HOW TO:Build a Stout Nitrous Kit on a Budget for Beginners

Discussion in 'Tech Articles, How-To's & Write Ups' started by 330CubeGt, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. 330CubeGt

    330CubeGt Well-Known Member

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    Let me just get this out of the way first, It's Called NITROUS not NOS!

    If your only wanting to run a 50hp, 75hp or 100hp Wet Shot on your car. Your stock FUEL PUMP and INJECTORS, DO NOT "NEED" to be replaced.
    There are plenty of guys out there running 150 Kits on stock Pumps and Injectors.With that said if you stay in the 50-100 HP Range you can safely use a wet nitrous kit with NO TUNE REQUIRED.
    Of course a tune is always a plus when adding any performance part to your car but its not a "Must Have" item.You might find alot of people that tell you other wise but the decision is ultimately up to you.

    Also, Don't go out there running the car hard with a 100 Shot and 87 Octane, Be smart and run at least 91Oct.



    All parts and prices listed below are brand new items.With links, part numbers and some info.
    First im going to give you a Break down with a very affordable Nitrous kit.
    We could stop right there and you could be on your way to an extra 75-125.But Nitrous gets a bad rap because of the negative effects such as intake backfires and explosions due to it being used incorrectly.When used correctly and safety its a very potent power adder and creates tons of low end torque.

    $380 NOS EFI Sniper kit, comes with everything you need including a w.o.t switch.

    Sniper Nitrous Kit Universal 8 Cylinder EFI, 75, 100, 125 HP.

    Here is the Ebay Link:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-07006-8...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c792a24eb&vxp=mtr

    Now that link will expire eventually so here is the Part Number NOS #07006





    Along with a W.O.T Switch its a good idea to pick up a RPM activated switch. Here is a little bit of info on the switch and how it works.It will allow you to select an activation and deactivation level anywhere from 1000 to 15,000 rpm in increments of 10 rpm. They work with high-voltage and low-voltage systems--including magnetos--and with 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12-cylinder engines. Our window switches are great for nitrous applications, allowing you to activate nitrous at a predetermined rpm and have it shut off before peak rpm.

    $51 Summit Racings RPM switch is Here. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830452-1/overview/

    Summit Racing Part Number SUM-830452-1




    For optimum Nitrous pressure you are going to want a Bottle Warmer, The easiest way for me to explain the advantages of a bottle warmer is the simple fact that if you run no warmer and your bottle is at a low pressure you won't get the full effect of the say 100 Shot and it will hit alot softer.IF you want your Nitrous kit to preform top notch your going to want your bottle pressure to achieve 900-1000 PSI as thats the key to the ultimate nitrous system performance.

    $79 Dyno Tune Bottle Warmer Can be found on there website here. https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=15 (OR) They are always floating around ebay here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrous-Oxi...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d16958a4b&vxp=mtr





    While cranking the pressure up on the bottle your going to want to keep an eye on the pressure to make sure you don't over heat the bottle. So a simple 1.5" Bottle pressure gauge is a must have.

    $25 DynoTune 1.5" Bottle pressure gauge can be found here.https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=40


    A Blow Down Tube is just another added feature for Saftey. If your nitrous bottle pressures get out of control, the pressure relief valve kicks in and allows nitrous to escape the tank to prevent serious damage. This nitrous bottle blow-down tube is designed to route any released nitrous oxide outside of the vehicle for driver safety.



    $30 for a Blow down tube Just about anywhere. Here is a link to one on Summits Site.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-16160nos?seid=srese1&gclid=COPFv8Dn2LsCFUMV7AodviQAhA




    Right now the GRAND TOTAL is at $565, Thats a pretty Stout yet Safe and just about Idiot proof nitrous kit.That you can be confident that you have all brand new parts and some of the best safety features out there for a budget builder like yourself.No i don't know about you but a safe additional 125Horse power and even more Torque for $565 Sounds like a great bang for my buck.Now cost of Bottle Refills are not factored in here in central Florida bottle refills on a typical 10Lb. bottle runs $32.

    Listed below are a few additional items that are not considered "Must Have" Items when setting up or running your nitrous kit.But i will list them as "Nice to have" items.So if the money is there these are not bad options or upgrades in the future





    First thing would be a Purge kit. Technically you could just blip the throttle and purge the nitrous into the motor like a lot of folks do, but if you feel uneasy about it or just think the look of a nitrous purge is bad ass a purge kit is for you.

    In short the primary purpose of a purge valve is to release trapped air or gaseous nitrous from the nitrous feed line. Helps to ensure more consistent performance.


    $79 DynoTune Purge kit can be found here.https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=17 (OR) here http://www.ebay.com/itm/DynoTune-Ni...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1613645c&vxp=mtr




    Another nice addition to the kit would be a high flow nitrous filter, again not a must have item but there affordable and worth the money.

    $29 High Flow DynoTune Nitrous Filter can be found here. https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=40





    Bottle Blankets Main purpose is to protect the finish of the bottle during transportation, say in and out of a racecar trailer or simply in and out of your local speed shop to get filled. It also helps hold in heat after you have reached your desired bottle pressure and the heater has been turned off.

    $25 DynoTune Bottle Blanket can be found here in either Black or Blue.
    https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=40


    $65-85 for a SVT Focus Pump 285lph These can be found on www.AdvancedAutoParts.com Online store. They are packaged in a Airtex fuel pump box but are a Genuine Walboro 285 LPH Pump Inside.
    I was able to use a Coupon code of a website called www.RetailMeNot.com and picked up the pump for $65.

    While you have the fuel tank down to replace the fuel pump, you might want to replace the rubber filler neck seal that cost $35 as there known to rip, tear or leak after tank removal. AdvancedAutoParts also list this part online. Just Remember the 94-97 Should be one part number and 98-04 are different as there were two different size filler necks used in the later year SN95s.



    Just keep in mind you don't have to worry about costly supporting mods.Like you do with Turbos or Superchargers until your wanting to surpass the 150hp barrier.Even then a stock Pump and Stock 19Lb Injectors would work just fine.But at this point a Tune would be required in my opinion as its rule of thumb to retard the timing 2* per 50Hp Of Nitrous.With that said you would reach the limits of the stock short block before you have to worry about any supporting mods as its not recommended to go any bigger then a 150 Shot on just about any stock bottom end whether it be a Pushrod or Modular Motor.

    With EVERYTHING listed on this page the GRAND TOTAL is at $798, so about $233 In Extras that like i said are not must have items but are nice additions to the Nitrous kit.

    This is a short sweet and to the point type, HOW TO Write-up. But i hope it at least serves it's purpose to help out the Beginners looking for ways to build a Brand New Affordable but Stout & Safe Wet Nitrous Kit!

    -330
     
  2. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Well-Known Member

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    [MENTION=10830]MustangChris[/MENTION] sticky this when he finishes so the noobs AFTER me don't have to make more threads haha :) thanks Frank!
     
  3. Musturd

    Musturd Well-Known Member

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    Nitrous is the bomb and not the bomb that blows up your motor nitrous is fanfukintastic
     
  4. 330CubeGt

    330CubeGt Well-Known Member

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    Sorry in advance if there are any spelling or punctuation errors. I'm not good at proof reading shit!

    With that said, i am in no way shape or form a professional and this write up was done based on my little bit of knowledge.To try and show people affordable options based on my "Opinion" of what a Stout but Safe Nitrous kit consist of with the Budget Builder/Stock short block in mind.
     
  5. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

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    'ol frank knows his shiznit!!!! i agree..it should be a sticky
     
  6. 330CubeGt

    330CubeGt Well-Known Member

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    Thanks tony, means a lot coming from a guy who I was trying to piss off in the RR section the other day lol:p
     
  7. Tony

    Tony Well-Known Member

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    lol, yea you were. i'd still holler at you for some NOS questions first.

    edit: dam see...i called it NOS. already fuukin up :undecided:
     
  8. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    Great writeup!

    May also add an explanation of wet vs dry. Other than that, Frank covered it!!
     
  9. Carnage281

    Carnage281 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this write up, I've been on the fence about nitrous for a while now because of the backfire stories. After reading this I think I may go the nitrous route. Only one question though, I heard that nitrous can wear or make your engine weaker (resulting in blowing the motor) is that true? I don't think it is, but trying to make sure.
     
  10. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Well-Known Member

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    ^Any form of f/i is wear and tear on your motor that may eventually cause it to blow up haha
     
  11. Carnage281

    Carnage281 Well-Known Member

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    ^ Yeah I thought so lmao thanks for the reply. Well I guess now the plan is run the nitrous kit for a few years unitil I save up enough for some forged internals and a vortech. :sad5: Any donations? lol
     
  12. 330CubeGt

    330CubeGt Well-Known Member

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    Nitrous is a chemical form of boost in simplest terms, Any power adder will takes its toll on a stock motor. Thats why people normally stick to no more then 8-10psi or 150 Max on Nitrous.Even then depending on the tune either power adder could have negative effects on a stock bottom end.For example i had my stock bottom end cobra at 13 psi for a few months, but after a tune, few dyno pulls and a couple pulls on the street two of the stock rods exited the block.

    Only thing i absolutely love about nitrous is its lighter, easier to install for someone wanting to do it them self's and you can slap a 100 Hp kit on the car with a stock tune,19lb injectors, fuel pump and maf.So like a buddy of mine did, picked up a used kit for $250 and here we are 2 years later un tuned with everything from a 75-150 shot thrown at it with a 100% stock car and its still running.This is not likely but it does happen.The more you know about nitrous and how it works and what can cause it to be catastrophic the better prepared you can be to prevent it from happening.


    I had a Wet vs. Dry article i did not type but i put together from bits and pieces of articles i found on the web and i thought it was posted here. IF not i will see if i can grab it off another forums and post it up here when i get a chance.