Well guys if you were following my other thread, you know that BAMA wanted me to do some datalogging due to the fact that my rpms hang really high between shifts. Here are some interesting things that I saw along the way. First off, the car has everything stock when it comes to the cooling system. The car averaged from between 185-200 degrees F during my whole hour or more of driving. It only touched 200 degrees after idling for a few minutes in trafffic. It was about a 70 degree day today with pretty low humidity. I would say the average temp was 190 degrees cruising around. That seemed very very cold to me. Second, the car has steeda underdrive pulleys on it. I never saw the charging voltage go below 13.6V or so when driving or at idle. If someone was scared to use these, I say go for it. Third, the car has a JLT true cold air intake. This is the newest version of it and its the one that goes down into the fender. The hottest that the IAT ever read was 78 degrees sitting still. I would say this is probably alot cooler air than any other aftermarket intake available especially those metal versions. I am going to mail them off the files once I log an idle cycle, but I still dont see what could cause this hanging idle/shift RPM crap. Riding around the IAC was saying anywhere from 42-58% but I really dont know how to read these numbers and what they are supposed to be at. Anyhow I just thought this could start a couple conversations. Thanks guys.
Pretty cool! Always nice to learn how things go. I need to dig into the tuning aspects to get a better understanding of whats going on. Thanks for the insight
What kind of Steeda UDP's you have? The first gen or the second gen? I have first gen where the water pump is a solid piece with no cut outs in it.
Hmm thats cool about the jlt. I really want one because of its color, inner diameter and how it cleans up the engine bay. I think Im sold lol. I have an ebay cai I havent installed yet but Ill probably run it until I buy the jlt. What Im curious about is why is a hanging idle such a common problem with these cars yet there has been no solution yet.
I'm willing to bet that aftermarket generic tunes are not like factory in terms of idling etc..you really a custom dyno tune to match all your aftermarket parts.
I am going to dish out the $ after the cam install for a dyno tune. All of this email tune crap was just to turn off the check engine light for the rear o2 sensors. Then it turned into this. However if the issue is with something on the car, I want to discover it before a true dyno tune.
What I found on my new TB&P were micro leaks everywhere, same symptoms. Every time I redid a gasket and used FelPro "Tight" and Loctite "Rightstuff" on every mainshaft seal and screw and joint the idle would get a little better which made me look harder and take things apart more to see if I could make a difference and the sum total was big. Another thing I did was switch to Hitachi and Nippon Denso for all the intake and fuel replacement parts because the Motorcraft parts were not giving OEM performance and they are made by Standard. I do not think Standard is worrying much about a 20 year old design like they were when Ford ordered 1 million of them the first time around. I am getting crap from my buddies every Sunday at the car show for the Jap stuff but they admit that my car has the smoothest 4.6 idle, Dang Japs.
Thats very interesting. It just bugs me that just by loading the stock tune into the car that all the problems go away.
