Ignition Key Switch issue

Discussion in 'General Tech' started by 98svtcontour98, May 9, 2016.

  1. 98svtcontour98

    98svtcontour98 New Member

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    Need Your Knowledge...1996 Cobra

    So I went to turn off my car after parking it...but it wouldn't turn off. The key would turn to the off position, however the car wouldn't stop running, even after taking the key completely out! After manually killing the car, the car would still start but you had to turn the key forward quite a bit. Once the car was killed, everything stays on inside the car as if the key was turned forward, so I had to disconnect the batter to turn everything off for the night.

    Any ideas on the issue here?

    Thanks

    UPDATE: Well, tried to remove the cylinder and now the key and cylinder are stuck forward...won't move
     
  2. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    you mean you can't get the key in now? You need to insert the key, turn it to the run position and then stick the pick/screwdriver into the little hole on the bottom and while pushing it in, pull the key/cylinder out.
     
  3. 98svtcontour98

    98svtcontour98 New Member

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    No, now I can't get the key out and the cylinder won't move at all, forward or backwards, it's stuck in the forward position.


    I did that but it wouldn't budge and now its locked and won't move period...before I could rotate the ignition cylinder forward and backwards.

    I'm gonna have to drop it off at a shop tomorrow I think...assuming I can start it and get it there.
     
  4. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    try jiggling the key in/out of the slot while trying to turn it. Sounds like the tumblers have failed and you will have to play with it to get it right now.
     
  5. 98svtcontour98

    98svtcontour98 New Member

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    They are replacing the switch today...if that doesn't work, they said they will likely need to replace the entire steering column!!

    I'm in shock
     
  6. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    I assume its a similar design to my 1992 F150. I made a stop once, went to shut it off, key did nothing. If I turned it forward, i could bump the starter again, but nothing worked turning it back. Took it to Ford since I was in school, no where to work on it, and was busy, they pulled the trim off the column got it shut off. Turned out the ignition cylinder rotates, pushes a lever that slides a peg that comes out of a box/module. They got it so the module was hanging, no key in it at all, and you could move it around to get to the different "key positions". I wanted to bypass it all and put flip switches on the dash to start it, but the steering wheel lock would have been an issue. Ended up pulling the whole steering column out at the Mech Engineering shop, replacing that broken linkage, new tumbler. And it was good to go.
     
  7. 98svtcontour98

    98svtcontour98 New Member

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    they said something about the rods inside the column are broken and needing to be rebuilt...so they are rebuilding it....$400 to $500

    :mad:
     
  8. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    Thats what they quoted me too. Same deal. Hardest part is removing the steering column, need a steering wheel puller to get that off, the rest isn't so bad. You can do it yourself if you have a puller. I made one out of some scrap we found around the shop. Parts was like < $50 from napa.....
     
  9. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    Here is the "Ignition Starter Switch" MOTORCRAFT SW5011. I assume it is fine, just the rod that connects the tumbler to it is bad.




    [​IMG]

    Here is the rod for it

    Ford F2DZ-3E723-A


    http://www.amazon.com/Ford-F2DZ-3E723-A-ACTUATOR-ASY/dp/B000O0RVC6
     
  10. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    well now ya don't NEED a puller.... I got mine off by giving it a solid open hand slap at the 12/3/6/9 oclock positions and then gave a light tug and it came right off.
     
  11. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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  12. DeepList

    DeepList Administrator Admin SN95 Supporter

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    There's a plastic "ignition actuator rod" inside the steering column. When you turn your key forward, this rod moves forward, and in return moves the lever on the ignition starter switch between the off, run, and start positions. Over time, the pin that holds it in place and/or plastic rod itself will wear out and break.

    $400 to fix this is a rip as the actuator rod assembly is less than $20... it's just the labor costs to replace it properly because the only way to get to it is to tear the whole damn steering column apart.

    A half-assed way of fixing this is to simply remove the ignition starter switch and let it dangle down by your knees. Then you can just reach up there and move the lever with your fingers to start the car in "ghetto mode." I did this for years with my old shitty V6 because I didn't care enough about it to spend the time or money to fix it properly.