I hate this car. Grouding Issue?

[Twista]

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZVqzj8cx3s&feature=youtu.be

I checked the grounds and there tight. Im on my last straw with being stranded because of this issue.


Starter Replaced Twice
New battery
New fat (+) battery from battery to starter
Starter heat shield installed
New Ignition switch installed.
Starter relay changed.

And the problem just contines to rear its ugly head.. sometimes leaving me stranded for a long time. Jiggling the shifter did nothing.. its just a habit.

 

[Burninriverdiver]

What's the voltage at while running?

 

[Twista]

What's the voltage at while running?

14.5-14.9v i think.

 

[Burninriverdiver]

14.5-14.9v i think.

Over 13 and under 15 is normal to my understanding... I wish I could help out more, it sounds like when my alternator needed replaced from your symptoms.

 

[Twista]

Over 13 and under 15 is normal to my understanding... I wish I could help out more, it sounds like when my alternator needed replaced from your symptoms.

From my recent encouters with the ALT. I usually change them when its not changing at all or it changes off and on. I been told it could be my Distruibtor going out, but that wouldn't cause a "no crank" would it.

Same with the ALT. Could that cause a NO crank then it cranks just fine without no jumper cables??

 

[5.0l cory]

my distruibtor went when I was driving just shut down and all it would do just crank but no start kill the battery and I put in a new richpotter distruibtor runs fine now

 

[ttocs]

you said the grounds are tight but are they clean? When was the last time you cleaned them?

 

[evilcw311]

Have you replaced the battery?!? If you have a shorted cell in the battery it can cause it to randomly act like it's dead and then not and back and fourth. It will still still show a surface charge for minimal current but when you put it under load it will again not start. I had a battery that would do this and it drove me insane. My car would start fine and next thing you new it would act dead. Right as I'm getting ready to light a match to its ass it would magically start again.

Just a thought, get a battery from a friend if you can and try that.


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[Twista]

Have you replaced the battery?!? If you have a shorted cell in the battery it can cause it to randomly act like it's dead and then not and back and fourth. It will still still show a surface charge for minimal current but when you put it under load it will again not start. I had a battery that would do this and it drove me insane. My car would start fine and next thing you new it would act dead. Right as I'm getting ready to light a match to its ass it would magically start again.

Just a thought, get a battery from a friend if you can and try that.


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Sorry forgot to mention. New battery


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[evilcw311]

Sorry forgot to mention. New battery


* Sent from tapatalk while sitting on the toilet at work*

Back to the drawing board!!!!!
Lol


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[ttocs]

When was the last time you removed the grounds cleaned the connection and then retightened them?

 

[Twista]

When was the last time you removed the grounds cleaned the connection and then retightened them?

I cleaned the big one by crank pulley. There is one by the oil pump that was tight. At this point I might take it to the professionals. Ttocs from the video does my issue seems like a grounding issue? I'm just stuck because the issue didn't start till 3 weeks after my alarm and remote start install. My installer said everything is working as intended. I'm very close to have the system removed by another shop and returned to stock.

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[ttocs]

no it really doesn't seem like a ground issue if it were the car would probably not crank as well. Which alarm/rs did you have installed? There is some clicking noises that I can't tell if its a relay or if you have a stick and are just knocking it back and forth to tell its in neutral. Also what year this doesn't have pats does it? Its possible if its a pats system that the bypass is interfering and turning on with the key in the ignition so it sees two keys causing an err. If the car doesn't have pats though then its not an option.


I would probably start by taking it to the shop that installed it and have them disconnect it and see if it get better.

 

[5litrarag]

94-95 dont have PATS. Whats the other symptoms? Does it ever happen while driving?

 

[5litrarag]

Is it the original distributor? How many miles on the car? What about the negative cable? OEM? Does it have any corrosion on it? Sometimes they look okay, but when you remove them and look at them you'll find they have corroded from the inside out.

 

[Twista]

no it really doesn't seem like a ground issue if it were the car would probably not crank as well. Which alarm/rs did you have installed? There is some clicking noises that I can't tell if its a relay or if you have a stick and are just knocking it back and forth to tell its in neutral. Also what year this doesn't have pats does it? Its possible if its a pats system that the bypass is interfering and turning on with the key in the ignition so it sees two keys causing an err. If the car doesn't have pats though then its not an option.


I would probably start by taking it to the shop that installed it and have them disconnect it and see if it get better.

I have a omega 1850 installed on my car. The clicking noise is just my shifter. No p ats and the issue didn't start till about 3 weeks after the rs. Alarm install. The installer took a look and said everything is good

I have unplugged the brain last summer and drove around and same issue happen. I kind of think it's something wrong with the writing of the alarm myself. I guess a different shop with good reviews will have to do my system over.

The distributor is stock. Miles I'm not sure.. Maybe 165k.

The negative cable looks fine.

At this point I'm thinking about taking the car to a different alarm shop and have them remove this whole install and put my car back to factory like but with keyless entry.

Is it the original distributor? How many miles on the car? What about the negative cable? OEM? Does it have any corrosion on it? Sometimes they look okay, but when you remove them and look at them you'll find they have corroded from the inside out.

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[lwarrior1016]

I had an issue very similar to yours, but it was with my Harley. I would turn the key on, lights would come on, hit the start, get a click, lights would go black, let off the button everything back to normal. The only difference is that my bike would not start at all, no matter how many times I tried it. Mine ended up being a bad connection with the frame ground. The ground was tight and clean it just didn't want to make a good connection. I took it off, wire brushed it, reconnected and everything was good from there.

 

[Michael Plummer]

Three weeks after alarm system installation and depending on the type of features (Ignition/Starter kill switch), I would disconnect or unwire it and don't wire up anything else until you're able to locate the source of your problem.

Air, fuel, spark and compression. Find out which one isn't present and then start down that path. In most cases, you should have air and compression and that leaves fuel and spark. Every tool box should have these two items, a spark tester and a noid light if you don't have them, get them it will make troubleshooting 10x easier.

Install the spark tester to the coil wire and preform the cranking you did in the video. You may need another person to either watch or crank the vehicle. If you don't see a spark when cranking report back.

 

[Twista]

Three weeks after alarm system installation and depending on the type of features (Ignition/Starter kill switch), I would disconnect or unwire it and don't wire up anything else until you're able to locate the source of your problem.

Air, fuel, spark and compression. Find out which one isn't present and then start down that path. In most cases, you should have air and compression and that leaves fuel and spark. Every tool box should have these two items, a spark tester and a noid light if you don't have them, get them it will make troubleshooting 10x easier.

Install the spark tester to the coil wire and preform the cranking you did in the video. You may need another person to either watch or crank the vehicle. If you don't see a spark when cranking report back.

It has everything.. air/fuel/spark.. what it doesnt have is power to the starter. When it's acting up it doesn't crank at all. And the alarm has a starter kill feature and relay. The relay had been swapped with a new one. Same random issue

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[evilcw311]

Now that I know you have a new battery I'm thinking the same as others with removing the entire system. Could be a shorted wire from the install that keeps triggering the starter inhibit relay or it could be something actually wrong in the alarm. I've seen both happen several times.


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