Intake manifold swap

Not_John · Mar 23, 2025

Im looking to swap out the stock upper and lower intake manifold on my 95 GT for this one of a 97 explorer. I know I'm going to need an elbow for the throttle body. I believe this is the style that I can keep my EGR with. I just want to know what gaskets I need to buy? Can I keep using my factory injectors? Is there anything else I haven't thought of? I've attached pictures of the manifold im using. Any help would be appreciated?

ttocs · Mar 23, 2025

no need to swap out the injectors until you get into the heads and honestly I am not sure I would go through the trouble of putting it on till I had heads to go with it. The gains will not be much with just the intake and you will have to take it off when you do the heads and maybe the injectors. I would save the time and put it all on at one time and then you will notice the difference.

Terrorist 5.0 · Mar 24, 2025

You would need baskets from an Explorer in that case, at least the upper to lower plenum gasket, not sure on the lower to heads gasket. Be careful on the lower intake bolts. Some of them are known to break in the head, and when that happens, if you are not able to unscrew it with some vice grips or an extractor, chances are you are taking those heads off and straight to a machine shop. Soak everything in penetrating oil and be careful. Good luck.

95opal · Mar 24, 2025

You'll need an upper cobra intake gasket and possibly spacer depending on valve cover choice. Also a felpro 1250 lower intake gasket. Intake elbow and gasket set unless your converting to fox body set up. Stock injectors are fine until you add heads and cam.

Not_John · Mar 24, 2025

Ok, thanks for the advice. I'm not planning on doing heads and cams for a while probably another year or 2, maybe not at all of im satisfied with the gains I get from this. I'm running stock valve covers for now don't really plan on changing them out anytime soon. so I'm assuming I'm good to run without a spacer? Also planning on getting a larger throttle body, also have an exhaust on order. I'm just doing these easier air flow mods to get a little extra kick out of the car. It's just a street car I just want it to be fun without it getting me a ticket.

95opal · Mar 24, 2025

Not_John said:
Ok, thanks for the advice. I'm not planning on doing heads and cams for a while probably another year or 2, maybe not at all of im satisfied with the gains I get from this. I'm running stock valve covers for now don't really plan on changing them out anytime soon. so I'm assuming I'm good to run without a spacer? Also planning on getting a larger throttle body, also have an exhaust on order. I'm just doing these easier air flow mods to get a little extra kick out of the car. It's just a street car I just want it to be fun without it getting me a ticket.

You won't see any significant gains from the intake tbody swap. But you may feel a slight boost in the butt-o- meter. I'm sure there is a few ponies you'll pick up but nothing to wright home about. A gear swap will make the car faster than an intake swap.

Not_John · Mar 24, 2025

I'm fine with just the butt-o-meter gains. I got the manifold for what I would consider a good deal ($200 found on marketplace was the cheapest in my area) it looks to be in good condition. I'm going to clean it up paint it make it look nice before I swap it. And after it's all said and done and I don't see a significant gain then in my opinion anyway it's not a big deal. My engine bay will look a little nicer and it's a supporting mod crossed off the list if I ever decide I want to swap the heads.

ttocs · Mar 24, 2025

As opal and I said this is one of those mods where you might be able to kind of convince yourself that it is a little faster after all the work, but as mentioned above some of the bolts go through to the cooling routs in the heads and they can break. I know this from personal experience when I tried to put a cobra intake on mine around the '03 time and at that point work came to a halt as it was either the machine shop or a new set of heads and no one really wants to spend money on the factory heads.... I didn't have the cash for new heads at the time so it ended up sitting for a few months till I could replace them. If that intake has not been off much/recently/ever I would REALLY give it some though before you snap that bolt up front by the dist like I did.

Terrorist 5.0 · Mar 24, 2025

If your car has stock rear gearing (more specifically a 2.73, 3.08 is not bad) then an intake may hurt you more than you think. While the GT40 style intakes are known to sacrifice very little low end for a pretty gain in mid and high end, low end is what you really need. It’s what makes the car feel fast. If I were you, I would focus on a ring and pinion upgrade first. I personally like the 3.27/3.31 but most people say at least 3.55 and 3.73 for the speed junkies. I am referring to T5 cars. AOD cars can use all the gear they can get. Just make sure you can hook.

Terrorist 5.0 · Mar 24, 2025

If your car has stock rear gearing (more specifically a 2.73, 3.08 is not bad) then an intake may hurt you more than you think. While the GT40 style intakes are known to sacrifice very little low end for a pretty gain in mid and high end, low end is what you really need. It’s what makes the car feel fast. If I were you, I would focus on a ring and pinion upgrade first. I personally like the 3.27/3.31 but most people say at least 3.55 and 3.73 for the speed junkies. I am referring to T5 cars. AOD cars can use all the gear they can get, so long as you can hook.

Monsterbishi · Mar 24, 2025

It's absolutely essential that you clean all the threads/bolts with a tap & die before reinstallation, otherwise you're almost guaranteed to break something, new bolts are cheap insurance too.

Not_John · Mar 24, 2025

Hardware kit is on my list of things to buy. Just looking at the responses warning me on broken bolts I've already picked up that heat and pb blaster are going to be my friends here. I have an inductive heater so I can put some good heat into the bolts before taking them out. I'm thinking I'll just hit it with the inductive heater and some pb blaster a couple days in a row leading up to the swap, don't think ill get it cherry red just enough to heat the whole bolt up and loosen any corrosion that might have built up.

ttocs · Mar 24, 2025

those are long bolts so if your using heat you will probably need to use a fair amount to get the other end hot enough.

Also be sure to put a dab of RTV/silicon on the end of the bolts that do go into the coolant passage.

Terrorist 5.0 · Mar 24, 2025

If you are using an elbow, stuff is not going to fit the greatest, I’ve heard it is best to assemble the whole upper plenum, then bolt it down. Take that with a grain of salt though. I’ve long considered a Cobra intake, but after taking a long hard look at the car I just can’t bring myself to shell out the money for one, to put on a car that is going to have terminal rust at a later point in time.

ttocs · Mar 24, 2025

I thought a small spacer was needed to clear the valve covers but it has been 20 yrs since I swapped mine. I thought a 1/2" was needed and as I think about it now there isn't much space under it. Someone can correct me if I am wrong i know with the cobra intake you have to use the bbk strut tower brace to clear it, not sure about the explorer gt40.

Terrorist 5.0 · Mar 25, 2025

ttocs said:
I thought a small spacer was needed to clear the valve covers but it has been 20 yrs since I swapped mine. I thought a 1/2" was needed and as I think about it now there isn't much space under it. Someone can correct me if I am wrong i know with the cobra intake you have to use the bbk strut tower brace to clear it, not sure about the explorer gt40.

AFAIK no spacer is needed. I think the Cobra strut tower bar is though, don’t quote me on that.

Wmac · Mar 25, 2025

The front right bolt seems to be the one that snaps, possibly coolant spillage/leakage from around the tstat housing area causes corrosion. Notice the rust on that location in the photo above. Yes, happened to me.

Get "explorer" gaskets from rockauto; intake, t/b, tstat housing, egr, etc. I prefer fel-pro.
ARP intake bolt kit works. I used the 12 point s/s. Also use a Trick Flow adapter.

Port the lower (at least a gasket match). Carbide burrs from HF, easy diy. Even open up the upper, if you have time.

Most of the larger t/bodies cause idle issues, bit pain with no gain. If you can find an older Ford Motorsports 65mm, grab it. Save the money for gears.

Aftermarket valve covers often cause fitment issues. The egr mounting ears can be shaved somewhat. Stock s/t brace will not fit.