It has begun!

Makoto

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to check if gaps are even get a piece of cardboard and run it down between them. If its grabbing on one side and sliding easily on the other you have your answer.

the gaps are uniform. the fronts just have 1mm more gap than the rear of the door.
 

ttocs

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I am not sure what your definition of uniform is but it doesn't really matter. My definition of "even" would mean that you have if you have 2mm gap between the rear quarter and the rear door then you would have 2mm between the front of the door and the front fender. By uniform I will assume you mean the panels are straight with the one next to it? I always thought that was just the expectation of the bare minimum and there really isn't a name for it.
 

Makoto

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well yeah, thats what your cardboard advice was after, right? overall uniformity is the goal, dragging some cardboard in a gap checks for that specific gap's uniformity.
 

Makoto

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so i noticed last night the seat was about half an inch to the left of the steering wheel. that simply will not do. to validate my theory i used a plumb bob and aligned that strip of aluminum dead center to the seat. yep, 5/8" off center.


oc1.jpgoc2.jpg

oc3.jpg

much better

oc4.jpg



oc5.jpg
 

ttocs

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I would try putting the console back in before you declare victory to be sure it will still fit if you plan to use it. I was surprised to discover when painting part of the dash that the center of the vehicle is off just a tad so that the drivers side is a little larger than the pass side by about an inch or two.
 

Makoto

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I would try putting the console back in before you declare victory to be sure it will still fit if you plan to use it. I was surprised to discover when painting part of the dash that the center of the vehicle is off just a tad so that the drivers side is a little larger than the pass side by about an inch or two.

not using the stock ugly heavy as hell console :)
 

Makoto

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did a nascar alignment and set the ride height again. it was a little low after all the body parts and glass got back on the car :D

height2.jpg

height1.jpg

time to get this front end finished and wetsand this whole mother lover for the final shootut.

frontal1.jpgfrontal2.jpg
 

Makoto

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with the header panel bolted to the fenders moving them back 1mm wasn't too bad. i like this a lot better. the tolerances for the gaps are around .25mm.
gap0.jpggap1.jpggap2.jpg
 

weendoggy

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As long as the leading edge on the door doesn't strike the fender when opening/closing, the gap looks real good.
 

Makoto

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Intake in!jlt1.jpg

minor problem...

jlt2.jpg


jlt3.jpg

that third leg had to go... so i'm thinking the other one is gettin the boot as well.

jlt4.jpg

jlt7.jpg
i mean, weight savings, right?

jlt8.jpg
 

weendoggy

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I would've left both strut support legs intact. I had a similar issue on my '02 and made new bends on one tube and relocated the other. It adds the needed support for the whole setup. Welded them up and had re-powder coated.
 

Makoto

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I would've left both strut support legs intact. I had a similar issue on my '02 and made new bends on one tube and relocated the other. It adds the needed support for the whole setup. Welded them up and had re-powder coated.
i thought about that but here's where i landed. the passenger side cant' go where it needs to so it would need to be relocated from firewall to the strut tower corner. most strut tower braces don't connect to the firewall and my firewall. they are intended to tie the strut towers together. given the thickness of the main bar i'd say that's achieved. as for the legs, the inner fenders and strut towers are seam/stitch welded in addition to the through the floor subframe connectors and MM k member with its bracing on the bottom.

i tried to find a better pick but you can kinda see the seams i welded up in this one. basically all the stuff inside the fenders. the idea being that when the chassis flexes it'll move all of that as one piece. not as good as the triangulated arms, sure, but all things considered i'm fine with it.
3.jpg
 

Makoto

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i've been experimenting with sealing the gaps in the tails and i think this just might do it...
tails4.jpgtails6.jpgtails7.jpgtales5.jpg
 

Makoto

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So my low speed fans weren't ever coming on. The engine would get over 200 degrees then the high speed fans would kick on. It was concerning but they did come on so i wasn't too terribly worried about it. Apparently that was the tune because i returned it to stock yesterday and blammo everything works as it should! She ran a little rough, a bit of a hunting idle, but it seems like she's getting better. I'm going to call around to see if i can throw it on a dyno for a quick AFR reading to make sure she's good to put the 500 break in miles before the actual tune.

oh and now i have an unmarried SCT tuner. what do these things go for?

engineclean.jpg
 

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