mustang3550
New Member
Any input on this A Arm build for irs would be most appricated, Doing my own this with some DOM tubing and aluminum bushing.
220v yes for sure. Im leaving the unit completly assembled and weld 3 braces to the rotor to assure it would not move as I welded, Im kinda going off Kenny Brown set, Coil overs yes. Seeing price of good bushing from sat FTBR I decide to machine and turn my own. Machining career and background. Using dom and tubing bender for the 1" dom.120 wall tubing. When torqued the a arm is freely moving and gussets are in the work. Slot is there to chamver adjustment. Stock are ill drop right back in as this on will go in aswell. I removebraces that held rotor and still easy assembly.From a fabrication standpoint I would add some gussets in to help strengthen the arm. Not trying to down your work, and you may have known/done the rest of this. Ideally you are working with a 220v mig or tig welder and not a 115v, I don't know if you'll get enough penetration with 115v mig. The tube ends should be notched. You should make a jig up and bolt the stock arm down, that way when you fab the new arm it has the same geometry, or if your changing it for some reason its in a controlled enviroment and can be dialed in.
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Street and nights to ride out and for use at VIR. ALOT to upgrade on this. No harm done im looking at to see what people think and get further input. It will be stiff but as I see movement is what kills these units. Upgrading it to all 31 spline will be next. Will have a 408 n/a driving it.
looking good so far. I question your spindle side bushing. Would be better if that was 1 piece bent to a C, as it appears to be three pieces of strap welded together. Maybe some reinforcement on the area. Hard to tell from a picture though .
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