In the planning stages of an engine rebuild, need some info

monkeydude3

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Well through some testing and reading, my engine is losing compression through the piston rings which is in turn blowing oil through my PCV valve. So it's time to rebuild. The car has 113,500 what I believe to be HARD miles on it.

My plans are a forged crank, rods, and pistons with the beefiest piston rings I can get. Of course the block will be taken to a machine shop to be cylinder honed and inspected.

I am debating what would be the best option for my cylinder heads. Rebuild, cut the valves/seats and P&P? Or are there better heads for a little bit more money that will get me where I'm going? I'd like to top this off with a nice set of cams.

Also, while the engine is apart, what should I replace else? I was thinking of getting a set of timing chains for it too.


My main questions are these. Who would sell a bottom end kit like I'm looking for for a decent price? Also, I am going to need micrometers and telescoping gauges to make my measurements before final assembly, along with some plastigage. Where would be the best place to buy these from? I want to buy a nice set of these tools either as a set or one at a time depending on price, so that when I pull the engine apart I'll have them all.

I'm not quite sure of the final end of my engine. I want it completely forged which is a for sure thing. Whether it becomes N/A for life or S/C, that my wallet will have to be the decision maker. I don't know what cam would work good in both cases either.

George
 

caseypayne69

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As far has heads go you have four or five good options on port and polished PI heads. You can also opt'd for FRPP heads from Ford, or just buy regular PI heads from Ford.

Vtengines (2nd best flow i've found for ported PI heads)
stage 1 heads: 200/180 @ .550 lift $1,695
stage 2 heads: 220/195 @ .550 lift $1,995

www.foxlakeracing.com (best flowing ported PI heads)
stage 1 heads: 200/182 @ .550 lift $1,495
stage 2 heads: 223/195 @ .550 lift $1,795

If you want ported PI heads I'd go with foxlake. If you want FRPP heads they flow like this in stock form

FRPP heads 215/147 @ .550 lift $800 ish a piece

Now imagine having ported FRPP heads, thats Cobra territory from what I understand, when it comes to airflow.

Things to replace: oil pump, main bearings, pistons, rods, all gaskets, timing chains, balancers.


Cheap bottom end kits

VTengines short blocks $3,000 to $4,000
Fox lake short block that supports up to 700 hp $ 2,995
I cant remember but there is a couple companies that sell short blocks better then stock for around $2,500.


I'm not sure where u can find tools like that. I'm wondering the same my self.
 

monkeydude3

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hey man thanks for the info!

I'm probably gonna do most of the dissassembly and assembly myself.

Would it be a good idea to buy a full rotating assembly and then a new block, and build it myself?

I appreciate your details
 

DropTopPony

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I was going to rebuild my shortblock myself with the help of my good friend who is a Ford Tech. After i gathered everything together i have decided to send it all to Steen Racing to be machined and built by a pro. The reason i made this choice is the tolerances in a modular are tight and if you don't know what your doing exactly you will either starve your main bearing and cause failure or make them too loose and cause failure. I saw a guy on modular depot who was a decent mechanic do this to his own build so i am making the wise choice here. Also the needed tools are expensive. Beside the standard tools you'll need a rod bolt stretcher etc. I have assembled all of the best parts and i don't want to have to redo it again next year so i want piece of mind. Your best bet is buy a complete Long block (shortblock + heads/cams) from a good builder . You only save a few hundred dollars doing it yourself and the tools would cost more then that.
 

monkeydude3

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hmm... the short blocks i want are at least $3000... and the long blocks gotta be around $5000-$6000... ::sigh::
 

Dalamar

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I agree with Droptop on the assembly.


You really should decide if you're gonna charge it - you'll want to look at a supercharger grind cam vs. NA.
and you'll want lower compression.

Another good priced rotating assembly is from Livernios, but the delivery is waaay out, so it you want it quick, I'd go with VT or someone else.
You're timing chains should be fine, but you will want a high flow oil pump, WP, and probably a new balancer like CaseyP said.
 

monkeydude3

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all right sweet. Yeah I'm gonna blow it, I just don't know how soon after the build I can strap it on. Really depends on how fast i can save up.


I have access to many smart engine builders who can and said they will help me where they can with my build... so the build isn't the issue
 

Dalamar

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I'm in the same boat man! money money money...
 

monkeydude3

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yup! Right now I'm trying to buy a beater p/u truck. Once I have that, I will be able to tear my car apart and have something to drive. I also have a few small bills to pay off... once those are gone I will have surplus cash.


But my engine will need to be repaired/rebuilt/replaced. And while I'm at it... why not upgrade the sh*t out of it. ;D
 

Slow98GT

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yup money is a problem but some day all mustang owners are gonna win the lotto so it's all good ;D
 

DropTopPony

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Dalamar said:
I'm in the same boat man! money money money...

haha i hear that! I have 12-15k in parts laying around but i'm saving for the install and trying to remodel my 125 year old Victorian house at the same time....so my issue is money and time! I need a clone of me with a seperate job to pay my bills while i work on my car :D
 

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