I think I've got a problem

import_slayer94

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:help2:
I finsihed my h/c/i swap and my car doesnt quite run right. There is no power under 1000 rpm and it barely stays running. Also I had to keep giving it gas for five minutes when I started it this mornin (under 30 degrees outside) to keep it alive. It does not have near the power it should have for the mods I put in, it feels weaker than stock if anything. The timing is set relatively low, havent had a chance to adjust it. The problem didnt seem to happen when I had my stock h-pipe on but I only drove it once before I put the o/r x-pipe on. I didnt hook up the tube that went into the cats on the h-pipe when i put my x-pipe on, I dont know if it throws off some sensor and puts too much fuel to the engine; which seems to be the problem because the fumes seemed very rich in fuel when it was warming up this mornin. Fuel system and MAF are stock if that helps any. Im open to suggestions, Thanks if you got any
 

rj95svt

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First things first you need to set the timing! If the timing is very low it will seem like a slug and will idle really low. I'm not saying that there isn't a problem but you don't know till you set the timing. What H/C/I did you use?
 

import_slayer94

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The timing isnt set so low that it should be causing a problem but I have holley heads, tfs intake, and tfs stage 2 cam
 

ryclef331

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First...what IS the timing set at?

Secondly, if you don't have the smog tube hooked up, did you at least block it off!?

Third, is the Check Engine Light on? and if yes, can you pull the codes?

I'll start there. Anything else is shooting in the dark really. If the car ran good before, it is probably something simple. Why didn't you hook the smog tube back up? Oh...here is a big one...Did you reconnect the AIR tubes to the back of the heads or AT LEAST plug them??

Get back to me on those, and i'll try to help.
 

import_slayer94

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The timing was set about ten degrees, Ill probably bump it up a little tomorrow and see if that helps. The air tubes to the back of the heads is blocked off, and there is no engine light. I didnt hook the smog tube up because I was trying to put the x-pipe on before work and the connection to old cats was stuck and I couldnt shimmy it out. Maybe I'll try hookin that up tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas
 

Hybrid Freak

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A TFS Stage 2 cam. i personally think thats pushing it on a stock ecu on an sn95 computer. Not dyno tuned its not going to idle all that well. Sn95 i would use a e303 steeda #19 or TFS Stage1. Good luck man and get that timing set, also do you have an adjustable FPR and fuel guage those will really help you!
 

vbr pete

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see the "im thinking of going carb" post....

the SN cars seem to have an inherent problem when modded with a "big" cam, eyc.the EEC just doesnt like them.the mass air meters are inadequate,the 19 lb injectors (you didnt say if the injectors had been changed) might be flatlining with enough airflow,and in general the thing wont like the mods

i built one a few years ago as such; FRPP GT40X heads,B cam,Cobra intake,65mm TB,headers yada yada.car ran like CRAP,wouldnt idle properly,3 mpg on a goood day.

funny thing--i had a 91 Tbird parts car with the same 5.0 in it.took the computer out and put it in the 94 mustang and BAM it idled sweet,ran like a bear.just didnt have a wiring hookup for the electric fan,so we switched it with a toggle.

just for S&G,i put a DIFFERENT 94 EEC in it to see if maybe the first one was bad.nope,ran like crap again,so the T-bird one stayed in

after doing all the basics,you might want to try getting a T-bird eec (91-93 5.0 liter t-birds and cougars only) if it wont idle properly.it SHOULD be a pussycat with that cam etc
 

ryclef331

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For GOD's SAKE....STOP slamming the Sn95 computers....

YES they are ALOT more touchy than the fox's A9L or equivalents BUT there is NO reason it can't run and drive like a damn near stock...ESPECIALLY after a tune. If you do a full on H/C/I setup and DON'T factor in getting a tune, you're a fool from the get go. I've got a 331 stroker, afr 185 heads, ported edelbrock performer, 75mm throttle body, and a cam ground for a CARB'd setup with a hyd roller. Aside from a small surge on cold start up, idles and drives like STOCK. BEFORE I EVEN GOT IT TUNED. I can't stress enough that your TUNE is NOT your problem right now. You've got something else going on right now. Fix the small shit before going to the dyno, otherwise that is just going to give your tuner a headache and cost you money while he fixes your small fuck ups. ANOTHER THING....DON'T EVER base your selection of your car on what "your computer likes." Thats BULLSHIT. You make the COMPUTER like your cam when you get it tuned.

If the timing is at 10 degress...are you SURE its ten degrees ADVANCED? Not saying you're stupid b/c I myself have done it....and the car runs like absolute ASSHOLE. You didn't say whether or not your EGR is hooked up still or not. Judging by the fact you said you have no codes, I'm assuming that the valve assembly itself is still on the car.

Verify your timing...if it barely idles, runs like a dog, and throws no codes...that COULD be your culprit.
 

ryclef331

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also...again, not questioning your intelligence but you DID pull the spout and put it back in right?
 

Nacho

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I agree with you, Ryclef, about the stock computer being a good computer. They're quicker and can handle tuning better than the a9l BUT for us who don't like to fuck around with the whole tuning shit the a9l does miracles. The problem with the our eec is that is too restricted and doesn't like mods very well without tuning. I did the a9l swap and my car has been running strong. I bought the Tweecer to try and get my t4mo up to speed, but that fucking program just irritated the shit out of me. I ended up selling it and swapping computers. No problems since. *knocks on wood*
 

WhsNxt9566

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hey bro mine is doing the same. I did heads and cam and it feels slower then when it was stock. ok maybe not as slow but not nearly as fast as she should be. i know she has more in her. its the tune and timing. but everyone has already told ya that. this reason is why i posted the "going to carb" topic.
 

import_slayer94

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The problem was timing. I put some chalk on the timing guage to see it better and it read 10* ATDC, before the chalk all I saw was 10*. Now its 15* advanced and it runs 1000 times better. Cant redline it yet with the new pistons and rings but I can still tell there is some power there. I appreciate your help guys
 

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