you're not adding any HP to your existing setup.

1.7 roller rockers: OEM stk. rocker arms are stamped steel pedestal rockers. You'd be gaining some HP just by lessening internal friction since you'd be going to a full roller-bearing rocker arm. Plus, the added lift and marginal extra duration will help. How much, not much at all.

Performance Ignition: Only will help if your stk. ignition has problems firing off your mixture but no HP increase.

AODE: Not sure if this is the stock AODE or not but I'm going to assume that it is. Your transmission takes a lot of HP to move. Typically AODE transmission don't show high dyno numbers and is not needed for this discussion.

I'm a lousy guesser so it would be best to take the car to a reputable place (ask around) that has a rear-wheel dyno.

THINGS TO DO FOR MORE POWER: Remember, Air Fuel, Spark, and Compression. Your budget has a lot to do with it but increasing airflow through your engine will help and the easiest way to do that is with a power adder like a turbo or supercharger.

Good luck with the car
Michael Plummer
I was looking around on the forum and saw the gt40 head would be a good option because it’s still a 5.0 would that work for my application? and how much of what’s been put on the car already can stay on?
 

ttocs

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gt40 heads are a small performance boost but a great bang for the buck. You can save weight and gain a little more power with an aftermarket aluminum head like trickflow but your not in the same price range by any means. There should be no problem putting them on with what you have now. You might consider a cam at the same time since you are that deep but again its all about the budget question.
 

gunnybuck

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gt40 heads are a small performance boost but a great bang for the buck. You can save weight and gain a little more power with an aftermarket aluminum head like trickflow but your not in the same price range by any means. There should be no problem putting them on with what you have now. You might consider a cam at the same time since you are that deep but again its all about the budget question.
That’s where it gets hard is i can’t go deeper then 500 or the mrs will kill me Luckly at my local pullnsave they have afew old explorers that i can go look into and would my roller rockers be able to be transferred over too?
 
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Wmac

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Hit that local pic n pull and look for an explorer intake and possible heads. The explorer injectors flow somewhat better than the 19#ers that you have, heads would require new valve springs. Port the explorer lower intake yourself (gasket match)and pick up a throttle body adapter. Decent pick-up in power right there.

If your aode trans is stock, check out a "jmod" upgrade and add the biggest trans cooler you can buy.

And welcome to the addictive hobby.
 

TrickVert

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For a $500 budget, I'd install subframe connectors and check and replace worn shocks and/or suspension bushings, and consider lowering Springs (no more than 1.5" drop). I'd change all the fluids, replace the underhood fuel feed and return lines, and make sure the brakes are up to snuff. I'd also suggest finding a stock intake tract and filter to replace the CAI and K&N, because as MP mentioned, you're gaining no power there, and actually losing filtration efficiency.

Welcome to the hobby, and the last of the original 5.0's!
 

Road_Runna

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Stock timing at °14 degrees?
I read somewhere that stock is set at °10 degrees. Infact, after my T5 swap my timing idled perfect at °10 degrees with the T40MO computer. I tried going higher on timing but the car dint like it.
 

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