Joe's '94GT money pit

ttocs

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It may be, and I just overlooked it. I was thinking there was one by the motor mount but I could be wrong. I'll try to catch some videos this weekend and get it nailed down. It's supposed to be nasty this weekend, so probably a good time to get some wrenching done.
Its a good time if the garage is heated. We just got an icestorm and it is no fun in the garage now.
 
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joemomma

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Its a good time if the garage is heated. We just got an icestorm and it is no fun in the garage now.

It's not heated but I cheat a little and leave the door to the house open lol. I need to get a space heater of some sort. We got lucky here - just barely missed the ice. West and parts of middle TN got hammered sounds like. We just had a cold rain in eastern TN.
 
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joemomma

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So, I'm about where I want as far as "looks" go. Once I get this alternator whine sorted out (this weekend hopefully, I have some rare-earth magnets and that noise condenser on the way) I'm going to be ready to start on the "go fast" goodies. There are a couple of interior things that need attention, but nothing serious (floor mats, tint, and door pulls).

As far as performance goes, I'm not sure which way I want to go. This is just a nice day/weekend cruiser, but I don't want to get embarrassed should I decide to play around with another car. It seems from my reading that there are a few options:
1 - turbo it, and be done with it. Works well on a mostly stock car (which is where I currently am outside of gears/headers). Gets me to around 400 (crank?) for $2000-2500? It seems the On3 kit is the way to go, but may not be available.
2 - traditional H/C/I and associated mods (TB, MAF, etc). This route gets me to around 300rwhp, which should be plenty of fun in a 3200-ish pound car. I haven't weighed it, but that seems ballpark. This is probably around the same dollars as the turbo, but I can piece it together as funds allow.
3 - new or rebuild current block (331 or 347). This is the most expensive route, but has the biggest "upside". For $5k, you can buy a crate 347 stroker rated at 415 crank (I'm assuming that's on an engine dyno with no accessories). You're still looking at a good chunk of change for other required parts.

What's the general consensus on the best way to go? I guess it all boils down to budget and...budget.
 

07GtS197

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The problem with fi is you’re going to want more but the bottom end limits you to about 500 hp before the block splits. It’s not my money to spend but I think I’d go fi on low boost and buy a dart block to build in the meantime.


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ttocs

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Rare earth magnets? I installed car audio security for +15yrs and never heard of this for noise? Do tell.

Any reason you are not considering a supercharger? I know turbos are supposed to be more fun/efficient but if your not going for all out power personally I would probably go for a nice used vortech kit even before the new on3. Vortech has been making kits that bolt on with easy instructions and they have a proven reliability that is hard to beat, easy to tune with as well. You also would not need to do the K member which if your not going to get into racing seriously its just more money spent for bragging rights(I know this problem).
 
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joemomma

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I called them rare earth magnets. I looked the order up and they are "ferrite core cord rings". I saw them recommended in a couple of places and figured they would be worth a shot. They just snap on the power wire going to the head unit. I believe you can snap them on RCAs and such as well. They were cheap on Amazon, so I figure it's worth a shot. I've been doing audio installs for my own vehicles since the early 90s, and I've NEVER had an issue like this. I've had noise before, but I've always been able to get it taken care of. This one (that I inherited lol) is kicking my arse. And, it's some of the worst I've ever encountered.

I've always been a fan of SC - didn't think there were any kits floating around. That would certainly be an option I'd entertain.
 

ttocs

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I will be very surprised if that does anything but add weight to the car. For shits and giggles try a different audio source like your phone with a headphone to rca connector and see if it goes away. If it does its your HU and if it doesn't its further down stream and I would try a different set of rca's rant temporarily just across the seats.

you didn't know there are supercharger kit floating around?! Vortech/paxton was making kits back in the fox body days and I see 2-3 superchargers for every turbo. I actually got my vortech V3 for a great deal because the guy got it and then wrecked the car before install and kits from heavily used to mine where the HU was only unwrapped are often available. Even if its been ran hard they are rebuildable and like I said another advantage is you can keep the stock K member to save some money.
 
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joemomma

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I will be very surprised if that does anything but add weight to the car. For shits and giggles try a different audio source like your phone with a headphone to rca connector and see if it goes away. If it does its your HU and if it doesn't its further down stream and I would try a different set of rca's rant temporarily just across the seats.

you didn't know there are supercharger kit floating around?! Vortech/paxton was making kits back in the fox body days and I see 2-3 superchargers for every turbo. I actually got my vortech V3 for a great deal because the guy got it and then wrecked the car before install and kits from heavily used to mine where the HU was only unwrapped are often available. Even if its been ran hard they are rebuildable and like I said another advantage is you can keep the stock K member to save some money.

I actually just replaced the HU (it was an old Eclipse from '96) with a new Alpine, and the noise is still there. I also ran three new sets of RCA cables when I replaced the HU - I thought that could be the source of the noise. They are all three quality RCAs so I don't think it's a source issue. At this point I think it has to be a bad ground somewhere. I have that Big 3 kit but I haven't had a chance to install it yet.

In regards to the SC, I guess I just didn't look that hard lol. I knew they were around back in the day, but all I see everyone talk about now is a turbo. I guess that's the new hotness. I did see a few kits on eBay at lunch, I see they are still proud of them lol.
 
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joemomma

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So looping back around to Vortechs - it seems they only add 80HP? Did I read that right? For some reason I was expecting more.
 

ttocs

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I thought that sounded low till you remember the stock hp was only 225, so that is a 35% gain in hp which is about average for supercharger power. The stock heads are also a big choke point in the motor, swap them out for something that flows better and you will see a bigger gain.
 
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joemomma

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I thought that sounded low till you remember the stock hp was only 225, so that is a 35% gain in hp which is about average for supercharger power. The stock heads are also a big choke point in the motor, swap them out for something that flows better and you will see a bigger gain.

Yeah I knew the heads were the big issue with the stock motors. I guess there's only so much air you can move through there with the heads choking everything. Makes sense that you'd see bigger power gains with other supporting mods. This REALLY makes me want to get cracking on upgrades. But, I have to wonder, by the time you get a SC/H/C/I, you're almost at crate stroker motor money (even assuming buying used). Maybe the sweet spot would be SC/H only, and then add other upgrades later. I think the first order of business is going to be intake (I'm leaning Exploder as that seems to be the most budget-friendly option). I'm trying to remember this is a budget build lol....that, and I don't want to have to sleep in it. I keep throwing money at this thing and the boss may kick me out! She's not a big fan of the car anyway lol.
 

ttocs

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I added trickflow heads and stage 1 cam and a ported cobra intake/full exhaust first and was happy with the performance gain that was supposed to put me close to 300 hp. A few years later I found a good deal on a vortech V3 that I have not added and I have seen people with similar builds showing well over 400 hp when tuned correctly. I am still running the stock bottom end but it will get upgraded sooner or later as well.
 
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joemomma

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That seems like a good way to go. Honestly, I just don't want to get embarrassed by a minivan at a stoplight. Obviously in it's current state with gears, that shouldn't be an issue but you catch my drift.
 

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Just went through your build thread. Great work! Reminds me of all the stuff I did when I had just gotten mine. I agree with your statement "maybe the sweet spot would be SC/H only".
Upgrading from the E7s to any aluminum head will net a 50lb weight savings off the front end along with anywhere from 30-80hp depending on cylinder head choice. Some budget based heads would be something like ProMaxx, BluePrint, GT40X, Edelbrock E-Street, AFR Enforcer, all in the $1000 range. Really the only reason to keep the E7s would be A) You just love running Factory Ford Iron heads and want the bragging rights, B) you're restricted by class rules to run E7s, C) You're off your rocker like I am. Seriously, everyone on any Mustang forum is gonna tell you that you have two boat anchors bolted on to your engine.
But wait! Ask yourself this question: what is fast for me? Seriously think about what you consider fast. I gave my neighbor a ride in my bolt-on Fox Mustang and it was scary for him. Said he'd rather stick with his Sentra. Now, that Mustang was barely making about 250hp/285ft.lbs. If your performance goals are "just don't want to get embarrassed by a minivan at a stoplight", I'd start looking into maximizing the power that you currently have in terms of suspension upgrades. The factory 5.0L engine has major potential as it sits if you can bring out that potential through chassis tuning. Imagine you bring a car that has an extra 100hp to the line with no suspension upgrades against mine that has a stock engine and built suspension. Who will have a better chance at maximizing their acceleration? What many people don't take into consideration when wanting to add horsepower is physics. A car that can't plant the power to the ground will just blow the tires off with throttle tip in. If you felt a Mustang dead hook making a measly 300ftlbs you'd understand where I'm coming from.
 
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joemomma

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Thanks! I read through yours as well - good stuff!

I agree - "fast" is different to everyone. I've certainly ridden in and/or driven "fast" cars. And I can confirm what you say - when a Fox or similar with 300 to the tires launches, it is amazing. Something that light with a proper suspension setup and just a little power is VERY impressive. Two cars that really stand out in my mind with regards to being "fast" - a friend in HS had a built Fox. It was N/A but had forged internals, gears, all the typical stuff and it was nasty quick. The other car is my nephew's old CTS-V 6-speed couple. I think it was running 540-ish to the tires at the time, but had as much if not more done in suspension/brake work. He was also running a massive tire out back. To this day, it's probably the fastest "street" car I've ever been in. It didn't even turn the tires over when we took off - it just hooked and we went. It was insane.

With that said, I don't anticipate this car ever being like that, at least not with my current budget in mind. I would like to get it respectable, though! I figure in the 300 wheel ballpark should be more than enough, at least for right now. I can always get crazy down the road. My guess is that I'll just end up piecing stuff together here and there and building as I go. I have a hard time saving for the "big ticket" when I can get several smaller upgrades, even though the sum total won't be the same. If that makes sense.
 
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joemomma

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Also - over the weekend I got the noise condenser installed, along with the engine to chassis and battery to chassis grounds. I just added 1/0 gauge wires in addition to the existing cables. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't terribly fun either. I also installed those ferrite core things to the RCA inputs at the amp.

And, I still have noise.

At this point, I'm thinking it's in the power coming in to the HU. I'm not sure what else it could be, honestly. I'm also not sure what else to try.
 

sluggish94

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I have a hard time saving for the "big ticket" when I can get several smaller upgrades, even though the sum total won't be the same. If that makes sense.

I suffer from this as well. I'd rather have fun doing bolt ons and drive the car the same day of an install then to have the car sitting for 6 months waiting for all the good stuff. This is actually the reason I got Dirty Money. I couldn't wait to finish my Fox so I had to get another toy to scratch that itch.

If you're thinking about doing a bunch of bolt-ons, I'd do everything that can be done without removing heads/intake/timing cover, and while you do all the little simple stuff, be on the market for an HCI combination. Then do the H/C/I all in one shot so that you don't double pay for any gaskets. That should keep the performance side of the build busy for a while and give you time for planning out the H/C/I.
 

ttocs

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I thought I saw you had an eclipse deck? There was a problem with pioneer radios that if you connected the rca's, powered up the deck and then let them ground out there was a little fuse called a pico fuse that would blow and then you would have noise in the system. A common way to fix this was to ground the outer shield of the rcas and the noise would go away. Try taking a small piece of wire and grounding it out, and then touch it to a portion of the larger round circle portion of the connector and see if it goes away.
 
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joemomma

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I thought I saw you had an eclipse deck? There was a problem with pioneer radios that if you connected the rca's, powered up the deck and then let them ground out there was a little fuse called a pico fuse that would blow and then you would have noise in the system. A common way to fix this was to ground the outer shield of the rcas and the noise would go away. Try taking a small piece of wire and grounding it out, and then touch it to a portion of the larger round circle portion of the connector and see if it goes away.

I did have an Eclipse, but I replaced it a week or so ago with a new Alpine unit to get BT/hands-free. I may not have mentioned that in the build here - I forget what I put where sometimes lol. I'll give that a shot this weekend if I mess with it. I need to get everything cleaned up this weekend, it's finally going to be nice. I need to get the salt off everything. We've had a good bit of winter weather this year and the salt is heavy!

Plans may change with the car, but as of right now, I'm still in the market for bolt-ons.
 

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