So Ive been debating on finding an 03-04 Cobra to have some fun with, my car would be kept as a daily and this would end up being my nice weekend car. Though, I dont feel like financing a 20k+ Cobra ATM, but afford to grab this up and have it paid off rather quickly. Now, if you read the CL link youll see it needs some work and probably had a hard life, is it worth it to you? Why? I need to get some outside perspectives on this car... http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/4426517267.html [h=2]2004 Mustang Cobra 2.2 KB - $11500 (College Park)[/h] 2004 Ford Mustang Cobra odometer: 64800 manual transmission title : clean I have for sale a Silver Coupe 2004 Mustang Cobra with 64k miles on it. This car currently needs a few things to be completely running again. About 4 months ago, we installed a newish long block and after starting it up for the first time, it was hesitating and dying and turns out the the fuel pump was burnt out. So I took it to a performance shop and had them install an entire new fuel system, an Aeromotive a1000 fuel system. New pump, rails, lines were installed. However, when I got the car back it would not start and they told me it was the theft system preventing the car from starting. They told me I had to get a tuner to disable it.. So I took it to Horsepower by Hermann, and he diagnosed it as not the theft system, but the entire fuel system needed to be redone because the shop previously did not do it correctly. So he redid the fuel system and the car starts and runs now. The car has a base tune just to get it to run but not drive. The car now has valve train noise on the driver side, Hermann has told me the cams were not degreed properly on the driver side head and that will need to be corrected. The car does run and idles and everything, just the valve train noise. Also, after the cams are degreed properly, a tune will be needed in order for the car to be able to be driven. CURRENTLY THE CAR HAS A REALLY ROUGH IDLE AND HESITATES TO ACCELERATE. **I do have a 4 page receipt from Hermann describing what needs to be done to the car. Everything on it pretty much reflects the above.** Now onto why the long block was replaced. 2 years ago the clutch pressure plate blew up and took out the original engine block, everything else was fine thankfully. It did, however, put one small hole (Like 2 inches) in the upper bay area, motor had to be pulled out to even see it, kind of hard to explain the location, it was welded and sprayed silver, you couldn't even tell there was a hole. Now onto somethings about the car 2 years ago I drove it in the rain and accidently shifted from 5th to 2nd gear, I fishtailed slightly and sideswiped a guard rail. No damage was done except scratches to the passenger side and headlight and rim. Brand new headlight was installed and I paid for a new paint job on that side. The whole passenger side, door, quarter, fender, front bumper and hood were painted and it cost $3,000 and is a damn good job. 1 rim does have curb rash, from the curb from the accident but all other 3 do not, they do need a good cleaning from sitting for 2 years along with the whole car. The car has a few scratches, a small one on the drivers door, a large scratch on the rear driver quarter (About 4 inches), one on the rear bumper, (about 3 inches) There is also some fading above the passenger side door, I'd think you could rebuff it. The driver side headlight is hazed quite a bit. There is one small scrape on the front bumper. The rear brake light has the normal crack. The front chin spoiler is pretty worn too, so that could use replacing as well. The brembo brakes black paint is also bubbling, from sitting so long. I bought the car 3 years ago and it had minor rusting on top of the roof on the passenger side, I covered it with touchup paint and the rusting did not spread at all, it still looks the same as it did when I bought it. Pictures of each imperfection included. ****Note the car has been sitting for 2 and a half years and I never washed it during that time, so the engine bay, entire car and interior are pretty dirty and needs a very good cleaning. 2 years ago prior to the clutch blowing up I attempted to clean the engine bay and sprayed the engine and blower down with degreaser and the blower paint literally melted off, you can see how the sticker is faded, and I took some of them off, so that is why the blower paint is faded. I kicked myself for doing that because it had a nice black finish to it, I was going to get it painted but then the car blew up so I didn't bother..**** Specs: MOTOR: Stock block, crank, rods. JE pistons with Clevite race bearings and rings. APR Head studs. New oil pump kit with cryo coated gears Moroso 7quart oil pan. Crower stage 2 cams. Heads have a valve job with Crower retainers and titanium valve springs. Head cooling mod. Compression is 9.1 EVERYTHING ELSE: Kenne Bell 2.2 w/billetflow pulley. Accufab TB Fluidyne H/E Kooks 1 5/8" Longtubes X pipe with high flow cats. Magnaflow Stainless Catback JLT Intake Diablo MAF 60lb Injectors Aeromotive Stealth A1000 fuel system. 4pc Idler setup, 2lb lower pulley Fluidyne Heat Exchanger SCT Chip Brembo calipers up front, stock rear with Baer rotors and Hawk Pads, H&R springs Brand New Mcleod blow proof bell housing. Brand new Spec Stage 3 clutch (Hasn't even been broken in yet.) Brand New Billet flywheel. Brand New Ford racing clutch cable. Brand New oem clutch fork. Brand new Ford Racing TOB and Retainer sleeve. ARP bolts for clutch and flywheel. Liberty 26 spline clutch. Has adjustable clutch quadrant, I forgot the brand name. MGW Shifter Billetflow IRS Brace. Also, 4 brand new nitto tires were installed recently and it passed MD state inspection.