Is this Termi worth it?

TanTop94

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So Ive been debating on finding an 03-04 Cobra to have some fun with, my car would be kept as a daily and this would end up being my nice weekend car. Though, I dont feel like financing a 20k+ Cobra ATM, but afford to grab this up and have it paid off rather quickly. Now, if you read the CL link youll see it needs some work and probably had a hard life, is it worth it to you? Why? I need to get some outside perspectives on this car...

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/4426517267.html

[h=2]2004 Mustang Cobra 2.2 KB - $11500 (College Park)[/h]
00B0B_2IWfGzBpyE4_600x450.jpg


2004 Ford Mustang Cobra odometer: 64800 manual transmission title : clean

I have for sale a Silver Coupe 2004 Mustang Cobra with 64k miles on it. This car currently needs a few things to be completely running again.

About 4 months ago, we installed a newish long block and after starting it up for the first time, it was hesitating and dying and turns out the the fuel pump was burnt out. So I took it to a performance shop and had them install an entire new fuel system, an Aeromotive a1000 fuel system. New pump, rails, lines were installed. However, when I got the car back it would not start and they told me it was the theft system preventing the car from starting. They told me I had to get a tuner to disable it.. So I took it to Horsepower by Hermann, and he diagnosed it as not the theft system, but the entire fuel system needed to be redone because the shop previously did not do it correctly. So he redid the fuel system and the car starts and runs now. The car has a base tune just to get it to run but not drive. The car now has valve train noise on the driver side, Hermann has told me the cams were not degreed properly on the driver side head and that will need to be corrected. The car does run and idles and everything, just the valve train noise. Also, after the cams are degreed properly, a tune will be needed in order for the car to be able to be driven.

CURRENTLY THE CAR HAS A REALLY ROUGH IDLE AND HESITATES TO ACCELERATE.

**I do have a 4 page receipt from Hermann describing what needs to be done to the car. Everything on it pretty much reflects the above.**

Now onto why the long block was replaced.

2 years ago the clutch pressure plate blew up and took out the original engine block, everything else was fine thankfully. It did, however, put one small hole (Like 2 inches) in the upper bay area, motor had to be pulled out to even see it, kind of hard to explain the location, it was welded and sprayed silver, you couldn't even tell there was a hole.

Now onto somethings about the car

2 years ago I drove it in the rain and accidently shifted from 5th to 2nd gear, I fishtailed slightly and sideswiped a guard rail. No damage was done except scratches to the passenger side and headlight and rim. Brand new headlight was installed and I paid for a new paint job on that side. The whole passenger side, door, quarter, fender, front bumper and hood were painted and it cost $3,000 and is a damn good job. 1 rim does have curb rash, from the curb from the accident but all other 3 do not, they do need a good cleaning from sitting for 2 years along with the whole car.

The car has a few scratches, a small one on the drivers door, a large scratch on the rear driver quarter (About 4 inches), one on the rear bumper, (about 3 inches) There is also some fading above the passenger side door, I'd think you could rebuff it. The driver side headlight is hazed quite a bit. There is one small scrape on the front bumper. The rear brake light has the normal crack. The front chin spoiler is pretty worn too, so that could use replacing as well. The brembo brakes black paint is also bubbling, from sitting so long. I bought the car 3 years ago and it had minor rusting on top of the roof on the passenger side, I covered it with touchup paint and the rusting did not spread at all, it still looks the same as it did when I bought it. Pictures of each imperfection included.

****Note the car has been sitting for 2 and a half years and I never washed it during that time, so the engine bay, entire car and interior are pretty dirty and needs a very good cleaning. 2 years ago prior to the clutch blowing up I attempted to clean the engine bay and sprayed the engine and blower down with degreaser and the blower paint literally melted off, you can see how the sticker is faded, and I took some of them off, so that is why the blower paint is faded. I kicked myself for doing that because it had a nice black finish to it, I was going to get it painted but then the car blew up so I didn't bother..****


Specs:

MOTOR:
Stock block, crank, rods.
JE pistons with Clevite race bearings and rings.
APR Head studs.
New oil pump kit with cryo coated gears
Moroso 7quart oil pan.
Crower stage 2 cams.
Heads have a valve job with Crower retainers and titanium valve springs.
Head cooling mod.
Compression is 9.1


EVERYTHING ELSE:
Kenne Bell 2.2 w/billetflow pulley.
Accufab TB
Fluidyne H/E
Kooks 1 5/8" Longtubes
X pipe with high flow cats.
Magnaflow Stainless Catback
JLT Intake
Diablo MAF
60lb Injectors
Aeromotive Stealth A1000 fuel system.
4pc Idler setup,
2lb lower pulley
Fluidyne Heat Exchanger
SCT Chip
Brembo calipers up front, stock rear with Baer rotors and Hawk Pads,
H&R springs

Brand New Mcleod blow proof bell housing.
Brand new Spec Stage 3 clutch (Hasn't even been broken in yet.)
Brand New Billet flywheel.
Brand New Ford racing clutch cable.
Brand New oem clutch fork.
Brand new Ford Racing TOB and Retainer sleeve.
ARP bolts for clutch and flywheel.
Liberty 26 spline clutch.
Has adjustable clutch quadrant, I forgot the brand name.
MGW Shifter
Billetflow IRS Brace.

Also, 4 brand new nitto tires were installed recently and it passed MD state inspection.
 

sleepn_sn95

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Personally I would try to find a stock one in the 15k range that is running properly. Yeah that car has a good list of mods on it but it is going to take some time and money to get it right
 

rz5.0

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I would be all over it.. pull heads have them checked out. Put them back on degree cam done

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
 

TanTop94

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Personally I would try to find a stock one in the 15k range that is running properly. Yeah that car has a good list of mods on it but it is going to take some time and money to get it right

Thanks for the input, there's a few others for sale around here but they all seem to be verts. I'm done with the vert scene haha. But you are right, Im just not sure of the amount of money would leave me still better off than buying a perfectly running cobra out right.
 

Walking Tall

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Looks like a good deal to me. But then I took a big risk with mine so I may not be the best to give advice. :)
 

Carnage281

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I dunno', I guess if you have the money and patience to be able to deal with whatever it takes to get it to run right; then I say go for it.
 

TanTop94

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I would be all over it.. pull heads have them checked out. Put them back on degree cam done

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk

And a tune lol :) any other problems you think I could run into?

Looks like a good deal to me. But then I took a big risk with mine so I may not be the best to give advice. :)

How is your cobra working out for you? If you could go back, would you do that trade again?
I dunno', I guess if you have the money and patience to be able to deal with whatever it takes to get it to run right; then I say go for it.

I guess I do have the patience, and it does help that I already have a DD mustang. A lot of knowledgable friends to help me out if need be, and a garage to keep it in haha
 

Nightmare

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mmmm this would be a tough one for me as I have the resources to do it, but would I want to sell my gt for it?
 

KillNThrill24

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I'd offer him $10k cash and point out that it's been sitting for 2 years so there are more things that will need to be replaced from sitting. Whether that be true or not doesn't matter lol when you go to look at a car you find all the flaws you possibly can and try to get the price down. Personally for 11.5 and the supporting mods I think it's a good deal, like Rz said just get the cams degreed and be on your way. I'd go look at it for sure
 

FivepointSlow

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Take it from me and [MENTION=17876]DeepList[/MENTION] who both got ****ed over by the PO and their vague and inaccurate description of the cars problems...
Just pay the extra money for a car with 0 engine problems.

I bought my car thinking I needed a $100 fuel pump... $600 into the fuel system, and $500 in replacing misc crap and cleaning out everything later it finally started...


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DeepList

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Take it from me and DeepList who both got ****ed over by the PO and their vague and inaccurate description of the cars problems...

I wouldn't say that I got "****ed over" because I paid $4k for a cobra with a clean title. It was worth it just for parts if I planned to scrap it. Aside from the idiot ****ing up the block by trying to pretend he knew how to swap a transmission... it wasn't bad overall. The other shit was small and I planned to rebuild the entire car, both inside and out, including brand new 2005 C heads... so *shrug* the only added expense I didn't plan for was buying another teksid... but whatever.

As far as this one goes... meh. His asking price is reasonable for what it is. Personally, I wouldn't pay that. I'd try and get it for somewhere in the $8k to $10k range.
 

rz5.0

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Best thing would be to get it on a lift.. take some one knowledgeable check every part he claims to be installed is there. . 4v from what I hear area notorious for ticks on the valvetrain noise. get the price down he is tired of messing with it..

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
 

Walking Tall

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How is your cobra working out for you? If you could go back, would you do that trade again?

It's good so far. I won't have a better idea of the condition of the motor until I drain the oil. I'd make it again. I got a running and driving, clean title Cobra for about $6500 invested. Even if I have to spend $5-6k on it to get everything the way I want then I'll be in good shape. If it goes as planned then I'll have a car with a rebuilt and forged motor, new paint, new top. Everything the way I want it. All for less than I could have gotten a high mileage '03. Plus it's a numbered car in a desirable color combo. Makes sense to me.
 

chris91

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Id jump on it. The mods on it alone are worth almost asking price. Get it running right and its a 17-18k car all day long.
 

TanTop94

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Well I guess the next step for me is to atleast give it a look. With a mechanic hopefully. Make sure I don't but to big of a turd
 

dutch

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I would also pass on this one, might turn into a money pit. Find something else cheap, maybe stock-ish high mileage, these cars can take it. Too many people and shops touched this thing and now nobody really knows whats going on, also had a hard life if you ask me.

Car has been sitting, which is never good. You don't know how and if it was driven with faulty tune and fuelsystem..

Other people pointed out the mods alone are worth the asking price, I'm sure the current owner knows. So there's a reason why he isn't investing just that little more to make it a 18k car again.
 

chris91

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But look at it this way. Even if he has to sink a couple grand into it, he is still well below of what this car would normally bring in good running condition.
 

dutch

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And why doesn't the current owner think of it that way?

Even if it doesn't run, who doesn't wash his car for 2 years?! common.
 

rz5.0

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This is how I got my 98 cobra. It ran like crap. A few sensors and a tune up. Ran like champ Got it super cheap. .

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chris91

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And why doesn't the current owner think of it that way?

Even if it doesn't run, who doesn't wash his car for 2 years?! common.

Sounds like someone that doesnt care about it anymore. Maybe he has other priorities in his life?
 

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