How Much Power can you get out of a NA 4.6 2v?

framda

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This is the main issue that I have with the Modular motors. You can dump a ton into them and still not have much. My NPI runs smooth, gets good gas mileage, and is very dependable, but I still want a 5.0 because they are cheap, reliable and strong as whore piss, but cheap to modify also.
 

MadStang

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This is the main issue that I have with the Modular motors. You can dump a ton into them and still not have much. My NPI runs smooth, gets good gas mileage, and is very dependable, but I still want a 5.0 because they are cheap, reliable and strong as whore piss, but cheap to modify also.

honestly, I probably should just leave my car be. I have plenty of power to break the tires loose in 2nd and 3rd, but, I'm an all or nothing kinda guy.... lmao
 

framda

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honestly, I probably should just leave my car be. I have plenty of power to break the tires loose in 2nd and 3rd, but, I'm an all or nothing kinda guy.... lmao

I am going to keep mine pretty much the way it is powertrain wise. I am going to put some subframe connectors, CC plates and springs on it, then paint it (in that order.) I have a daughter who wants it in a couple of years. When I give it to her I will get something with a 5.0 unless the 4.6 parts come down in price, yeah right?
 

Mustang Mark

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Why does everyone think the 5.0 is some kind of fucking God motor? Its no better than a 4.6. Hell a cammed. Ported head 4.6 puts down the same powered as a h/c/i 5.0 but costs less money. But everyone is like OMG I need a 5.0 because in the 80s a 14 second 5.0 was fast and everyone wanted one.
 

hottwheels04

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I would do trickflow heads on the 2 valve thats the only way to keep a 2 valve good n/a power it seems
 

hottwheels04

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Why does everyone think the 5.0 is some kind of fucking God motor? Its no better than a 4.6. Hell a cammed. Ported head 4.6 puts down the same powered as a h/c/i 5.0 but costs less money. But everyone is like OMG I need a 5.0 because in the 80s a 14 second 5.0 was fast and everyone wanted one.
yeah but you can do a stroker kit on that h/c/i 5.0 and make 350-450rwhp and half the price, a 4.6 2 valve can only be stoked out to as large as 5.0 and 5.1 liter and 5.4 liters and your talking still max out of 350-400rwhp and cost 2x the money and no torque and power down low like a 5.0 or stroker 5.0 pushrod motor and if you go 351 based stroker like a 393 w or 408 410 427 windsor stroker with big heads cam your talking a 500-600+hp n/a pushrod 5.0 based motor, even with a $12,000 4.6 2 valve motor h/c/i your talking 350-400rwhp


for example

built stroker 4.6 2 valve motor 5.1 /5.4 liters
trickflow heads cam,bullit intake etc
higher compression

400rwhp n/a motor high compression you need to run race gas and spin it to 7,000+rpm's and runs like shit bad street manners and need big stage3+ cams and cost prob $10,000-$15,0000


built stroker 351/393 windsor based motor
lower 10 to 5 compression pump gas friendley
.600+ lift medium size cam for a stroker
trickflow / afr 205-225cnc heads
spin it to 5,500-6,500 rpms
your talking 450-550+hp all day
and 400+torque easy and amazing street manners and torque down low

cost prob around $6,000-$8,000
 

framda

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Why does everyone think the 5.0 is some kind of fucking God motor? Its no better than a 4.6. Hell a cammed. Ported head 4.6 puts down the same powered as a h/c/i 5.0 but costs less money. But everyone is like OMG I need a 5.0 because in the 80s a 14 second 5.0 was fast and everyone wanted one.
I have worked on FEs, 385 and 335 family (Clevelands), and Windsors since the 70's. I now have a NPI 4.6. It may be hi tech, it may have 2 cams, it may rev higher but it is a pig in the stock form. This is the slowest V8 mustang that I have ever had. Don't get me wrong, I like it. The SN95's are a pretty good vehicle, better than the Fox bodies in my opinion. With all of that being said, the numbers speak for themselves, it takes too much money to get serious power out of a 4.6. If I had that kind of money well then who cares, but I don't. The 4.6 and 5.4 is in a lot of Mustangs, Crown Vics, trucks and Linc-Mercs too but nowhere near the number of Windsors out there. In my opinion the small block Ford is one of the best motors ever built. So yeah I think it is like a God of motors. More than 30 yrs of factory line use in all kinds of vehicles means something. If nothing else it means there is a shitload of good cheap parts. They have a lot of bang for the buck. I dont think the 4.6 is a bad motor, mine runs great, but I aint stupid enough to try and race anybody with it either. My 5.0 fox did high 14.s with only gears, I don't really want to know how slow my 98 is. I am not trying to force my opinion on you, but I do have a right to have it.
 

vermilion

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then get a pushrod based engine and quit bitching. its a hotrod game.

301 ci stroker 3.3k in short block, ported pi heads 850, cams and intake with high compression and makes plenty of torque. plenty of midrange, and plenty of have a cup of stfu. if you dont like them, pleaseeee go back in technology with a pushrod. my box stock 96 gt with a 50 shot did 13.9 and it drank oil like you do beer. im sorry this is getting old.
 

Mustang Mark

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Stock for stock 4.6 > 5.0 IMHO I have both right now and the 5.0 is getting sold as soon as the title comes in. Yeah certain parts are cheaper but when you have to spend $1500+ on a good set of heads vs porting stock pi's things add up. The only good thing to do with a 5.0 is Carb it and make it a screamer, it only has a 3" stroke after all. Naturally aspirated stroker variations are really the only upside to pushrod motors.
 

framda

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then get a pushrod based engine and quit bitching. its a hotrod game.

301 ci stroker 3.3k in short block, ported pi heads 850, cams and intake with high compression and makes plenty of torque. plenty of midrange, and plenty of have a cup of stfu. if you dont like them, pleaseeee go back in technology with a pushrod. my box stock 96 gt with a 50 shot did 13.9 and it drank oil like you do beer. im sorry this is getting old.

How much $$ for all that? I think if you will actually read my post, you will see that in the third line I said that I liked my 4.6 and gave it credit for it's strengths. I also said that I was going to keep my 4.6 as well as buy one with a 5.0.
 

framda

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Stock for stock 4.6 > 5.0 IMHO I have both right now and the 5.0 is getting sold as soon as the title comes in. Yeah certain parts are cheaper but when you have to spend $1500+ on a good set of heads vs porting stock pi's things add up. The only good thing to do with a 5.0 is Carb it and make it a screamer, it only has a 3" stroke after all. Naturally aspirated stroker variations are really the only upside to pushrod motors.

How much, Got pics?
 

Mustang Mark

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How much, Got pics?
my sister has first dibs on it. I have pics but I post from an android phone so I don't think I can upload them. Overall the car is beat and not worth driving to pa for lol
 

vermilion

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key factors for a modular NA:

a. zero decking the block to get the most static and dynamic compression. block prep, block prep and block prep.
b. lightest material(exspensive son) for a balanced rotating assembly at high RPMs.
c. intake manifold thats capable of "keeping up"..
d. TFS heads or MHS ported PI heads.
e. supporting mods IE: under drive pullies. utilize a more efficient crank underdrive pulley then most off the shelf brands. Piggy back pullies or a soft billet material isnt what you want. they burrow and elongate with time.
f. Cams.... better suited. not the normal off the shelf grind.
 

MadStang

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key factors for a modular NA:

a. zero decking the block to get the most static and dynamic compression. block prep, block prep and block prep.
b. lightest material(exspensive son) for a balanced rotating assembly at high RPMs.
c. intake manifold thats capable of "keeping up"..
d. TFS heads or MHS ported PI heads.
e. supporting mods IE: under drive pullies. utilize a more efficient crank underdrive pulley then most off the shelf brands. Piggy back pullies or a soft billet material isnt what you want. they burrow and elongate with time.
f. Cams.... better suited. not the normal off the shelf grind.

you just built my motor with words lmao.
 

vermilion

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instead of corn liquor for the less fortunate areas of the states, water/meth is a viable options to raise octane, better timing and less detonation.
 

twovalveterror

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key factors for a modular NA:

a. zero decking the block to get the most static and dynamic compression. block prep, block prep and block prep.
b. lightest material(exspensive son) for a balanced rotating assembly at high RPMs.
c. intake manifold thats capable of "keeping up"..
d. TFS heads or MHS ported PI heads.
e. supporting mods IE: under drive pullies. utilize a more efficient crank underdrive pulley then most off the shelf brands. Piggy back pullies or a soft billet material isnt what you want. they burrow and elongate with time.
f. Cams.... better suited. not the normal off the shelf grind.

I have a problem with decking the block of an NPI (assuming thats what you were talking about) would that not rob you of the very little PTV clearance you have to start out with? valve notching the pistons can only do so much.
 

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